1930s Semi Refurb - Part 11 of ... (Summer House)

Are the roof areas East and West? Some serious potential if they are - possibly 10/11 panels per side in portrait position.
Only issues will be securing them down, it's likely mounted through ( special fixings) and sealed, nut always a potential weak/leak spot.
Don't think a ballast system would be suitable.
North east and south west so just shy of having full evening sun.

I've seen you can get fixings for corrugated style roofs. This cement board is bolted externally with rubber washers that are all nearly perished.

How heavy are the panels? I guess there wouldn't be a rail system at 10ft centers lol.
 
Where was it you ordered fasteners from again? @dlockers Presume that was cheapest place/do you rate them?

Tjanks.

Edit: oh yeah I'm gonna use galvanised rather than bright zinc plated if I can....its the engineer in me..
 
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Where was it you ordered fasteners from again? @dlockers Presume that was cheapest place/do you rate them?

Tjanks.

Edit: oh yeah I'm gonna use galvanised rather than bright zinc plated if I can....its the engineer in me..
BAPP. They do BZP or Galv. I went BZP on the basis it'd outlive me easily :). Most live so far under the structure they'll never get much weather in any case.
 
Day 9:

12 hours today

One man lift of the beam --- I went with the caber toss method to get it down the garden as my pregnant wife was totally useless at lifting it and her BF was playing on my PC :rolleyes:

WmDThCi.jpg


Roof joists in. Slight bow has annoyed me on left hand trimmer - will probably need to sawzall it off and start again - it has a slight curve in it due to a bow in the timber.
WaNwBtC.jpg


Secured for the next few days as the weather is just all over the place. Note the different membrane right hand side - £80 saved! The neighbor had a tiny offcut and I was only that much short!
5hCMu8T.jpg
Remind me, does the build pack account for doubled up roof timbers? I've bought one (7*3.5m) but was watching a lot of the YouTube videos and they're only single 5*2s on the roof.
 
Remind me, does the build pack account for doubled up roof timbers? I've bought one (7*3.5m) but was watching a lot of the YouTube videos and they're only single 5*2s on the roof.
Yeah I think he over did the 5*2 in general, as I have about 6 lengths spare. It doesn't account for the coach bolts though, I ended up getting them from TS separately.

You only need doubles if you exceed 3M IIRC.

Edit: don't forget to crown the timber on the roof
 
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Yeah I think he over did the 5*2 in general, as I have about 6 lengths spare. It doesn't account for the coach bolts though, I ended up getting them from TS separately.

You only need doubles if you exceed 3M IIRC.

Edit: don't forget to crown the timber on the roof
Aye i recall someone saying there's a specific size thats Bob on for coach bolts. You got a toolstation part #?

You also got a recommendation for post hole digger and shovel?

Making a big order list just now :D - starts July.
 
Aye i recall someone saying there's a specific size thats Bob on for coach bolts. You got a toolstation part #?

You also got a recommendation for post hole digger and shovel?

Making a big order list just now :D - starts July.
- These have worked well, much lighter than the wooden Spear and Jackson ones:

- I then used this, but it is a bit wider than a usual grafter shovel. I THINK it is this one, I got it "in store" in an emergency when my other drainage shovel broke.
My brother loaned me a smaller grafter which was quite useful in addition to the above.

- This bar is critical too, as daft as it seems, lol. They do a bigger one; again, check in store.

- You will also want good quality string line and pins, don't try and fudge it with bits of offcut etc. You want to be able to bump the line accidentally without it resetting the entire dimensions :cry:

- Buy a bunch more clamps - the Rolson quick release ones. I think I have 4 and this is just enough, but 5 or 6 would have been useful.

- Get a visqueen big enough to cover your deck if you get caught by weather.

- Don't forget to buy your polytops for the fascias/soffits. Wickes do them but they are expensive.

- Multitool blades - just have a few on hand. You will need to trim the fascia down so nice large flat ones work well.

- Planer or Jigsaw blades - when trimming the OSB to match the roof exactly, you can do it neatly with a planer or butcher it with a jigsaw. I did the latter as I have lost my plane.

- Silicone - you'll need good quality silicone (plumbers gold or something) to fit the doors

- Packers - to fit the doors

- Sheet material handle - I didn't know these existed but apparently they're quite good.

- Twist nails - get 7 or 8 more packs than the build pack guided. His estimate is way off if you nail every hole on the splice plates.

- THIS exact drill. It is perfect for the holes in the floor beams. A spade bit had zero chance.

- Silver tape or another layer of vapour membrane. He used to put RhinoVent on backwards underneath his chipboard which I think is a bit odd/make belief idea. Just silver tape the PIR or fit a vapour control barrier between the PIR and the chipboard. His build pack still says the upside down RhinoVent idea.
 
Nice one... I also need to buy a new hammer/might treat myself if you have a recommendation
I've been using a Stanley fibreglass one for ages; which after using my brothers regular 20oz Stanley made me realise the error of my ways - so I'd say any 20oz that isn't fibreglass handled. I used a Stealmaster I think.

Rink shank nails are a nightmare to remove as well, so you might want to get the breaker bar set if you haven't got one.

I'm not sure if there is a specific hammer for polytops too but that is worth a google.
 
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I've been using a Stanley fibreglass one for ages; which after using my brothers regular 20oz Stanley made me realise the error of my ways - so I'd say any 20oz that isn't fibreglass handled. I used a Stealmaster I think.

Rink shank nails are a nightmare to remove as well, so you might want to get the breaker bar set if you haven't got one.

I'm not sure if there is a specific hammer for polytops too but that is worth a google.
This kind? Currently I only have a 5quid **** wickes hammer

 
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This kind? Currently I only have a 5quid **** wickes hammer

No the opposite - one that isn't anti vibe lol:

 
Ah cool.. Did you use a saw stand eg below or just circular saw it all? I've got an evolution mitre saw just never had a stand... I figure there's a lot of bits to cut so will buy it if worthwhile.

 
Ah cool.. Did you use a saw stand eg below or just circular saw it all? I've got an evolution mitre saw just never had a stand... I figure there's a lot of bits to cut so will buy it if worthwhile.

Ah yes I have that exact one. It was quite useful for cutting down the floor joists more than anything.
 
Reckon this is good for line and pins @dlockers ? Or just go the cheaper steel rebar way

 
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I saw he was suggesting polyurethane glue e.g. Below. I thought d4 caberdeck glue or similar would be preferred?


Ps which joist hangers did you use for the upside down ones for the roof... (not wanting to open that debate again!) the build pack references a toolstation part which has multiple sizes

 
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Reckon this is good for line and pins @dlockers ? Or just go the cheaper steel rebar way

I used the steel rebar'y things. If the kit above is more expensive I'd stick to tried and true. Just make sure you go a foot or two past your structure, don't be tempted to "peg" the corner.

I saw he was suggesting polyurethane glue e.g. Below. I thought d4 caberdeck glue or similar would be preferred?


Ps which joist hangers did you use for the upside down ones for the roof... (not wanting to open that debate again!) the build pack references a toolstation part which has multiple sizes

Yeah I use poly glue. I don't know the caberdeck but get what you mean RE: D4. This stuff foams up unlike any other glue I've used though.

On joist hangers I am pretty sure it is the 47x272. Wickes actually do a box of 50 which may work out cheaper.
 
P.S. Joist hangers are MISERABLE lol. You may want to rent a PPN....seriously. I am a right knuckledragger and can power through most things, but I really hated joist hangers.

A tip, because the hangers are bigger than the wood, is to use an angle grinder to cut the sides (Liam just bashes them down but he using like a 30 oz framing hammer lol). Your hands will thank you and it'll be a lot neater!
 
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