Rear seatbelt clips was a metallic~ish rattle for me on mine
Who owns a Mondeo ST220 / ST TDCI?
- Thread starter Howard
- Start date
Rear seatbelt clips was a metallic~ish rattle for me on mine
The only real exterior metallic rattle I've had has been the brake pads. I also recently sorted out the rattle from the boot which sounded more plasticy which was the boot latch - I loosened the bolts holding the striker plate and moved it down a bit to make it a bit of a tighter fit which cured it. I guess you could look at that also.
Otherwise just get underneath the rear and check that the heatshields (the mounting areas on these like to corrode and they come loose) and give all of the ARB drop links and suspension components a good tug to make sure they're not knocking/clonking.
Is it loud? Can you get a recording?
Otherwise just get underneath the rear and check that the heatshields (the mounting areas on these like to corrode and they come loose) and give all of the ARB drop links and suspension components a good tug to make sure they're not knocking/clonking.
Is it loud? Can you get a recording?
I posted this in the 'what have you done to your car today?' thread but I thought you lot might find it interesting...
I used this guide as a reference to achieve this:
No idea why Ford didn't have the Mondeo do this from the factory like their other cars do, but hey ho. Works nicely and adds an extra little bit of cool factor
I used this guide as a reference to achieve this:
No idea why Ford didn't have the Mondeo do this from the factory like their other cars do, but hey ho. Works nicely and adds an extra little bit of cool factor
Soldato
Cool mod. I'd probably disable it on really cold days though. I've had mine stuck in position before after getting iced up (probably why Ford didn't do it themselves).
Last part for my new stereo came yesterday (the cage) but it was missing screws and instructions. Came with couple extra copper bits of metal too which act as the clip but no idea how to fix them on properly.
What are the spongy pads for?
Last part for my new stereo came yesterday (the cage) but it was missing screws and instructions. Came with couple extra copper bits of metal too which act as the clip but no idea how to fix them on properly.
What are the spongy pads for?
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Yes I was thinking of adding a hidden switch to disable it in the depths of winter, but then if other car manufacturers can do it why can't Ford?
Spongy pads and clips - pass... Pics?
Spongy pads and clips - pass... Pics?
Soldato
The kit looks like this one except for the missing screws:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/T1-Audio-T1-23UN02-Universal-Supplied/dp/B002OJEH6S/
There's a better image of the copper looking clip plates on this page:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Celsus-ACG5041-Radio-Cage-Fitting/dp/B004V895LM/
I removed the old stereo last night which came out easy enough and wired the mic in behind the dash which was also straightforward.
Also fitted the new head unit surround and tested the new stereo with it just sitting on my lap. Bluetooth and steering wheel controls all worked great but couldn't test radio reception due to the aerial not fitting so guess I need an adaptor for that also.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/T1-Audio-T1-23UN02-Universal-Supplied/dp/B002OJEH6S/
There's a better image of the copper looking clip plates on this page:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Celsus-ACG5041-Radio-Cage-Fitting/dp/B004V895LM/
I removed the old stereo last night which came out easy enough and wired the mic in behind the dash which was also straightforward.
Also fitted the new head unit surround and tested the new stereo with it just sitting on my lap. Bluetooth and steering wheel controls all worked great but couldn't test radio reception due to the aerial not fitting so guess I need an adaptor for that also.
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Soldato
I'm contemplating to get a Bluefin for my car. I then again, am thinking twice about it.
I was thinking along the lines of possibly a decat/bluefin. What should I do?
I was thinking along the lines of possibly a decat/bluefin. What should I do?
Brace yourself for injector failure
Soldato
What if they've already been replaced (I'm guessing?).
No in all seriousness, is it worth it? I've been told that the bluefin isn't that aggressive a map.
Soldato
Chipping will give moderate (but not world changing) improvements. Given the potential bill it could present in terms of increased risk of component failure, and the value of an ST vs. the value of a replacement equivalent car, I personally wouldn't bother.
Yes, I haven't chipped mine for these very reasons.
Look at it like overclocking - one of the golden rules of overclocking is not to overclock anything you can't afford to replace. Why should it be different for cars?
Yes, I haven't chipped mine for these very reasons.
Look at it like overclocking - one of the golden rules of overclocking is not to overclock anything you can't afford to replace. Why should it be different for cars?
I wouldn't. You bought the diesel presumably because of your mileage and the need for an economical car. Things will just break even sooner than they will anyway if you push it further than it's designed to go.
Soldato
Anyone ever took off the front bumper? Mine could be doing with a tidy up. Got that crack from my off roading the other week and my driveway is taking its toll on the underside of the bumper.
Where to get the best PB spray paint from to? Halfords don't sell it on the shelf.
Where to get the best PB spray paint from to? Halfords don't sell it on the shelf.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genui...rts_SM&fits=Car+Make:Ford&hash=item1c1f324bff
Taking the front bumper off involves removing a load of screws under the front - I tried and failed once! They were slightly corroded and rounded off :/
Taking the front bumper off involves removing a load of screws under the front - I tried and failed once! They were slightly corroded and rounded off :/
Soldato
You'll want a torx bit, I think they're T30's from memory. Either a stubby driver or a flexi-driver are really helpful.
I think the most helpful thing for me if I ever need to fully remove my front bumper will be a cutting wheel.
The bigger bolts going into the subframe are torx heads and they'll come out fine, it's the little philips head screws into the metal retainers in the plastic for the undertray, corner of the arches and whatnot that you'll be buggered with.
The bigger bolts going into the subframe are torx heads and they'll come out fine, it's the little philips head screws into the metal retainers in the plastic for the undertray, corner of the arches and whatnot that you'll be buggered with.
Soldato
Cheers Howard, grabbed one.
Ill sort it.
Ill sort it.
Soldato
I guess you're right. I wouldn't mind a little bit more power, but at the consequence of a part going belly up. I rather not take the risk. Especially with Injectors/DMF issues.
Instead I'll put the money towards maintenance/repair that would be the sensible thing to do.
Out of interest, the puddle lights/lights in the footwell are all 501 types? I'm wanting to fit leds to illuminate everything in a 10 mile radius.
Yup. Same as the glovebox light. Interior courtesy lights are wedge type, front map lights are 501 type, rear map lights are little bayonet type, mirror puddle lights are 501 type, number plate lights are wedge type.
Old pics hence lack of private plate and other random bits. Also excuse the slightly off white balance courtesy of the camera, the lights all look the same temperature in real life.
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Soldato
Any rough idea on the length of the wedge types? What is the MAP?
Dunno, 10-12mm
Map lights are the two lights operated by separate switches either side of the main courtesy lights in the roof
Map lights are the two lights operated by separate switches either side of the main courtesy lights in the roof