1930s Semi Refurb - Part 11 of ... (Summer House)

dlockers said:
Plastic Hubs delivered either today or yesterday - terrible comms but decent delivery speed. I now have all the soffits and fascia's I need to get the roof final fixed.

I also moved the glass for the bifolds into the garden room - weighs a tonne. I was hoping to fit the frame tomorrow but I don't think I'll be able to one man lift it...

Anyway, I have been told I need to finish the new nursery and overboard the ceiling. Dreading it tbh. I bought a StudBuddy (magnet) and it hasn't found a single joist...excellent..
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Ah rubbish!! Mine has been flawless!!

Go with the other suggestions…..
 
Buffman said:
Just rammy a drill with a long thin drill bit into the ceiling to find a couple screws for an overboard job :D
Doesn't matter if there's holes in a ceiling which will be over boarded
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Could be pipes or cables there though?

A borescope camera would be ideal here, or a hole big enough to put a phone in to take pics.
 
sigma said:
Could be pipes or cables there though?

A borescope camera would be ideal here, or a hole big enough to put a phone in to take pics.
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If dlockers anything like me and been in his loft he'll know where every pipe/cable is :D.

So youre only drilling past the plaster and lathes till you find a ceiling support. Pipework would be clipped circa 100mm above that support
 
Day 11 (two half days): this has been slow going as I am a bit blocked - weather, the doors being too heavy for a one man lift, and me being distracted by the rear bedroom. I am now ready to glue the roof as all soffits and fascia's are fitted. I just need to get my head around the gear the roof came with.

sRYZmpy.jpg


Had to venture "round back" in this absolute bomb site, too. I have no idea where to start here lol....
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Reflecting on the to-do list:
1. Order internal insulation (and maybe plasterboard)
2. Glue roof
3. Fit doors
4. Slate battens
5. I need to close the gap internally where the fall on the roof is - annoyingly I was super smart one side and fitted the PIR before the roof went on, I forgot to do it the other side.
6. Insulate internally
7. First fix wiring
- pre condition is to have a proper think about AC and lighting
8. Vapour barrier
9. Plasterboard
10. Final floor

God knows how I am going to tackle the ground on the outside of the building and get rid of the rubbish. I may need to pay someone as I am pretty broken :cry:
 
Do you need to fit the roof PIR before the roof? I was not gonna bother insulating mine but might insulate the "inaccessible" parts eg floor and any difficult to access voids incase I want to use it in future for any alternative reasons.
 
Buffman said:
Do you need to fit the roof PIR before the roof? I was not gonna bother insulating mine but might insulate the "inaccessible" parts eg floor and any difficult to access voids incase I want to use it in future for any alternative reasons.
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The only bit where it makes sense to is on the left/right eaves. The way you layout your roof spans leaves you with a gap that is difficult to get to from the inside (hard to explain, but we are talking like 3 inches of PIR in a place where once fitted, the gap is like 1inch). The rest of the roof I will do from the inside.

Definitely insulate floor, and maybe these two areas (left and right eaves) and then everything else is a super easy retrofit.
 
dlockers said:
God knows how I am going to tackle the ground on the outside of the building and get rid of the rubbish
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It doesn't look too bad, just a few wood offcuts. Get a fire going and burn them or stack neatly in one area of the garden.
Then blow or sweep away the sawdust and it will look 100x better.
 
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dlockers said:
Reflecting on the to-do list:
1. Order internal insulation (and maybe plasterboard)
2. Glue roof
3. Fit doors
4. Slate battens
5. I need to close the gap internally where the fall on the roof is - annoyingly I was super smart one side and fitted the PIR before the roof went on, I forgot to do it the other side.
6. Insulate internally
7. First fix wiring
- pre condition is to have a proper think about AC and lighting
8. Vapour barrier
9. Plasterboard
10. Final floor
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11: Provide OCUK thread with parts used and detailed costings?
12: As a result of 11, I can safely ignore the idea and live with a **** rotting shed until the end of time.

:)
 
dlockers said:
The only bit where it makes sense to is on the left/right eaves. The way you layout your roof spans leaves you with a gap that is difficult to get to from the inside (hard to explain, but we are talking like 3 inches of PIR in a place where once fitted, the gap is like 1inch). The rest of the roof I will do from the inside.

Definitely insulate floor, and maybe these two areas (left and right eaves) and then everything else is a super easy retrofit.
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Do the eaves overhang on all sides with the Oakwood standard? Ie left /right have an overhang of 100mm say and front say 300mm and back side 100mm?

I want a small overhang as its good to stop water dripping

Also if I buy a 7 * 3.5m build do you know if that's the internal /external measurements and presumably doesn't account for overhang?

Re measured mine at weekend and can only fit 7*3.5m reasonably.
 
Buffman said:
Do the eaves overhang on all sides with the Oakwood standard? Ie left /right have an overhang of 100mm say and front say 300mm and back side 100mm?

I want a small overhang as its good to stop water dripping

Also if I buy a 7 * 3.5m build do you know if that's the internal /external measurements and presumably doesn't account for overhang?

Re measured mine at weekend and can only fit 7*3.5m reasonably.
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Yeah overhang is 150mm each side with 300 at the front. I had extra rubber so I ended up with a 300mm overhang at the front AND the rear, with 150mm either side. The reason they stick to 300/150 is because soffits usually come in those dimensions and it says cutting down.

The 6x3.5m dim refers to the floor size so you lose a bit of internal space once your walls are built. As long as you stay less than multiples of 2.4 you can flex the drawing quite easily, e.g. build the roof <2.4m wide, or <4.8m wide, or <7.2m (as OSB board is 2.4m).

So yeah I did **** up a bit as I measured 1M from the boundary to floor; but that didn't include the 150mm overhang, so technically I am 850mm from the boundary now the overhang is on.
 
Ah nice one. My next question....

If the roof timbers are effectively sloped back to front by a differential, doesnt that mean your internal ceiling will be sloped?

I presume firring strips aren't used to save on head height?

I need to watch more of the Oakwood videos but to be honest without being critical they aren't edited particularly well (at all?) and I kind of want the 'TL: DR' service which you are providing :D
 
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Buffman said:
Ah nice one. My next question....

If the roof timbers are effectively sloped back to front by a differential, doesnt that mean your internal ceiling will be sloped?

I presume firring strips aren't used to save on head height?

I need to watch more of the Oakwood videos but to be honest without being critical they aren't edited particularly well (at all?) and I kind of want the 'TL: DR' service which you are providing :D
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Yeah it is sloped but not noticeably I'd say. If you are going over the 2.5m I guess you can design it how you like though - build all walls equal, use firring strips, do a warm or a cold roof instead of a hybrid, etc..

Haha yeah some are a tough watch - I started them during lockdown so there wasn't much else to do :cry:. The main value of the build pack is the bill of materials tbh, which in hindsight, you can quite easily calculate yourself. The videos are then just reference guides before you get going on that particular day, e.g. I've watched the roof bit the day before I did the major roof stuff; yesterday I swatted up on the soffits/facias etc... I just scan to the bits I want to see.
 
dlockers said:
Yeah it is sloped but not noticeably I'd say. If you are going over the 2.5m I guess you can design it how you like though - build all walls equal, use firring strips, do a warm or a cold roof instead of a hybrid, etc..

Haha yeah some are a tough watch - I started them during lockdown so there wasn't much else to do :cry:. The main value of the build pack is the bill of materials tbh, which in hindsight, you can quite easily calculate yourself. The videos are then just reference guides before you get going on that particular day, e.g. I've watched the roof bit the day before I did the major roof stuff; yesterday I swatted up on the soffits/facias etc... I just scan to the bits I want to see.
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The framing part of it im very happy with now, for me the still uncertain part is all the little parts of the roof, fascia, soffit, trims and guttering. Dlockers if you could link to some of the roofing/soffit/guttering parts that you've bought it would be really useful.
 
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danlightbulb said:
The framing part of it im very happy with now, for me the still uncertain part is all the little parts of the roof, fascia, soffit, trims and guttering. Dlockers if you could link to some of the roofing/soffit/guttering parts that you've bought it would be really useful.
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I was a bit "uneasy" about this too but its been pretty straight forward. I ordered these bits from plasticshub:
c2PN4oU.png


Then some polytop pins (Wickes stock them). Basically attach soffit, then attach fascia, use the joining bits/corners as required, then buzz the excess of with a multi tool so it fits level with roof. Done.

The rubber roof then comes with bits that cover the rubber once it is folded over the top of the fascia.

Edit: guttering I am not thinking about yet but have my Wickes basket ready.
 
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dlockers said:
I was a bit "uneasy" about this too but its been pretty straight forward. I ordered these bits from plasticshub:
c2PN4oU.png


Then some polytop pins (Wickes stock them). Basically attach soffit, then attach fascia, use the joining bits/corners as required, then buzz the excess of with a multi tool so it fits level with roof. Done.

The rubber roof then comes with bits that cover the rubber once it is folded over the top of the fascia.

Edit: guttering I am not thinking about yet but have my Wickes basket ready.
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Are you using the p trims and two part gutter trims that are shown on the video?
 
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