BMW and M Power Owners

Soldato
Joined
26 Sep 2007
Posts
4,137
Location
Newcastle
I'm pretty sure it just has to be a VAT registered garage and 'approved' parts. Now on the approved parts, does that mean it must be OEM BMW parts, or OEM equivalent. E.g. A pagid brake disc, which could be what the OEM one is anyway.

Nope, he's right. The AUC warranty specifies BMW garages and BMW parts only

An Authorised BMW Centre or BMW Service Authorised Workshop using only genuine BMW Parts must carry out all service and warranty work.
https://www.bmw.co.uk/bmw-ownership...ies/bmw-approved-used-car-warranty-guidelines
Left a deposit on a e90 335d lci. Hopefully collect it tomorrow.

I was warned off the 335d's and advised to go for the 330d instead, fewer problems supposedly. HPFP, turbos among others I believe were common issues?
 
Soldato
Joined
4 Nov 2004
Posts
14,370
Location
Beds
Last edited:
Caporegime
Joined
23 Dec 2011
Posts
32,923
Location
Northern England
Interesting, thanks for that.

It does say for warranty and service work, now how would changing discs and pads at an independent work out?

As they're will be wear and tear items (not covered) and are not part of the general service or warranty work (going by the wording T&Cs)

It's one that you'd need to take up with the dealer in question. If an indy damages the caliper for example when replacing pads then I can't see the warranty company paying out if it fails further down the line. And believe me, they'll tell you that an indy damaged it, even if they didn't.
 
Soldato
Joined
4 Nov 2004
Posts
14,370
Location
Beds
The brakes haven't been changed Mr BMW ;);)

But yes, I see your point. Just waiting on current pad/disk thickness back from BMW as they've been a bit cagey on that, even though they've done it as part of the car checks. Keep telling us that iDrive says 8k, so that's ok.........
 
Caporegime
Joined
23 Dec 2011
Posts
32,923
Location
Northern England
:D I remember BMW telling me my pads needed doing urgently. Popped the wheels off and had a look myself, nearly 10mm all around. I never trusted a thing they said after that. Pads survived another 20k miles.
 
Soldato
Joined
4 Nov 2004
Posts
14,370
Location
Beds
:D I remember BMW telling me my pads needed doing urgently. Popped the wheels off and had a look myself, nearly 10mm all around. I never trusted a thing they said after that. Pads survived another 20k miles.

Aye, always works in their favour.

Buying car
Me: Pads look low on outside, maybe 5mm. Please give info on thickness now of them/discs and limits for chaneg (so 2mm wear sensor and 3mm change = 5mm).
Them idrive says 8k, all good.
Not so annoying me: Ok fine, awesome.

2 months time when they jump from 8kmiles to 'CHANGE NOW' on iDrive after 1000 miles travelled on a motorway, I take car in and they say needed changing months ago, then I'm **** outta luck.

Any idea on at what point a wear sensor will say change pads on a BMW, 2/3mm? I know that an AUC needs pads changed once at 3mm away from the wear sensor cut-off, but never had a car with such a sensor.
 
Associate
Joined
2 Jan 2009
Posts
2,013
Location
London
Left a deposit on a e90 335d lci. Hopefully collect it tomorrow.
Did you get it? I also got back in the BMW club, bought a e92 335d lci in mid December. Did about 5k miles and lots of preventive maintenance on it, I'll draw up a list of the common things that need replacing.
It's one that you'd need to take up with the dealer in question. If an indy damages the caliper for example when replacing pads then I can't see the warranty company paying out if it fails further down the line. And believe me, they'll tell you that an indy damaged it, even if they didn't.

You need a very special indy to damage a caliper when replacing traditional sliding caliper pads... Although I guess the pins on the Brembo brakes can get stuck and cause a bit of nightmare!
Mine were at 3mm on the outside, but unfortunately the inside always wears thinner (it's closer to the caliper piston) and they looked pretty horrendous despite the car having gone through a BMW vehicle check 1000 miles before I bought it.

Get the basic service done by BMW for the stamps, for brakes I'd certainly look for an indy or DIY and if you're really conservative just get BMW pads/ discs.
Personally I found the brakes to be totally inadequate on the e90 335d after a trip through Germany (new discs and pads all around, fluid change within past few months), I really miss the Brembo's in my A4 :(.
 
Soldato
Joined
26 Mar 2006
Posts
11,581
Location
United Kingdom
Did you get it?

Hi yes I did. I like an idiot forgot to check two things.

Drivers side heated seat. Button lights up and then turns off. Seat won’t heat up so I’m thinking it’s the element or the actual module worst case. I’ve checked fuses so far and all seem fine.

Passenger seat is fine.

The wing mirror, mirror adjustment won’t work either. Not sure what it could be but I’ll check fuse at one point or I’m thinking it may be the actual switch that controls it.

Other than that it has the usual misting of oil on the lower boost pipe, so that will need replacing which I new of. Power steering o ring needs replacing.

Drove fine on the way back with no issues. Everything else works as it should.

Has some stupid wide alloys on it, but body work is immaculate considering the mileage it’s done and owners it’s had.

Full service history with mixture of bmw dealer and bmw independent.

Plans are to get rid of the alloys and find some nice mv4s/313s that have not cracked (doubt that will happen). Try pinpoint the heated seat issue and wing mirror adjustment issue.
 
Associate
Joined
2 Jan 2009
Posts
2,013
Location
London
Ha, don't beat yourself to it - buying a used car is tricky and you can miss the odd thing.
I went to see 3 cars on the same day, the first was so battered that I didn't know where to start and I left after 5 minutes.
The seconds looked promising, although with a bit of work required on it.
The 3rd had a "racechip" box plugged in and had all kinds of errors to it, the dealer had the plates ready and was sticking them to the car for a test drive but I just told him not to bother after 2 minutes with my code reader.

I made an offer for the second one (full BMWSH) and negotiated quite aggressively as there were a few bits that needed money. (brakes all around, tyres were all premium both low-ish on thread, 2 glow plugs, the odd leak, etc.) Transferred a deposit in the evening and collected it 3 days later after selling my A4.

I've spent the past month doing all the preventive maintenance. The boost hose was dry on mine.

  • All filters & oil (the air filter looked shocking, no wonder given the official service interval) will change oil every 8-10k miles moving forward.
  • Glow plugs and intake manifold seals (they all leak eventually) Left the swirl flaps in there as they were solid and removing them interferes with the DPF operation. Funny enough Glow plugs are a non service items and they didn't get flagged by BMW in the Vehicle Check, despite their functionality being essential for the DPF regen (and smooth cold starts)
  • Thermostat (shockingly there was no EGR stat on the e92 335D LCI as I have later found out). They all fail eventually leading to poorer economy and eventually not enough temp for a DPF regen
  • Oil feed pipe on the small turbo - it had a film of oil on the top and after removing the airbox I saw it was leaking quite badly and had covered bits of piping and the large turbo in oil, delivering a fresh "oil burner" smell occasionally in the cabin. Easy DIY in less than an hour for £50. They all fail eventually due to poor design, the new pipe comes reinforced with a heat shield (same as the large turbo oil feed pipe) so clearly a design flaw.
  • All brakes - ATE rears and TRW fronts. Unfortunately the fronts are... not adequate at Autobahn speeds, coming from an F30 with M Sport brakes and an A4 with Brembo 4 pots.

All the above will need attention on any M57 engine regardless of the car - for any potential buyers. This is my first 335D, but I had an e92 330D in the past so well familiar with the risks and liabilities.

Funnily enough, mine came with 313's and while they do look stunning I think I'm going to sell them and get 18's - I live in pothole infested central London. Right now it's sitting on 17 winters (I took a trip across Europe) since they second day I bought it and I think I'll have a heart attack with 19's in the long term.
 

NVP

NVP

Soldato
Joined
6 Sep 2007
Posts
12,649
'Coolant level low' warning came on - topped it up and just dropped it off for it's 100k service but... could this be early signs of the EGR cooler issue on N57's?

I'm hoping it is just a one off due to age and will keep an eye on it.
 
Soldato
Joined
10 Oct 2006
Posts
3,571
'Coolant level low' warning came on - topped it up and just dropped it off for it's 100k service but... could this be early signs of the EGR cooler issue on N57's?

I'm hoping it is just a one off due to age and will keep an eye on it.

It won't be a one off, if it is the EGR cooler BMW will replace it for free but parts are in short supply.
 
Soldato
Joined
26 Mar 2006
Posts
11,581
Location
United Kingdom
@Cristian It just needs a good engine clean at bottom because it’s all gunked up. I’m expecting to replace certain things but won’t know for sure until I clean and go from there.

My Carly adapater came and I checked codes which all seemed old. Cleared and went for a drive. The only ones I have now are driver side heated mirror connection interrupted which helps narrow it down, could be corroded contacts or break in wiring somewhere which I’ll check. Also drivers side heated seat which I obviously know about.

When I checked on viewing and on cic there wasn’t anything.
 
Back
Top Bottom