1930s Semi Refurb - Part 11 of ... (Summer House)
- Thread starter dlockers
- Start date
Day 12 -
Just isn't enough hours in the day! Managed to get the doors in - I now know heal and toe, lol. I'm not sure they are perfect but seem OK. I still need to put the gasket on the inside so fingers crossed we don't get some crazy gale force wind.
I also, finally, thank god, glued the roof and got the final roof trimmers on. It looks mighty fine. Just need to patch that final bit of OSB and then get the slate battens on. I think because of the height of the door, decking is a no brainer.
for scale, the doors are 3M bi-folds by 2M high.
Just isn't enough hours in the day! Managed to get the doors in - I now know heal and toe, lol. I'm not sure they are perfect but seem OK. I still need to put the gasket on the inside so fingers crossed we don't get some crazy gale force wind.
I also, finally, thank god, glued the roof and got the final roof trimmers on. It looks mighty fine. Just need to patch that final bit of OSB and then get the slate battens on. I think because of the height of the door, decking is a no brainer.
for scale, the doors are 3M bi-folds by 2M high.
Looks good. Is it a low threshold door? What's the gap to the bottom of the frame? I'm gonna probably put some decking infront of mine also. Bought loads of spare 3x4 due to minimum quantities and a couple extra rods.
Did you order doors before finishing the studwork etc?
Did you order doors before finishing the studwork etc?
Yeah the door itself is pretty low, I guess it's obvious when you think about it, but it's sitting on the beam and the 22mm chipboard, plus whatever ground you had to clear with the rods. So to "floor" level it's like 8 inches I guess! The internal threshold is like 25mm or maybe? I'll take a pic as I'm working from memory.
Definitely a decking job to avoid a giant step up. Which is good as I was anticipating major ground works to lower the level lol. Seems obvious now that the deck will be door cill height.
Also took this pic for you, as I had a few wobbles trying to understand it. If you go rubber4roofs you get the sure edge drip trim, which isn't really discussed in the videos I could find. There is a manual kicking about somewhere and someone gave some vague advice, but this seems to have worked really well -
Basically get soffits and fascias on, trim them down with multi tool
Then attach a slate batten to gutter side
The the r4r kit includes a plastic trim that nails to this
And then the roof flops over it.
It means you can tuck the guttering right under and you'll have no chance of water missing it or splashing over it.
You'll have to zoom in!!
Basically get soffits and fascias on, trim them down with multi tool
Then attach a slate batten to gutter side
The the r4r kit includes a plastic trim that nails to this
And then the roof flops over it.
It means you can tuck the guttering right under and you'll have no chance of water missing it or splashing over it.
You'll have to zoom in!!
Soldato
- Joined
- 4 Aug 2007
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- 21,979
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- Wilds of suffolk
some decent looking onions there
I know - jammy bloke. I have an allotment about 10 meters from that which is pure straw. I might ask him for a swap plus cash
I know - jammy bloke. I have an allotment about 10 meters from that which is pure straw. I might ask him for a swap plus cash
Is that an actual allotment in the image or just a neighbour's garden? Also, is that a gate from your garden into it (just behind the water but thing)
pet/peter rabbit could have fun.
you glued the membrane across the full roof surface - spent some time gluing down roofing felt yesterday glue was horribly runny
guess the roof edge is like this ? https://ukflatroofing.com/classicbond-trims/sure-edge-gutter-drip-trim-anthracite-grey
you glued the membrane across the full roof surface - spent some time gluing down roofing felt yesterday glue was horribly runny
guess the roof edge is like this ? https://ukflatroofing.com/classicbond-trims/sure-edge-gutter-drip-trim-anthracite-grey
Yep - super lucky to back onto allotments (the high snobiety type). The gate is onto the allotments. The plan was my girl would go to the school just through; but annoyingly we preferred the school up the busy road
Yeah exactly that- I probably paid over the odds but got it all from Rubber4roofs. It is exactly that, and that diagram is perfect to describe the slate batten approach. Makes a big difference. Guttering will be brilliant.
And yes we play find mr mcgregor all the time on the allotment
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No point on the floor as you'll have a vapour barrier/silver tape down (you'll be D4ing it to tape). For the roof, I glued the OSB3 to joists.
I'm in deep trouble if those don't work as I am probably ~£200 in -
SPAX Wirox T-STAR Plus Flooring Screw
Speed up your fastening jobs with these SPAX flooring screws. The screw head is specially designed for use with T-STAR Plus bits for a more secure fit - this means quicker, firmer and more efficient driving with no annoying bit slips.Flush screw insertion is easy with a countersunk head, and...
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Ah that makes sense. Presume you just used the 30min glue to for the roof to tie it to the rafters?No point on the floor as you'll have a vapour barrier/silver tape down (you'll be D4ing it to tape). For the roof, I glued the OSB3 to joists.
I'm in deep trouble if those don't work as I am probably ~£200 in -
I use them every instance I take up floorboards. Touch wood, not a single creak...yet...SPAX Wirox T-STAR Plus Flooring Screw
Speed up your fastening jobs with these SPAX flooring screws. The screw head is specially designed for use with T-STAR Plus bits for a more secure fit - this means quicker, firmer and more efficient driving with no annoying bit slips.Flush screw insertion is easy with a countersunk head, and...
Yeah I've got a box of those screws they're great
Yeah exactly -- I accidently bought 2.4x1.2 OSB3 but still whacked in loads of D4 between joints and the joists. Was walking all over it Saturday and it is solid.
Make sure you crown your roof timbers tho, I forgot, and have been pretty lucky; but if you end up using 2.4x1.2 non-T&G boards, any variance even minor will show through (as you'll be trimming to land on roof joists).
If I had my time again - assuming I got a nice square building to start from, I'd cut them to perfect length*, crown, clamp and bolt to each other (so they're perfectly flat), then toe nail/strap.
*and I'd really think about overhang, as 30cm is OK but doesn't really give you anything other than an aesthetic/place to put lights). I think next time I'd go at least 60 at the front so it's almost like a porch cover.
Make sure you crown your roof timbers tho, I forgot, and have been pretty lucky; but if you end up using 2.4x1.2 non-T&G boards, any variance even minor will show through (as you'll be trimming to land on roof joists).
If I had my time again - assuming I got a nice square building to start from, I'd cut them to perfect length*, crown, clamp and bolt to each other (so they're perfectly flat), then toe nail/strap.
*and I'd really think about overhang, as 30cm is OK but doesn't really give you anything other than an aesthetic/place to put lights). I think next time I'd go at least 60 at the front so it's almost like a porch cover.
Soldato
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- Beds
I believe you need to go inside and show us the dry space to prove that
I've lost the keysI believe you need to go inside and show us the dry space to prove that
So because of the skirting board debacle in the house yesterday, I thought I'd have a clear run at the garden room. Unfortunately not, but I did manage to get 2 or 3 sheets of 50mm into the walls. I need to buy myself a spray gun!
Plan to get the workshop tidied up today I think; that'll give me space to wire in the new SWA which I haven't bought yet.
Plan to cut the noggins, slot them onto the PIR and toenail in; saves me trying to do anything more accurate.
I also still need to bolt the roof rafters
Plan to get the workshop tidied up today I think; that'll give me space to wire in the new SWA which I haven't bought yet.
Plan to cut the noggins, slot them onto the PIR and toenail in; saves me trying to do anything more accurate.
I also still need to bolt the roof rafters
Remind me why it's 50mm into walls and 100mm into roof again? Is it to allow space for electrical back boxes? Surprised people haven't gone for 75mm etc.
For me cutting the 100mm insulation didn't seem all that terrible just with a handsaw.
For me cutting the 100mm insulation didn't seem all that terrible just with a handsaw.
Yeah I think there a bunch of folk that have a mental barrier on the PIR. It isn't that bad at all TBH, especially if you use a nice long panel saw.
The size is just what's necessary I think - most of the heat is floor and roof so 100mm. Walls don't lose that much so 50mm is sufficient. Is how I remember it anyway!