World first QD-OLED monitor from Dell and Samsung (34 inch Ultrawide 175hz)

Where do these numbers come from (NITS)? Mine is showing 1060 HDR1000 and 440 on the 400.

IS that pulling from the calibration on windows HDR tool?

I think that it must be taking the maximum brightness from the tone map, then as you adjust the calibration, so it adjusts that value.

I mean how can software measure the actual brightness of a screen? That's just not possible.
 
Rtings full review of the Samsung G8 QD-OLED is up https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/samsung/odyssey-oled-g8-g85sb-s34bg85 They just have a thing about these panels and ambient light, as they say the same about the televisions, but I've not noticed any purple tinting at all..
The purple look is from the lack of a polarizer if I remember right, depending on the light tone that hits the screen, a hue of purple is seen. It was not included because it reduces the brightness level of the QD-OLEDs compared to normal OLED. So depending on where your screen is located and where your general lighting is, you may never experience the issue at all, whilst in some other cases, it's super obvious.
 
Rtings state this within the review but even my Samsung q90r TV will give off a rainbow coloured reflection in strong sunlight hitting the screen due to the moth's eye filter. I work in a room with my G8 right next to a window which has venetian blinds. Sunlight does come through the blinds though and my blacks are black.
 
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Rtings state this within the review but even my Samsung q90r TV will give off a rainbow coloured reflection in strong sunlight hitting the screen due to the moth's eye filter. I work in a room with my G8 right next to a window which has venetian blinds. Sunlight does come through the blinds though and my blacks are black.
You likely have little to worry about to be honest. :)

From the tests they've done and shown in the "reflections" section, from what I can tell looking at the images, comparing the AW3423DW to the AW3423DWF I have in front of me (that they use for those average room shots); using the central arm holder which is the same colour on both (black, or black without any direct light on them), as it's white on the exterior of the DW and it's black on the F so can't compare those (and the DW white is more reflective). It clear that it really is more of a VERY bright office room or outside daylight (at noon) in a pure white almost reflective room (check out that table it's on they're using, it's reflective as a mirror, one of the reasons I dinged the MSI for that RGB bar at the bottom) that is causing the raised blacks on the screen by reflecting it "towards" the screen itself. Basically, it's everything that can be done to reflect light onto a screen, and not just any light, but very strong light and it also has a red hue.

A VERY unrealistic scenario given users of this monitor know very well what needs to be done to prevent issues; given if you just want to game or normal office work, you don't go QD-OLED, you go for the other screens. And in most cases, not even most offices are THAT bright, white and reflective. And in those cases, don't use a white light that is more on the lower end of the K scale.

So in your case, you're unlikely to see it, because unless if you open the blinds AND paint your ENTIRE room white (pure, and using a more reflective kind of paint), our screens (not just the Samsung) is unlikely to exhibit this issue directly. :)

They've basically shown an edge case scenario in case there's any nutters out there in such a setup and grabs it. Not for normal users. :)
 
You likely have little to worry about to be honest. :)

From the tests they've done and shown in the "reflections" section, from what I can tell looking at the images, comparing the AW3423DW to the AW3423DWF I have in front of me (that they use for those average room shots); using the central arm holder which is the same colour on both (black, or black without any direct light on them), as it's white on the exterior of the DW and it's black on the F so can't compare those (and the DW white is more reflective). It clear that it really is more of a VERY bright office room or outside daylight (at noon) in a pure white almost reflective room (check out that table it's on they're using, it's reflective as a mirror, one of the reasons I dinged the MSI for that RGB bar at the bottom) that is causing the raised blacks on the screen by reflecting it "towards" the screen itself. Basically, it's everything that can be done to reflect light onto a screen, and not just any light, but very strong light and it also has a red hue.

A VERY unrealistic scenario given users of this monitor know very well what needs to be done to prevent issues; given if you just want to game or normal office work, you don't go QD-OLED, you go for the other screens. And in most cases, not even most offices are THAT bright, white and reflective. And in those cases, don't use a white light that is more on the lower end of the K scale.

So in your case, you're unlikely to see it, because unless if you open the blinds AND paint your ENTIRE room white (pure, and using a more reflective kind of paint), our screens (not just the Samsung) is unlikely to exhibit this issue directly. :)

They've basically shown an edge case scenario in case there's any nutters out there in such a setup and grabs it. Not for normal users. :)
My room is quite dim with 3/4 blackout curtains closed. The qd oled is looking slightly greyer than the woled. In the evening with my lights on a low setting, it is also slightly greyer. Still better than non oled tech, but definitely a minus that doesn't need floodlit rooms to become noticeable.
 
My room is quite dim with 3/4 blackout curtains closed. The qd oled is looking slightly greyer than the woled. In the evening with my lights on a low setting, it is also slightly greyer. Still better than non oled tech, but definitely a minus that doesn't need floodlit rooms to become noticeable.
Oh I didn't say there's no change to the QD OLED screen if there's some light on, I have that too. My F is also noticeably greyer than the LG CX, despite the CX being much larger. Again that's due to the lack of a polarizer on our screens compared to the WOLED. :)

Only the VERY noticeable change in colour that is referenced over at rtings (blacks turning purple hue) can only be achieved through VERY drastic means. That's not what any of us are likely to encounter. But the lighter blacks (greying like you have seen) is likely to be noticed when there is light on in a standard house. :)
 
Question for AW3423DWF owners if you don't mind. I have AW3420DW with an issue in warranty and dell are generously offering this newer model as a replacement.

I read about screen burn issues etc and this will be used for programming and gaming. With the warranty due to expire in July it feels likely I'll just end up with screen burn issues and pretty unhappy. Is that an accurate assessment?

Cheers
 
Question for AW3423DWF owners if you don't mind. I have AW3420DW with an issue in warranty and dell are generously offering this newer model as a replacement.

I read about screen burn issues etc and this will be used for programming and gaming. With the warranty due to expire in July it feels likely I'll just end up with screen burn issues and pretty unhappy. Is that an accurate assessment?

Cheers

We're far too soon into the release of this display (F) to be able to tell how the screen burn in is like unfortunately.

However, if we are to use the DW (original) as the basis for how the F behaves, we can say:

1. That if you go ham on the HDR and brightness (max on each), you will automatically increase your chance of burn in.
2. If you us bright elements and static UI elements, you will automatically increase your chance of burn in.
3. That if you do not shut down the panel (turn off, so it can perform panel refresh) you also automatically increase your chance of burn in.

In most home user cases, you typically don't have all three areas where chances of increased burn in happens is true at the same time. So in most case, typical users should be fine, and I would count programmers in those typical users categories.

As @HungryHippos has suggested, implementing dark themes and power down options will help the display stay alive in good condition for longer. And the screen is a good replacement option. But OLEDs do burn out over time; the exact time is unknown, but it's an eventual thing. But in your case, I would accept the warranty exchange for the F anyway, as the F "MUST" come with a 3 year warranty anyway for the QDOLED burn in (and other premium panel issues). So you might as well get it and get a new warranty along with it. I'm not sure you'd get the 3 year warranty if you ask for a different monitor as a replacement.
 
But in your case, I would accept the warranty exchange for the F anyway, as the F "MUST" come with a 3 year warranty anyway for the QDOLED burn in (and other premium panel issues).

Thanks both for the replies.

Are you sure on the 3Year warrsnty? He made a specific point to mention it would only carry over my remaining warranty only.

I'm inclined to just go for it regardless and be careful and hope for the best as its a fantastic upgrade for gaming.
 
I think in RMA replacement terms you will only have the remainder of the warranty, or a minimum period of time should that be very short.

You won't get a full new warranty again on the unit.

If it lasts a couple of years before you see any issues then you'd have to fork out for a new one, but I guess you can take the original purchase date and treat the monitor as if it's that old essentially.
 
Thanks both for the replies.

Are you sure on the 3Year warrsnty? He made a specific point to mention it would only carry over my remaining warranty only.

I'm inclined to just go for it regardless and be careful and hope for the best as its a fantastic upgrade for gaming.
Ah, that's my bad. I assumed from logical progression of what I know about the QD-OLED "burn in" warranty protection of 3 years would be applied to the F on a warranty replacement (but I didn't factor in that it might just be a 3 year standard warranty and includes it for the QD-OLED burn in issues as standard is all). Else (logically) if it experiences issues/burn in in August lets say a month after your original warranty ends, whilst that might be outside your warranty, but the new monitor failed inside 12 months and their own 3 year burn-in protection. But given the Agent has specifically told you that, then they are going to be more right than I am then. Again, my apologies for informing you of something that was not correct. :)
 
There should be a minimum period defined still, I'd ask them for clarification. I remember I did this with Razor once for a mouse, they said if less than X time left on warranty of original purchase, you'd get a defined minimum (was about 6 months afaik).
 
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