Yamakasi Catleap 27" 100mhz IPS

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DW if your happy the way it is I would not bother pushing the board but you could try a bit to see if you notice any notable difference to make it worth while doing. Mine has been in Heathrow since this morning looks like I won't see it untill Monday.
Would love this too please DW. Looking to pull the trigger and if 120hz is worth it would go down that road ;)
 
Hey guys n girls. :D

On the topic of the lovely Achieva, Catleap, Crossover and PCBank 27inch monitors. I have read a lot of info over the past couple of days and have some questions, (as if the info I'd read hadn't been able to answer my questions already lol).

Ok,.. so,...

1. My Sapphire Radeon HD5850 says the two DVI ports are DVI-I - but those monitors with the sole DVI port require a DVI-D - without any added expense other than a DVI-D-to-DVI-D cable, can this work? If so, how? Will that cable allow one of those new monitors requiring a DVI-D connection to work properly? Any particular cables any of you have bought that would be suitable? Also, some of the auction-site sellers say what graphics cards are and are not compatible with various monitors yet I have read conflicting info with some people saying that in fact my card will have no problems working with the monitors - which monitors and how? I'm a little confused.

2. The screens with glass, (tempered or not), with the known dust-behind-the-glass issue, which of the four, 'brands', has:
  • The best fitted glass, (no dodgy tape please! lol).
  • The easiest glass to remove to clean behind to clear troublesome dust

Is there a list of the types of monitors that are sold with or without glass? I'd like one with a glass frontage. Just out of curiosity, how do the monitors look without the glass? Still glossy? Matt?

3. VESA mounts. I'd like to mount my monitor onto my wall so I can have it move about when I need to. I know the Catleap has a silver arc at the back which I discovered is a pig to remove but fortunately the Crossover seems to be the easiest to remove the reportedly great stand and mount a VESA stand/mount - what are the other two monitors like to remove their existing mounts? Easily enough?

4. If I can afford it, I may go for the Multi port monitors, (of any one of the 4 'brands'), this would allay any fears I have about the potential DVI port incompatibility, but if I know there may not be any DVI port issues then I may just stick with a lite version. Anything I should know about the multi port monitors regarding quality, issues, good points etc?

5. I have heard of lots of different graphics cards being suitable or not for the 2560 x 1440 res', but very little mention of the card I have. Will my Sapphire Radeon HD5850, (the blue/chrome/black one, 1Gb, with the sexy curves, not toxic I don't think, *I could be wrong*), be ok for BF:BC2 and maybe BF3, (BF3 if I can tolerate Origin again in the future lol), if so, what can I expect from it?

6. I've read that the Crossovers have better build quality, (metal chassis etc), but the PCBank monitors have better colour reproduction and the Catleaps have a shoddy stand. Anyone want to chip in with their views in a nutshell?

Sorry for waffling on but I am fastidious in my research as money for me is very, very tight so I have to be very careful what I buy as I cannot afford to have any serious issues such as having to pay to get a monitor sent back to Korea or to buy any expensive extras. I hope you understand.

I cannot decide if I even have a preference yet except that the Crossover supposedly has better build quality. Apart from that, I really can't decide.

What matters to me most:

1. Connectivity. It MUST work with my Sapphire Radeon HD5850, (no issues with getting to BIOS if at all possible either). Not essential: DP. Useful: VGA & HDMI.
2. Build quality & reliability. Can't have it dropping dead or falling to pieces after a mere 6mths can we?
3. Default colour settings. I can calibrate well enough by eye, (I'm good like that ;)).

I just can't make up my mind - they all have their own merits!

Thanks for the thread OCUK, I appreciate it's not the normal thing.

LASTLY I hope the answers to my questions are of help to someone else. :) Thanks for your help. :)
 
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1. My Sapphire Radeon HD5850 says the two DVI ports are DVI-I - but those monitors with the sole DVI port require a DVI-D - without any added expense other than a DVI-D-to-DVI-D cable, can this work? If so, how?
DVI-D = Digital only DVI (won't work with a passive DVI to VGA converter)
DVI-I = DVI-D + DVI-A (has an analog signal over 4 pins, works with passive DVI to VGA converters)

What you need is dual-link DVI. AMD 5xxx cards usually come with one dual-link DVI. If you have a normal sapphire 5850 it says it has one right at the top of the product page.
The monitors come with a cable which apparently is of poor quality so it might be wise to order one from a well known local company - Just don't buy anything over 15 quid because it's gold plated or whatever other nonsense they come up with



2. The screens with glass, (tempered or not), with the known dust-behind-the-glass issue, which of the four, 'brands', has:
  • The best fitted glass, (no dodgy tape please! lol).
  • The easiest glass to remove to clean behind to clear troublesome dust
Is there a list of the types of monitors that are sold with or without glass? I'd like one with a glass frontage. Just out of curiosity, how do the monitors look without the glass? Still glossy? Matt?
Just don't. They're all stuck on there with tape and it will fail or it will get damaged during transport. The glass is stuck on the same or worse as on the Hazro glass-fronted models and Hazro stopped making those!
Without the glass they're still glossy so the glass does nothing but add the problem of it falling off which is pretty much garantueed to happen at some point of time.


3. VESA mounts. I'd like to mount my monitor onto my wall so I can have it move about when I need to. I know the Catleap has a silver arc at the back which I discovered is a pig to remove but fortunately the Crossover seems to be the easiest to remove the reportedly great stand and mount a VESA stand/mount - what are the other two monitors like to remove their existing mounts? Easily enough?
The Shimian seems to be the same as the Hazro monitor which means the foot can be easily detached. Not sure about the 3view pcbank.

4. If I can afford it, I may go for the Multi port monitors, (of any one of the 4 'brands'), this would allay any fears I have about the potential DVI port incompatibility, but if I know there may not be any DVI port issues then I may just stick with a lite version. Anything I should know about the multi port monitors regarding quality, issues, good points etc?
I can only find a multi variant of the catleap and that's lacking a displayport so you still can't use the native resolution over anything other than DVI.
(Only displayport and dual-link DVI have the necessary bandwidth for a 2560x1440 resolution).

5. I have heard of lots of different graphics cards being suitable or not for the 2560 x 1440 res', but very little mention of the card I have. Will my Sapphire Radeon HD5850, (the blue/chrome/black one, 1Gb, with the sexy curves, not toxic I don't think, *I could be wrong*), be ok for BF:BC2 and maybe BF3, (BF3 if I can tolerate Origin again in the future lol), if so, what can I expect from it?
tomshardware bf2 benchmarks
tomshardware bf3 benchmarks
BF2 seems to run well enough, for BF3 turn down the settings or get (a) better videocard(s).

Sorry for waffling on but I am fastidious in my research as money for me is very, very tight so I have to be very careful what I buy as I cannot afford to have any serious issues such as having to pay to get a monitor sent back to Korea or to buy any expensive extras.
I'd say don't buy one then. The sellers really aren't forced to provide too good a service (although so far they seem to do a pretty good job). At the very least stop considering the glass models.

1. Connectivity. It MUST work with my Sapphire Radeon HD5850, (no issues with getting to BIOS if at all possible either). Not essential: DP. Useful: VGA & HDMI.
That's just hit and miss with AMD and no-one can give you any garantuee that it will or will not work. Keep your old monitor around (yay dual-monitor?) and problem solved.
 
Well it was a few weeks until I received my customs bill, although not as much as I had thought, was charged £22.

On a side note, still loving this monitor, simply incredible!
 
One thing:

Out of the box, the PCbank may have the best colour reproduction, but bear in mind these are all the same panels made by LG. Apple use them, Dell use them, etc. All the same 27" IPS panel. If calibrated properly, they should all look fairly similar (all great).

If you don't intend to calibrate, the crossover may be a bad choice as it's known for some of them to have a blue tint from the factory, but it does have the best build quality by far.

Furthermore, watch with the VESA mounts. A silly design mistake in all of the korean monitors means the board is right behind the VESA mount. Use the screws that comes with the monitors or you risk shorting the board out by touching the board with a screw.
 
Anyone running BF3 on ultra with this monitor at full res. Could you spec your rig. Thinking of getting one to run BF3, rig is i5 2500K 8GB Ram GTX570 MSI twin frozr

I run it ultra 2560x1440 on my PCBANK. I have 2500k @ 4.8ghz, 16GB Ram, 7970 @ 1200/1500 and the game is installed on a SSD.

Some say if it's not 60fps constant it's no good but mine remains smooth even on the 64 player maps.
 
One thing:

Out of the box, the PCbank may have the best colour reproduction, but bear in mind these are all the same panels made by LG. Apple use them, Dell use them, etc. All the same 27" IPS panel. If calibrated properly, they should all look fairly similar (all great).

If you don't intend to calibrate, the crossover may be a bad choice as it's known for some of them to have a blue tint from the factory, but it does have the best build quality by far.

Furthermore, watch with the VESA mounts. A silly design mistake in all of the korean monitors means the board is right behind the VESA mount. Use the screws that comes with the monitors or you risk shorting the board out by touching the board with a screw.

Hi Celestial Nostos,

I was aware of the VESA mount screws potentially shorting the board issue, yeah, so I'm pleased I had read up what I had! :) It's still of course no bad thing to mention it again I suppose, so thanks. :) Which monitor do you have? *I assume you bought one of these LG IPS panel monitors? What do you think of it? :D As for colour calibration, I'll definitely calibrate it by eye if I need to, it'll be a breeze, I'm pretty good with colour. :)
 
Axeia,

Thanks heaps for your help there, that was stonkingly good of you. :) I may well risk a vanilla Crossover, though worst case scenario I can try to sell it if the DVI connection proves problematic.

The only thing really still troubling me is the risk of not being able to get into my BIOS during start-up with my HD5850, (it's not the blue one I mistakenly thought it was, but the dark one with the chrome looking fan that you linked to). I no longer have a spare monitor, (my Dell S2309W got irreparably damaged, (I got mad :D), but could get a very cheap one if I absolutely have to, but I'd rather not because I just don't have the money or the space), so would use that as a last resort.

I'm going to get a VESA wall mount, a couple of different DVI cables, (to save time if one doesn't work for whatever reason), and go with that I think.
Thanks for the help, that was spot-on! :)
 
You would really have to ram the screws in hard to touch the circuit board as they are cupped so they have a metal back. The screws that came with my desk mount were the perfect length. This is on the PCBANK so others may be different.
 
I haven't yet purchased one, Spartacus. Planning to from AW starting this week. Worth paying the premium as she promises 0 defects or she'll pay for shipping back. Can't say no to that really!

MOOGLEYS, I know on the crossover there is no metal plate preventing the screws from touching the board. Is that what you mean? It mostly comes from the fact that they forgot to consider that other mounts (Ergotron MX for example) have thinner vesa plates that screw in compared to the stands they come with, allowing the screws to go in further.

All in all though, using the screws that came with the monitor instead of the ones that come with stands should stop that problem. Just make sure to check before turning on.
 
MOOGLEYS, I know on the crossover there is no metal plate preventing the screws from touching the board. Is that what you mean? It mostly comes from the fact that they forgot to consider that other mounts (Ergotron MX for example) have thinner vesa plates that screw in compared to the stands they come with, allowing the screws to go in further.

The mounts have a back to them. You can kind of see what I mean in this pic...

P1070022.jpg
 
To 4 of you folk here who each have one of the brands, (Achieva, Catleap, Crossover and CBank), could you all take us a picture of the VESA mounting holes from outside the back? (Turn monitor around, take a snap). Just so they're all in one place so we can all make a localised comparison. :) I know the Catleap obscures the holes with its silver arc at the rear but what are the rest like? Please make it clear which brand the picture is of, thanks. :) At the moment, my heart is on the Crossover. :D
 
Yep. Crossover has no back, so be warned.

Thanks for the tip Celestial Nostos, nice one, thanks. Someone said to use the screws that came with the monitor to mount the VESA mount with and not replacement screws which seems like common sense to me. Would be nice to find a way to fit something on the inside to prevent the screws in the crossover short-circuiting the internal electrics, though a little common sense when screwing the screws in wouldn't go amiss of course.
 
Thanks for the tip Celestial Nostos, nice one, thanks. Someone said to use the screws that came with the monitor to mount the VESA mount with and not replacement screws which seems like common sense to me. Would be nice to find a way to fit something on the inside to prevent the screws in the crossover short-circuiting the internal electrics, though a little common sense when screwing the screws in wouldn't go amiss of course.

Well, a lot of people would think to use the thumbscrews that came with the Ergotron just because.

If you're really paranoid, add a washer or two.
 
Bit of advice please guys, seeing as I've sold my 7970 :(

I'll take it my catleap won't work with the onboard intel HD 3000 graphics from my 2700k? (z68 mainboard)

If not, whats the cheapest newest generation graphics card I can use with it please? I was looking at maybe a Nvidia 630 or similar but all the specs say it only does Dual Link DVI-I - Thought we needed DVI-D for our monitors?

thanks in advance.
 
Bit of advice please guys, seeing as I've sold my 7970 :(

I'll take it my catleap won't work with the onboard intel HD 3000 graphics from my 2700k? (z68 mainboard)

If not, whats the cheapest newest generation graphics card I can use with it please? I was looking at maybe a Nvidia 630 or similar but all the specs say it only does Dual Link DVI-I - Thought we needed DVI-D for our monitors?

thanks in advance.

Yeah I'm confused by the same thing too. The auction site sellers say the HD5850 is not compatible with the monitors, (quite worrying), YET the Sapphire has 2 Dual Link DVI ports on it, (DVI-I),... so why do the sellers say that it's not compatible with these monitors even though they're dual link DVI? Is it because the DVI-I is incompatible with DVI-D in some way? I read on the Answers site that it CAN work without any expensive kit, just use a regular DVI-D-to-DVI-D cable - can someone clarify? There seems to be lots of conflicting info,...... :(
 
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