Who here owns a Subaru?

I've got one... but not really used it. I haven't even got around to dowloading my map or anything :(

One of the guys on here maps his own though so I'm sure he'll tell you all about it.
 
ScoobyDoo69 said:
I'm not surprised by the sounds of things!
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Soulja said:
I knew Bradford was a bit if a dodgy place but I didn't know how dodgy :p thanks for the replies guys, you might of saved me from buying a dud!
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I was buying and selling cars on the side as a bit of a pass time. Didn't make a lot to be honest as it was so difficult to get shot of them so on a few decided to break even.

A lot of viewings but I feel the city gives a reputation of, 'ok I'll buy it but for cheap as chips, because loldrugs.' Bradford/Some parts of Birmingham, I'd avoid. I got my ATR from Birm from an Asian, never to trust an Asian again. That car was utterly great, and terrible at the same time.

Have a mate who's done well selling replica Scoobs. Seems to get them shifted on the bay quite quickly. Makes a nice profit on them.
 
Tested with fault reader tonight found boost solenoid fault but I think that was logged when my ECU kicked in fail safe mode and started limiting me to 8psi, should I turn boost down on the controller or is it that the solenoid can't handle the extra boost the controller allows and thus I may need a new one?
 
Tom|Nbk said:
Tested with fault reader tonight found boost solenoid fault but I think that was logged when my ECU kicked in fail safe mode and started limiting me to 8psi, should I turn boost down on the controller or is it that the solenoid can't handle the extra boost the controller allows and thus I may need a new one?
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Did you say that you were controlling the boost without a remap? You can get away with that on a classic (you don't have a choice except on the very last UK ones from 2000) but not on a newage. You have a newage, yes? Almost certainly the higher boost is triggering an error because the map is not able to deal with the extra boost correctly. Endless possibilities: over-fuelling, under-fuelling, etc etc. Disconnect the new boost controller, and leave it off until you can get the car mapped at the same time. After you've started and stopped the engine a few times the limp-home mode should cancel and give you back normal performance.
 
That's exactly what I thought is happening I've no idea how to disconnect it, can I not just turn the boost controller all the way down?
 
You can turn it all the way down, but then you could end up with a slow car.

You currently don't know what it is doing in terms of ECU map etc. Where are you located?

Does the car have a boost gauge fitted?

To take the MBC off normally requires replacing the pipework that was taken out to begin with and that pipework normally has a restrictor pill in one of the pipes.

Get some pics of the engine bay, location of the MBC, and all the associated pipework. Gives us something to look at and advise for.
 
He's right: you may have had all the plumbing changed. Most after-market boost controllers use three-port boost solenoids, but Subaru use a two port one. The piping may still be there (it's under that silly black cover back left as you look into the engine bay from the front), but it will probably be disconnected. My serious advice is that you take it to a mapper/engineer who knows what he is doing. My personal advice would be Paul Blamire (Zen Performance), who's in Northamptonshire, but I'm sure others will be suggested. Carnetix are in Melton Mobray, but I'm not sure how good they are (they're a load of ex-TSL people). When Duncan Graham gets listed, I'll point out that Paul Blamire trained him...
 
For the minute I'm not so bothered about mapping it, finances won't allow quite yet I'd like to remove the boost controller but keep the boost gauge so I'll have to look into this..
 
Boost controller removed! After doing some research online I found that all my original turbo plumbing was there and unmolested it was just a simple job of hooking it back up to the stock boost solenoid controller, thank god. So I'm back to a safe stock psi of just under 15 which I'm more comfortable with until I can afford a proper map.
 
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ScoobyDoo69 said:
So pretty much what I suggested you did... right? :D
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Well you advised replacing pipework so I was a bit wary of having a go myself, found a picture of the stock turbo plumbing and it was a simple case of 'connect the dots' :D

Feel better knowing the car isn't being force fed boost unwillingly :p
 
Tom|Nbk said:
Has anyone had experience with a tactrix cable then?
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Yes and they are fantastic if you are willing to read a bit and put time into testing/logging to see what happens with each and every change.
It really isn't a case of pushing up the boost, maxing out wastegate and fettling timing, there is much more to it but is really satisfying when you can get your car safely blasting up the road at a much increased rate of knots knowing you did it.

It also helps you understand the engine more so when things aren't quite right, you have more insight to what causes it, is loose/split vac pipes etc.
 
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