World first QD-OLED monitor from Dell and Samsung (34 inch Ultrawide 175hz)

Not 100% sure on the DWF model but I believe it will be 8 bit + frc to hit the higher refresh rate.

As confirmed by badass, pcmonitors, Vincent at HDTV test and various other sources, there is basically no difference between 8 bit frc and native 10 bit, there is also some testing by rtings to show that 8 bit frc actually has less banding than 10 bit on oled displays (although in real world usage, probably be nothing in it)
 
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Not 100% sure on the DWF model but I believe it will be 8 bit + frc to hit the higher refresh rate.

As confirmed by badass, pcmonitors, Vincent at HDTV test and various other sources, there is basically no difference between 8 bit frc and native 10 bit, there is also some testing by rtings to show that 8 bit frc actually has less banding than 10 bit on oled displays (although in real world usage, probably be nothing in it)

Thanks, that's good to know.

The MSI MEG 342C can do it via HDMI 2.1, I run 175Hz/10bit.

This is one of the reasons I asked, the MAG 341CQP is very similar to the DWF and while more expensive, has HDMI 2.1, but as 8-bit + FRC isn't an issue then it somewhat negates that advantage (I don't have any other devices I would hook up). It does have a very slightly higher refresh rate and some additional USB ports but that's perhaps not enough to justify the extra cost when it's still the same panel.
 
Thanks, I just read up on that and it seems 8-bit + FRC is virtually indistinguishable. Is that what the monitor would use?

I hear there's noticeable banding with standard 8-bit.

I hear there is the superior g-sync ultimate version available on sale on members market. Stick in a offer. It might just get accepted :p
 
Thanks, I just read up on that and it seems 8-bit + FRC is virtually indistinguishable. Is that what the monitor would use?

I hear there's noticeable banding with standard 8-bit.
That is correct, I've been editing between both 8bit and 10bit and there is no noticeable difference in anything at any point. I prefer 10-bit for 1: Peace of mind and 2: I'm at 144Hz anyway as 175Hz on the DW has frequent VRR flicker in the apps I use often whilst 144Hz has no flicker, so may as well use 10 bit in the process.

However, if you are on an AMD card then there may be a difference. Nvidia's 8-bit + FRC is basically 1:1 t native 10-bitt, and as I don't have an AMD card, didn't look into that any further so might be worth testing this yourself on your XT!
 
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That is correct, I've been editing between both 8bit and 10bit and there is no noticeable difference in anything at any point. I prefer 10-bit for 1: Peace of mind and 2: I'm at 144Hz anyway as 175Hz on the DW has frequent VRR flicker in the apps I use often whilst 144Hz has no flicker, so may as well use 10 bit in the process.

However, if you are on an AMD card then there may be a difference. Nvidia's 8-bit + FRC is basically 1:1 t native 10-bitt, and as I don't have an AMD card, didn't look into that any further so might be worth testing this yourself on your XT!

Interesting, if I do end up getting one I'll let you know what I find. Still torn!
 
my aw3423dwf just arrived today to replace a aw3420dw.

is there an update to set setup/settings/best practice anywhere?

from a list of things it would seem like:
update firmware
autohide taskbar
pixel refresh settings
set settings on monitor (sdr/hdr)
hdr calibration shennigans

does anybody use an .icc profile? i have one for my aw3420dw when i calibrated which obviously no use now. cant remember how it works without one. windows just figures it out on its own?

In regards to minimizing burn in. the biggest concern i have is internet browsing. mainly chrome tab bar/bookmark bar etc. would it be best switching to a dark theme of some kind? not a fan of dark mode stuff and use default chrome theme but just worrying about static tabs/buttons along the top/side for hours on end.
 
my aw3423dwf just arrived today to replace a aw3420dw.

is there an update to set setup/settings/best practice anywhere?

from a list of things it would seem like:
update firmware
autohide taskbar
pixel refresh settings
set settings on monitor (sdr/hdr)
hdr calibration shennigans

does anybody use an .icc profile? i have one for my aw3420dw when i calibrated which obviously no use now. cant remember how it works without one. windows just figures it out on its own?

In regards to minimizing burn in. the biggest concern i have is internet browsing. mainly chrome tab bar/bookmark bar etc. would it be best switching to a dark theme of some kind? not a fan of dark mode stuff and use default chrome theme but just worrying about static tabs/buttons along the top/side for hours on end.
From what I have read and done, removing any ICC profiles (Colours are not accurate in Creator sRGB mode otherwise) attached to the monitor and rebooting is best. Also, use the Windows HDR calibration tool from the MS store to create an HDR profile for the monitor. Not sure on what is best to do with browser windows and the tabs. I only got this monitor last week, the price was too good to say no :)
 
my aw3423dwf just arrived today to replace a aw3420dw.

is there an update to set setup/settings/best practice anywhere?

from a list of things it would seem like:
update firmware
autohide taskbar
pixel refresh settings
set settings on monitor (sdr/hdr)
hdr calibration shennigans

does anybody use an .icc profile? i have one for my aw3420dw when i calibrated which obviously no use now. cant remember how it works without one. windows just figures it out on its own?

In regards to minimizing burn in. the biggest concern i have is internet browsing. mainly chrome tab bar/bookmark bar etc. would it be best switching to a dark theme of some kind? not a fan of dark mode stuff and use default chrome theme but just worrying about static tabs/buttons along the top/side for hours on end.

Remove the alienware .icc color profile in windows. The default .icc profile is complete rubbish and the screen looks better just by removing the profile.

Run the Windows HDR calibration tool, makes a huge difference imo.

Other than that your list is good. I would have reccomended installing TranslucentTB from the Windows store, because Windows has a grey line at the bottom of the screen when you auto hide the taskbar. However a recent windows update as fixed this and Windows no longer puts a grey line on the screen when the taskbar is hidden so you don't need TranslucentTB anymore
 
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For those still with the DW monitor, as suspected, the gsync module handles vrr flicker considerably better than other oled monitor on the market, I noticed this immediately in cp 2077 when fps is <60 and even still somewhat there at 70-80 but not nearly as noticeable, my videos:

When fps is 57:


When fps is 76+


And the DW with no flicker at <55 fps (as attested to below, there will still be some but it's pretty obvious to see the difference between the 2):


And rtings official testing on the DW:

NySyDoc.png
 
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Very interesting, always suspected this to be the case but it's nice to get confirmation. It's also good to see confirmation that the Gsync module does not get rid of VRR flicker as some thought, the flicker can still happen, its just less frequent than monitors that don't have Gsync

I have been considering selling my aw34 for a 32 inch 4k model, but now I'm not so sure. The aw34 is the only Gsync model on the market so its the only OLED monitor that has decent VRR flicker handling, making it very unique
 
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Very interesting, always suspected this to be the case but it's nice to get confirmation. It's also good to see confirmation that the Gsync module does not get rid of VRR flicker as some thought, the flicker can still happen, its just less frequent than monitors that don't have Gsync

I have been considering selling my aw34 for a 32 inch 4k model, but now I'm not so sure. The aw34 is the only Gsync model on the market so its the only OLED monitor that has decent VRR flicker handling, making it very unique

Yes it's quite the advantage! Some in the GPU sub forum that bang on about gsync offering nothing over freesync will not like to see that though! This has confirmed it for me, I would happily pay the premium once again for Nvidia tech as it just "simply works" :p

Also, based on just experience and testing, the aw34dw handles lower FPS i.e. <60 fps much better too, it has less stutter and just looks smoother and I also feel like the latency is better too as when FPS is below 60 on the aw32, it feels like frame gen is turned on when the base FPS is 40 FPS.....

However, I will say that the flicker etc. is mostly a non issue as long as you can keep your FPS to 70+
 
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