Soldato
I hardly ever see a motorway - maybe 10-15% of my total mileage.
Do your fronts wear evenly? Mine don't - the inside treads are about 2mm shallower.
Do your fronts wear evenly? Mine don't - the inside treads are about 2mm shallower.
Who owns a Mondeo ST220 / ST TDCI?
- Thread starter Howard
- Start date
I guess that explains the 10k! I do tend to drive quite sedately on my daily commute though which helps... Much to the annoyance of half the people in this thread the last time I mentioned it.. 
They seem to wear evenly, although I can't remember checking in the last couple of months. Will have a peek when I go home shortly. I had the alignment checked not long ago too.
They seem to wear evenly, although I can't remember checking in the last couple of months. Will have a peek when I go home shortly. I had the alignment checked not long ago too.
Soldato
Yeah I'm going to get alignment checked after I get these new tyres.
Just checked, looks to me like they're wearing about as evenly as can be expected to the naked eye. 
Soldato
Really need to get sorting the camshaft bearing out on my engine. The rattle is getting louder at times.
Where would i buy these parts from? No sites list it. Ring ford and get bummed jobbie?
Also, i have big hands. Will i be able to get to the bolt around the back of the manifold if i took off the strut bar? Had the strut bar off before to get easier access to the vac pipe and it does give you 2cm more room round the back of the engine.
Where would i buy these parts from? No sites list it. Ring ford and get bummed jobbie?
Also, i have big hands. Will i be able to get to the bolt around the back of the manifold if i took off the strut bar? Had the strut bar off before to get easier access to the vac pipe and it does give you 2cm more room round the back of the engine.
Ford are the best place for parts like that. I doubt they'll be too bad. Have you confirmed this to be the problem?
As for the manifold, removing it is fiddly (following the guides) but it isn't as bad as everyone makes out. It's just a case of getting to the nuts and bolts behind it (ring spanner with a bit of string tied to it, and the other end tied to your wrist in case you drop it) and working slowly and methodically to remove the bolts and vacuum pipes and other crap. Removing the strut bracing takes 2 mins anyway.
As for the manifold, removing it is fiddly (following the guides) but it isn't as bad as everyone makes out. It's just a case of getting to the nuts and bolts behind it (ring spanner with a bit of string tied to it, and the other end tied to your wrist in case you drop it) and working slowly and methodically to remove the bolts and vacuum pipes and other crap. Removing the strut bracing takes 2 mins anyway.
Soldato
Will ring them on Monday.
Yeah it is definitely the problem. (i hope
)
Yeah it is definitely the problem. (i hope
)
Soldato
Car all sorted now . £90 for the part, £40 to get it fitted, job's a good un!
I've got a growing urge to sort out my auto belt tensioner. The more I drive with the window down, the more the occasional rattle when I accelerate hard bugs me!
Maybe I'll just lend my car to Howard for a week and he can sort all the trivial things for me.
. £90 for the part, £40 to get it fitted, job's a good un!I've got a growing urge to sort out my auto belt tensioner. The more I drive with the window down, the more the occasional rattle when I accelerate hard bugs me!
Maybe I'll just lend my car to Howard for a week and he can sort all the trivial things for me
.
Soldato
I have said same before. Wish he was local lol.
Soldato
Hmmm, on the topic of my mystery rattle, I've been doing some research this evening.
Symptoms:
- Rattle from front of car when accelerating hard, only occurs whilst revs are changing.
- Very occasionally, when starting from cold, I get a vibration/resonance from the front of the car, which goes away if I just rev the engine hard once or twice - it won't come back for days of weeks afterwards.
Research seems to be pointing me at one of 3 things, but I've no idea how to narrow it down further.
1) Auxiliary belt tensioner
2) Timing belt tensioner
3) Timing belt pulley
Any thoughts or other suggestions on this? It'll be 10 years old at the next service so belts will need doing anyways - prime time to sort this I reckon (November/December).
Cheers!
Symptoms:
- Rattle from front of car when accelerating hard, only occurs whilst revs are changing.
- Very occasionally, when starting from cold, I get a vibration/resonance from the front of the car, which goes away if I just rev the engine hard once or twice - it won't come back for days of weeks afterwards.
Research seems to be pointing me at one of 3 things, but I've no idea how to narrow it down further.
1) Auxiliary belt tensioner
2) Timing belt tensioner
3) Timing belt pulley
Any thoughts or other suggestions on this? It'll be 10 years old at the next service so belts will need doing anyways - prime time to sort this I reckon (November/December).
Cheers!
Lol I'm not a million miles away from you
Does the car drive normally or feel otherwise fine? Does it happen often enough to get a recording?
Vibration when starting from cold almost sounds like a misfire but that'd be more of a shudder.
I'd probably start by replacing the aux belt/tensioners/pulleys (comes as a kit as far as I know) as they'll need doing soon as you said. I guess it could be the same problem that Rybo is having too with the cam bearings
Does the car drive normally or feel otherwise fine? Does it happen often enough to get a recording?
Vibration when starting from cold almost sounds like a misfire but that'd be more of a shudder.
I'd probably start by replacing the aux belt/tensioners/pulleys (comes as a kit as far as I know) as they'll need doing soon as you said. I guess it could be the same problem that Rybo is having too with the cam bearings
Soldato
Not often enough to record, no. It's definitely not a misfire, the engine is silky smooth.
I was hoping to exhaust all other possibilities, as it looks like the items rack up a cost pretty quickly!!
I've got to say I'm really surprised at Rybo's issue, never heard of any cam bearing problems on these before and I thought it was a really slow wearing part?
I was hoping to exhaust all other possibilities, as it looks like the items rack up a cost pretty quickly!!
I've got to say I'm really surprised at Rybo's issue, never heard of any cam bearing problems on these before and I thought it was a really slow wearing part?
Soldato
Picked up that wing today for £70. It's got a few little problems of it's own but should be a lot easier to sort out than my current wing. Won't be able to tell if all of it needs painting again until it's on.
Soldato
Slightly off-topic, but what have people moved on to after their ST220's?
Mine is at 98k, and I'm having the internal debate as to whether (next year) I move it on before it throws any big bills my way, or whether I keep it on the basis that I know it's a solid car, and even having clutch/dmf/tensioner work done on it, although costly relative to the car's resale value, is a small price to keep a solid car running.
Having looked around, things that compare to the ST220 but are a "step up" in either performance or luxury command a massive price hike (BMW 328, Audi A5, etc etc).
Mine is at 98k, and I'm having the internal debate as to whether (next year) I move it on before it throws any big bills my way, or whether I keep it on the basis that I know it's a solid car, and even having clutch/dmf/tensioner work done on it, although costly relative to the car's resale value, is a small price to keep a solid car running.
Having looked around, things that compare to the ST220 but are a "step up" in either performance or luxury command a massive price hike (BMW 328, Audi A5, etc etc).
I was wondering this a while back as you may have seen. I considered things like hot hatches and convertibles as well as things like BMW E46s and E39s, but mine's on 98k also and it's in fine condition, so I think I'm just going to run it until I can comfortably afford enough for something better, or different should my needs change. I may just end up with a more modern "equivalent" - Octavia VRS or something like that. I don't have the money to change at the moment though so I'm not thinking about it.
With regards to repair costs, the car's value is irrelevant until you've got it on the market for sale.
With regards to repair costs, the car's value is irrelevant until you've got it on the market for sale.
Soldato
Couldn't agree more, hence my dilemma!
Soldato
I think I read someone moved up to a Merc AMG - can't remember which one specifically but it sounded like a considerable step up at the time.
I can't see me getting rid of mine anytime soon. I may get a 2nd car though at some point down the line. Something a lot smaller like a Z4M/Suzuki Swift Sport (2012)/Fiesta ST (2013) and leave the ST220 for longer journeys or when I need the space.
Mine's only on 54k miles.
I can't see me getting rid of mine anytime soon. I may get a 2nd car though at some point down the line. Something a lot smaller like a Z4M/Suzuki Swift Sport (2012)/Fiesta ST (2013) and leave the ST220 for longer journeys or when I need the space.
Mine's only on 54k miles.
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Associate
Well my ST TDCI has gone in today to have the aux belt, tensioner etc. done. Hopefully this will sort my aircon finally.
Now at 120k miles so I'm not that surprised the belt needs changing!
Now at 120k miles so I'm not that surprised the belt needs changing!
Soldato
How much is that setting you back if you don't mind sharing Ringiho?
Associate
Well the original cost was around £300 I believe but I've just had another call. Bad news! The issue with the aircon is caused by the cooling fan not kicking in, the ECU controlling it is faulty.
New cost....... £940
New cost....... £940