World first QD-OLED monitor from Dell and Samsung (34 inch Ultrawide 175hz)

That's correct:

57SOhMi.png

Mauller said:
I have my screen set to 25% brightness in SDR, i think that puts it in the 75 - 80 NIT range according to vincents chart, where 41% correlated to 100Nits.
But i am often sat in front of the screen for a good number of hours working so it feels more comfortable on the eyes. Makes a word document almost feel like looking at paper instead of a screen.
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Yep that's fair enough, this side of things is down to individual preference really so if it's comfortable for your eyes then that brightness is fine.
 
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Mauller said:
Anyone know any good applications for testing VRR flicker, some people have been saying that the DP cable that comes with the display is not up to the job. So could be the cause. I remember hearing about this on some other monitors a while ago.

I have been using my own DP cable with the screen since installing it and not noticed VRR flicker.
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This was created especially for LG OLEDs: https://github.com/MattTS01/VRR_Flicker_Test_OpenGL/releases (2nd link)

But be aware that you will likely see flicker for the first time, since this was already tested on this monitor and flicker was observed.
 
mrk said:
That's correct:

57SOhMi.png



Yep that's fair enough, this side of things is down to individual preference really so if it's comfortable for your eyes then that brightness is fine.
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100nits is about the right level for eye comfort when viewing a full screen white page or image in an average lit environment (like an office) - obviously it will not be bright enough if you had direct sun glare over the screen or something
 
muhkuh said:
This was created especially for LG OLEDs: https://github.com/MattTS01/VRR_Flicker_Test_OpenGL/releases (2nd link)

But be aware that you will likely see flicker for the first time, since this was already tested on this monitor and flicker was observed.
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Ah Cheers bud.

Also on another note for people that haven't got it working, or didn't realise it was a thing. You can Get 2560x1440P video from Netflix if the show has a UHD version.

But to do it you need to get the HEVC Codec from the microsoft store and install it (is 79p, but thats nothing overall).

Then to get netflix to verify your system and enabled UHD content, you have to enable HDR in windows the play a HDR show to get the netflix app to trust your system for playing back higher than 1080p content.

To check if you have it working hold cntrl + alt + shift + D and you will get the netflix (nerd) info overlay.

Should show up like this if it all worked.

Kfs1icL.png

The "Status = TrustEstablished" in VideoDiag tells you that it verified the video chain and has enabled HDR + UHD content.

You can switch back to SDR mode and still get 1440p video playing back in supporting shows at this point if you don't want HDR enabled all the time.
 
TNA said:
Ah shame. Thought as much, which is why I cancelled as I did not fancy the potential hassle if it turned out to be the case. Hope the return process goes smoothly for you.

Hopefully we get the real deal in 3-4 weeks time.
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Hope so too, if not, I'll kick up even more of a fuss and let amex deal with it :p
 
I think they will arrive next day once shipped, guess they cba to change estimated delivery date at the moment.

My pending payment on Amex has dropped off, so hope when they do take payment the offer triggers again as it should do for the £100 back.
 
Noice, hopefully you guys get your screens sooner than later.

When mine went to dispatched it turned up the next day, but it was coming from the Netherlands at the time.

Also tried that vrr flicker test, it is there but I didn't notice it at first since it seemed quite mild to me. Wonder if it could also come down to DP cable quality. With the supplied one not really up to the job. (used My own DP cable since connecting the thing)

But I also jsut run mine at 144hz for 10bit colour.
 
Mauller said:
Noice, hopefully you guys get your screens sooner than later.

When mine went to dispatched it turned up the next day, but it was coming from the Netherlands at the time.

Also tried that vrr flicker test, it is there but I didn't notice it at first since it seemed quite mild to me. Wonder if it could also come down to DP cable quality. With the supplied one not really up to the job. (used My own DP cable since connecting the thing)

But I also jsut run mine at 144hz for 10bit colour.
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Some people are also more sensitive to it than others.
 
mrk said:
That's correct:

57SOhMi.png



Yep that's fair enough, this side of things is down to individual preference really so if it's comfortable for your eyes then that brightness is fine.
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What's better - RGB or YCbCr 4:4:4?

To everyone who ordered and DIDN'T receive a monitor - What's your current delivery date showing? I know people had delay emails and then futher delay emails.

Mine says revised ship date: April 6th and revised arrival: April 22nd?!
 
VincentHanna said:
What's better - RGB or YCbCr 4:4:4?

To everyone who ordered and DIDN'T receive a monitor - What's your current delivery date showing? I know people had delay emails and then futher delay emails.

Mine says revised ship date: April 6th and revised arrival: April 22nd?!
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Ship date 4th of May, arrival date is the following day.
 
VincentHanna said:
What's better - RGB or YCbCr 4:4:4?
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RGB Full. Unless you have a specific need to control the colour range output from the GPU, then RGB is all that's needed (which is also the default values).

From madVR's FAQ:

Windows internally always "thinks" in RGB 0-255. Windows considers black to be 0 and white to be 255. That applies to the desktop, applications, games and videos. Windows itself never really thinks in terms of YCbCr or 16-235. Windows does know that videos might be YCbCr or 16-235, but still, all rendering is always done at RGB 0-255. (The exception proves the rule.)

So if you switch your GPU control panel to RGB 0-255, the GPU receives RGB 0-255 from Windows, and sends RGB 0-255 to the TV. Consequently, the GPU doesn't have to do any colorspace (RGB -> YCbCr) or range (0-255 -> 16-235) conversions. This is the best setup, because the GPU won't damage our precious pixels.

If you switch your GPU control panel to RGB 16-235, the GPU receives RGB 0-255 from Windows, but you ask the GPU to send 16-235 to the TV. Consequently, the GPU has to stretch the pixel data behind Windows' back in such a way that a black pixel is no longer 0, but now 16. And a white pixel is no longer 255, but now 235. So the pixel data is condensed from 0-255 to 16-235, and all the values between 0-15 and 236-255 are basically unused. Some GPU drivers might do this in high bitdepth with dithering, which may produce acceptable results. But some GPU drivers definitely do this in 8bit without any dithering which will introduce lots of nasty banding artifacts into the image. As a result I cannot recommend this configuration.

If you switch your GPU control panel to YCbCr, the GPU receives RGB from Windows, but you ask the GPU to send YCbCr to the TV. Consequently, the GPU has to convert the RGB pixels behind Windows' back to YCbCr. Some GPU drivers might do this in high bitdepth with dithering, which may produce acceptable results. But some GPU drivers definitely do this in 8bit without any dithering which will introduce lots of nasty banding artifacts into the image. Furthermore, there are various different RGB <-> YCbCr matrixes available. E.g. there's one each for BT.601, BT.709 and BT.2020. Now which of these will the GPU use for the conversion? And which will the TV use to convert back to RGB? If the GPU and the TV use different matrixes, color errors will be introduced. As a result I cannot recommend this configuration.

Summed up: In order to get the best possible image quality, I strongly recommend to set your GPU control panel to RGB Full (0-255).
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VincentHanna said:
What's better - RGB or YCbCr 4:4:4?
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RGB is better if you are considering anything but print.

It handles dark and light scenes better than YCbCr, you also have to encode/compress the RGB signal into YCbCr just to have it decoded again at the display end. adding some latency.


My system also appears to be working now for putting the monitor to sleep. No idea why that wasn't working or how it corrected itself.
 
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