My workshop predates the rules so it's just creosoted and tanalised shiplap wood.
In Dan's case he'll need to check with council on what is allowed - some define non combustible as brick and only brick.
1930s Semi Refurb - Part 11 of ... (Summer House)
- Thread starter dlockers
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In Dan's case he'll need to check with council on what is allowed - some define non combustible as brick and only brick.
Soldato
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Of course, existing workshop not big **** off summer house
You're like my father-in-law. Claims we have too much stuff everywhere but outside his tidy house is 3 sheds full of junk. Just keeps building em!
(I'm not disapproving of your build tho)
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Haha new summer house is over a meter from every boundary so I don't need to worry about BC. Ill probably still use metal as it's cheapest and easiest.Of course, existing workshop not big **** off summer house
You're like my father-in-law. Claims we have too much stuff everywhere but outside his tidy house is 3 sheds full of junk. Just keeps building em!
(I'm not disapproving of your build tho)
Soldato
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I will be on or under the 15m2 limit for building regs.
Quite. Let's get this thread back on the rails shall we.Well, that's the first time I've witnessed passive aggression in a DIY thread
You mean on the nails, right?
I'm actually considering screws now
Soldato
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No, screws.
Nomorenails!
I was going to start a thread about a similar thing and then stumbled upon yours @dlockers. I'm in the very early stages of convincing myself that I need to rip down my existing cabin and DIY a new one entirely. I have what I believe to be a Dunster cabin, or something of very similar construction. We inherited it when we moved in. It is solid 45mm tongue/groove stuff which slots one over the other. 4.5 x 2.5 ish metres. It's solid. Good roof. But it's seen better days and is rotten around the lower door frame and some of the floor. Sadly, the previous house owners that built it or had it built, decided to lay it on the bare garden (some shingle and mud). Inevitably, someone jumped through the floor earlier in the year after throwing a good darts score. 
The problem with the Dunster style cabins are that each timber expands and contracts in the seasons and it moves. So you can't really take them seriously as structures as you can't attach anything to the internal "walls" as they move. So you can't really batten and insulate without the structure being at war with you. They are cabins to remain as summer houses/sheds really.
I want to pretty much build the cheapest replacement I can. I am limited in size as have a very small garden so needs to be similar to 4.5 x 2.5. I say cheap... I mean without scrimping on the important things like...ya know...it not rotting. Solid and well insulated. Also needs to be within 2.5m total height as right up to boundary. I only really want a door and a single small window as it's primary function is a home office and storage as we have no garage (converted to bedroom).
I've watched countless videos on the matter and to get going, I've been debating the two main factors which will account for all the plans. The base and the roof construction. I'm definitely going to build all 4 walls the same height, then use firrings to raise the front side to keep it as simple/quick as possible.
Some questions...
Where do you buy giant tarps and how much are they? My main concern with these projects is that we live in the UK where it rains daily. The chipboard floor you used I would have been worried about that swelling up. In fact I see a lot of people use OSB for the floor or even ply in case of water issues. What made you chose the tongue and groove chipboard? Cost? I feel like I'd be constantly rushing to not have things get wet and have nowhere to store stuff whilst it will be in progress.
In terms of the base, mine will be small and the ground is already very flat. I like the idea of the screw/rods method you used, but I just feel like it's a faff compared to just pouring a concrete pad? What's the cost difference? I see more people doing raised timber ones and celotex on youtube compared to a concrete pad. I tend to see concrete pads more with brick/block builds.
How much gap did you leave from floor to the base timbers? I read that it should be 15cm to minimize splash back from rain?
I understand how to do the risen timber floors and that air flow prevents damp with the PIR and tape creating a seal. But I don't really get the damp proof membrane vs damp proof course situation with using a concrete pad and just having the timber floor sat on top of it. Seems different methods can be used to prevent water wicking up the base.
What have you decided on hot vs cold roof? I understand pros and cons of each but I think it will depend on my base choice first affecting height.
Any ideas on predicted total cost and time? I gather EPDB roofing can't be applied with the glue when it gets uber cold come say October.
Why do you feel a steel lintel is necessary? (Not saying it isn't).
Are places like Wickes pointless for decent timber at good prices? I find a lot of the CLS is heavily warped at my one.
You refer a lot to a "build pack" but I can't see where you state what this is, where from and how much it was. Is it some sort of kit from a supplier with a load of timber for this kind of project?
How did you get a 70KG Rubber roof up a ladder by yourself?
@Welshman that's interesting about the method to tie down the roof hangers with a single screw. Why is this not publicised more on youtube builds? I see literally nobody doing this. Looks about 100 times quicker? The more I think about it though, @dlockers makes a good point that the forces to resist are in line with that method. A hanger would have multiple nails going in perpendicular to the force generated to lift the roof. I guess hanger is both traditional and therefore preferred, plus cheap. It's just unfortunately slow AF.
The problem with the Dunster style cabins are that each timber expands and contracts in the seasons and it moves. So you can't really take them seriously as structures as you can't attach anything to the internal "walls" as they move. So you can't really batten and insulate without the structure being at war with you. They are cabins to remain as summer houses/sheds really.
I want to pretty much build the cheapest replacement I can. I am limited in size as have a very small garden so needs to be similar to 4.5 x 2.5. I say cheap... I mean without scrimping on the important things like...ya know...it not rotting. Solid and well insulated. Also needs to be within 2.5m total height as right up to boundary. I only really want a door and a single small window as it's primary function is a home office and storage as we have no garage (converted to bedroom).
I've watched countless videos on the matter and to get going, I've been debating the two main factors which will account for all the plans. The base and the roof construction. I'm definitely going to build all 4 walls the same height, then use firrings to raise the front side to keep it as simple/quick as possible.
Some questions...
Where do you buy giant tarps and how much are they? My main concern with these projects is that we live in the UK where it rains daily. The chipboard floor you used I would have been worried about that swelling up. In fact I see a lot of people use OSB for the floor or even ply in case of water issues. What made you chose the tongue and groove chipboard? Cost? I feel like I'd be constantly rushing to not have things get wet and have nowhere to store stuff whilst it will be in progress.
In terms of the base, mine will be small and the ground is already very flat. I like the idea of the screw/rods method you used, but I just feel like it's a faff compared to just pouring a concrete pad? What's the cost difference? I see more people doing raised timber ones and celotex on youtube compared to a concrete pad. I tend to see concrete pads more with brick/block builds.
How much gap did you leave from floor to the base timbers? I read that it should be 15cm to minimize splash back from rain?
I understand how to do the risen timber floors and that air flow prevents damp with the PIR and tape creating a seal. But I don't really get the damp proof membrane vs damp proof course situation with using a concrete pad and just having the timber floor sat on top of it. Seems different methods can be used to prevent water wicking up the base.
What have you decided on hot vs cold roof? I understand pros and cons of each but I think it will depend on my base choice first affecting height.
Any ideas on predicted total cost and time? I gather EPDB roofing can't be applied with the glue when it gets uber cold come say October.
Why do you feel a steel lintel is necessary? (Not saying it isn't).
Are places like Wickes pointless for decent timber at good prices? I find a lot of the CLS is heavily warped at my one.
You refer a lot to a "build pack" but I can't see where you state what this is, where from and how much it was. Is it some sort of kit from a supplier with a load of timber for this kind of project?
How did you get a 70KG Rubber roof up a ladder by yourself?
@Welshman that's interesting about the method to tie down the roof hangers with a single screw. Why is this not publicised more on youtube builds? I see literally nobody doing this. Looks about 100 times quicker? The more I think about it though, @dlockers makes a good point that the forces to resist are in line with that method. A hanger would have multiple nails going in perpendicular to the force generated to lift the roof. I guess hanger is both traditional and therefore preferred, plus cheap. It's just unfortunately slow AF.
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Oh and on the screws vs nails thing... I've read that nails are meant to be preferable when joining on horizontal loads/forces due to better sheer strength than screws. Screws are surely better on attaching boards as you won't get movement and hence squeaks/noise?
I'm also more of a screwer than a nailer
I have impact guns but never bought a nail gun because Dewalt do about 6 different ones (deliberately I'm sure) and they are all expensive. So whenever I've wanted one, I've always convinced myself screws are fine yo. Yeah I'd like one though. If I decide nails are needed for my build, I'll get bored of hammering after 2 nails.
I'm also more of a screwer than a nailer
I have impact guns but never bought a nail gun because Dewalt do about 6 different ones (deliberately I'm sure) and they are all expensive. So whenever I've wanted one, I've always convinced myself screws are fine yo. Yeah I'd like one though. If I decide nails are needed for my build, I'll get bored of hammering after 2 nails.
The earlier Oakwood Garden Rooms / Garden Room Guru videos are good.I was going to start a thread about a similar thing and then stumbled upon yours @dlockers. I'm in the very early stages of convincing myself that I need to rip down my existing cabin and DIY a new one entirely. I have what I believe to be a Dunster cabin, or something of very similar construction. We inherited it when we moved in. It is solid 45mm tongue/groove stuff which slots one over the other. 4.5 x 2.5 ish metres. It's solid. Good roof. But it's seen better days and is rotten around the lower door frame and some of the floor. Sadly, the previous house owners that built it or had it built, decided to lay it on the bare garden (some shingle and mud). Inevitably, someone jumped through the floor earlier in the year after throwing a good darts score.
The problem with the Dunster style cabins are that each timber expands and contracts in the seasons and it moves. So you can't really take them seriously as structures as you can't attach anything to the internal "walls" as they move. So you can't really batten and insulate without the structure being at war with you. They are cabins to remain as summer houses/sheds really.
I want to pretty much build the cheapest replacement I can. I am limited in size as have a very small garden so needs to be similar to 4.5 x 2.5. I say cheap... I mean without scrimping on the important things like...ya know...it not rotting. Solid and well insulated. Also needs to be within 2.5m total height as right up to boundary. I only really want a door and a single small window as it's primary function is a home office and storage as we have no garage (converted to bedroom).
I've watched countless videos on the matter and to get going, I've been debating the two main factors which will account for all the plans. The base and the roof construction. I'm definitely going to build all 4 walls the same height, then use firrings to raise the front side to keep it as simple/quick as possible.
Giant tarps? I got the door covering one years ago from Amazon when my kitchen roof sprang a leak. I can't remember cost. For this one being so large I ordered a damp proof course/visqueen for 38 quid as a temporary cover.
Chipboard is quite forgiving if it gets wet. Get p5 and it'll retain it's integrity if it gets wet, but it must dry out. If you are definitely going to be leaving it outside and uncovered during wet, then egger protect do a 'waterproof' version with a cover. I'm not sure why people use OSB tbh.
It's a balance. I preferred to do 30 holes rather than shift tonnes of land to get a level. It is no different than building a fence and the same tool kit essentially. Pads are a little bit out of favour because you lose a bit of height when you insulate them, or you dig down further. The costs add up vs. 400 quid of rods for my size build, a 65 quid ton of ballast and some cement.
I have an overhang of the roof of 15cm.left and right, 30cm front and back. So I'm out of splash zone. I hugged the floor as sensibly as I could so front left is probably 25mm from the ground -- I have a bit of work to sort out the adjacent land tho. I might add a stringer to the current beam and attach my decking directly to it though...
For concrete you want a dpc in the middle of the pad. The dpc then folds up the walls to create a watertight structure. There are other methods but this is the one I've seen most recently... My workshop is concrete pads, 3 course of brick, dpc, then timber wall plate. It means I need a suspended wood floor or another concrete pour, or a PIR base and floating chipboard.
Hybrid. Basically smash the pir as tight to the roof OSB as possible. You can't do a proper roof under 2.5m.
I'm probably 8k in at the moment but 3k of that was designer doors (3k). However that cost excludes cladding which'll be a fortune, internal insulation, internal plasterboard, electrics.... This is a large "do it once" type build tho, so I've maxed the plot vs. have a particular need for this size.
It's a 3m wide door sensitive to loads from above. I have doubled up 5x2 as roof joists so they weigh quite a bit.
No. Go to a merchant. Local family run ones can surprise you on how low they go.
Oakwood garden rooms. They are 130 quid and include the bill of materials and some instructions that complement the yt videos.
As my neighbour put it "it was like watching an episode of worlds strongest man". It's heavy you just need to get it balanced on your shoulder.
Hope this helps - I know very little about concrete pads so I'm sure someone will correct what I've got wrong.
Soldato
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This is something I've wondered about. If the dpc is wrapped up the structure, and water does somehow get in, or even just condensation, then it will sit there with nowhere to escape to.
It'll wick up and out through the breather membrane on the walls? No idea, refer to my final sentence of the previous post
I reckon Im gonna build one about 2.7m height (and 1.8m away from boundary line). So it SHOULD require planning but to be honest my neighbours won't actually be able to see it
I could submit a planning application but there's a 12week determination period and I'm going to start in 4 weeks (I have 3 months paternity leave)
Reckon I'll be reet? I think I'll chance it.
P. S. how solid do you think the ground "piles" are>? my concern is I'll have a lot of tree roots but I could just adjust
Im gonna go around 8m wide X 3.5m deep in the back section taking up most the back swing/shed area in the picture above.
I could submit a planning application but there's a 12week determination period and I'm going to start in 4 weeks (I have 3 months paternity leave
) Reckon I'll be reet? I think I'll chance it.
P. S. how solid do you think the ground "piles" are>? my concern is I'll have a lot of tree roots but I could just adjust
Im gonna go around 8m wide X 3.5m deep in the back section taking up most the back swing/shed area in the picture above.
I mean the screw/rod base standard that Oakwood do. I watched a 30min video and seems OK to install but slightly concerned over the "it'll be reet" type sentimentI'd chance it personally...
How do you mean ground piles?
8x3.5 is going to be mega! Get your wallet out
but I guess lots of others have done it.Yeah it's probably gonna be 10k ish. It's only going to be a big shed really. I'll insulate the floor just incase for future but I'm gonna leave it fairly bare inside. The mrs is dead set against bifolds for a shed but I don't think French doors will be much better
Saw this cladding which I thought looked nice.
Bison Composite Cladding Plank - Black
Introducing the Bison Composite Cladding Plank in Black the epitome of durability, style, and environmental responsibility. Crafted from a unique