1930s Semi Refurb - Part 11 of ... (Summer House)

Dan
Are you going to build the walls as panels, if so I find a foot works wonders as a way to get stuff tight ;) Nails pull tight anyway, thats the point, easier to nail than to screw well.
Use a small/medium lump hammer and you can send some pretty meaty nails in with no drama at all.

When doing DIY and time is your friend I always clamp, you can get rid of some serious bending / warping with clamps
 
Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
Dan
Are you going to build the walls as panels, if so I find a foot works wonders as a way to get stuff tight ;) Nails pull tight anyway, thats the point, easier to nail than to screw well.
Use a small/medium lump hammer and you can send some pretty meaty nails in with no drama at all.

When doing DIY and time is your friend I always clamp, you can get rid of some serious bending / warping with clamps
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Yeah Im going to build the floor first obviously, then the four walls and lift into place.

My tightest wall will be the back one, as I have to get it really close to the boundary fence (narrow garden). I'll be making this wall in a complete piece including the cladding and then lifting the whole lot in one.

I'll need to find a cheap lightweight cladding for this back wall, it will never be seen so I just want something easy. I'll be using something nicer on the other three walls.

On the Oakwood solo build video the guy shows some good tips for getting things straight, using screws to pull in a gap, and solo lifting beams by attaching temporary bits of wood.
 
danlightbulb said:
Yeah Im going to build the floor first obviously, then the four walls and lift into place.

My tightest wall will be the back one, as I have to get it really close to the boundary fence (narrow garden). I'll be making this wall in a complete piece including the cladding and then lifting the whole lot in one.

I'll need to find a cheap lightweight cladding for this back wall, it will never be seen so I just want something easy. I'll be using something nicer on the other three walls.

On the Oakwood solo build video the guy shows some good tips for getting things straight, using screws to pull in a gap, and solo lifting beams by attaching temporary bits of wood.
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Just be mindful on spacing - you'll need 150 overhang all the way around, plus fascias, plus guttering. So don't go so close to the boundary you end up with stuff overhanging in their garden!

I assume you've seen the few vids where he finishes the wall before lifting it, due to space issues?
 
dlockers said:
Just be mindful on spacing - you'll need 150 overhang all the way around, plus fascias, plus guttering. So don't go so close to the boundary you end up with stuff overhanging in their garden!
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150mm overhang is probably going to be too much for me on the back. Ok on the other sides. At the back I will have to make everything almost flush. Im thinking of sloping the roof side to side rather than to the back, so that I don't have to have guttering on the back at all.
 
danlightbulb said:
150mm overhang is probably going to be too much for me on the back. Ok on the other sides. At the back I will have to make everything almost flush. Im thinking of sloping the roof side to side rather than to the back, so that I don't have to have guttering on the back at all.
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Almost flush will be a disaster for water.
 
Just watched the video where the guy does all the roof components.

Soffit, facia, rubber with small overhang, P-trim on 3 sides, special 2 part trim on the back side where it will drip into the guttering.

Then there are various corner trim pieces for covering up all the corner joins.

@dlockers how much was all this stuff?


His overhang on the sides and back doesn't look like 6" after cladding on, I might be able to get close to what he has on the video. His front overhang is much larger.
 
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Here's my arrangement. There is an existing brick wall that a sectional garage used to sit on. That what I was planning to rest my floor timbers on. But there isn't much gap to the fence line as that brick wall is right on it.

PXL-20240603-145721226.jpg
 
Don't know how you maintain any maintenance access on either the fence or garden room wall (especially if wood clad) with that proximity ..
I spent some of last weekend trying to spray vinegar onto such a shed wall as an initial step to kill algae.
 
jpaul said:
Don't know how you maintain any maintenance access on either the fence or garden room wall (especially if wood clad) with that proximity ..
I spent some of last weekend trying to spray vinegar onto such a shed wall as an initial step to kill algae.
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Well can't have any access simple as that. But if I come out further it will eat into too much garden space or compromise the size of the building.
 
If you can jack it up you can if desperate get some round fence posts under it and pull it out, not easy but can be done.
If your going uber close to the fence I would make sure thats an option personally.

Stuff can happen and its more likely it will if you have no access. Sods law.
 
danlightbulb said:
Just watched the video where the guy does all the roof components.

Soffit, facia, rubber with small overhang, P-trim on 3 sides, special 2 part trim on the back side where it will drip into the guttering.

Then there are various corner trim pieces for covering up all the corner joins.

@dlockers how much was all this stuff?


His overhang on the sides and back doesn't look like 6" after cladding on, I might be able to get close to what he has on the video. His front overhang is much larger.
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The rubber was 800 quid including the p trim stuff. The soffits and fascias caught me off guard - that was 350 of totally unplanned cost.

He recommends a 150mm overhang - I've seen a view like the ones you linked later with no overhang, but the ones I saw, actually there is an overhang they've just built the fascia/cladding out. I don't know anything about ones without fascias or overhangs.

My workshop is actually on the boundary to the extent the neighbors removed their fence. Might be worth considering if you get on well with neighbors....
 
dlockers said:
My workshop is actually on the boundary to the extent the neighbors removed their fence. Might be worth considering if you get on well with neighbors.
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So are you going with fireproof cladding on the rear for building regs? Sorry if that's covered earlier in the thread.

I quite like the simple metal stuff I've seen some people use on rear/boundary sides.
 
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