1930s Semi Refurb - Part 11 of ... (Summer House)

Yeah I think there a bunch of folk that have a mental barrier on the PIR. It isn't that bad at all TBH, especially if you use a nice long panel saw.

The size is just what's necessary I think - most of the heat is floor and roof so 100mm. Walls don't lose that much so 50mm is sufficient. Is how I remember it anyway!
I would probably just max it out really!

Have you planned your cable runs? Again I'd be tempted to get those in first and place the insulation over top. Dunno why - to get them deeper in the walls I guess?
 
I would probably just max it out really!

Have you planned your cable runs? Again I'd be tempted to get those in first and place the insulation over top. Dunno why - to get them deeper in the walls I guess?
I'm working on top of myself again - desperate to get the workshop empty so I can make space to run the wiring; which means getting the PIR out of there. The chap I am following runs his wires tight to the OSB in the roof for the lights; I'll probably pre-drill and come beneath as I can't get a drill up there now (another tip @Buffman - notch your roof joists before boarding). Wall wiring will go in front of insulation I think; as I am too late now :D

I also need to grab a reel of CAT6 from @doodah but my London days are all over the place ATM.
 
You're a babe, thank you. I think I need about 100m tho lol! It is to wire the entire place in.
Hmm roll A says 69m (nice) and the other says 54m. So maybe a bit tight, I do need a few 10s of metres still to finish up my runs. Let me know if you can precisely calculate needing, say, 75m :D
 
So because of the skirting board debacle in the house yesterday, I thought I'd have a clear run at the garden room. Unfortunately not, but I did manage to get 2 or 3 sheets of 50mm into the walls. I need to buy myself a spray gun!

Plan to get the workshop tidied up today I think; that'll give me space to wire in the new SWA which I haven't bought yet.

1VNVLE6.jpeg


Plan to cut the noggins, slot them onto the PIR and toenail in; saves me trying to do anything more accurate.

I also still need to bolt the roof rafters :o
Just looking at this pic, remind me are the upside down joist hangers for the roof only required for the part with the steel? Rest can be screwed or nailed?
 
Just looking at this pic, remind me are the upside down joist hangers for the roof only required for the part with the steel? Rest can be screwed or nailed?
I think some people go to town on them. I toe nailed all of mine as I had a bit of extra height available - so could toe nail even the bits on the steal (as it's on a bed of 2x4).

So yeah only on the steal unless you can toe nail.

I might put some hurricane straps on the off chance a big gust goes through the 3m door opening
 
I think some people go to town on them. I toe nailed all of mine as I had a bit of extra height available - so could toe nail even the bits on the steal (as it's on a bed of 2x4).

So yeah only on the steal unless you can toe nail.

I might put some hurricane straps on the off chance a big gust goes through the 3m door opening
When you say toe nail presume you mean nail at 45s from above? I'll see how many I've got I think i bought 20 but will only need about 4 for the steel :D.

I'm tempted to just put a couple screws in from below, and maybe strap every other beam.
 
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When you say toe nail presume you mean nail at 45s from above? I'll see how many I've got I think i bought 20 but will only need about 4 for the steel :D.

I'm tempted to just put a couple screws in from below, and maybe strap every other beam.
Yeah should be fine if it's toe nailed. The strap operates in a different force so if you have them, that's my bet. Screws under tension aren't great from what I've read, and the headers are only 2inch thick.

Every other beam sounds fine to me
 
Yeah should be fine if it's toe nailed. The strap operates in a different force so if you have them, that's my bet. Screws under tension aren't great from what I've read, and the headers are only 2inch thick.

Every other beam sounds fine to me
I think it's screws under shear is the main issue but yeah I'll make sure its pretty solid.


For your side edges did you use a 5" by 2"?

I realise that I'll have to cut a taper in the cladding to account for this and only just watched this video which indicates can use an 8by 2 and cut it down so you have a flat point. Oh well I don't have time to sort that in the delivery! Shame it's not in the build pack

 
I think it's screws under shear is the main issue but yeah I'll make sure its pretty solid.


For your side edges did you use a 5" by 2"?

I realise that I'll have to cut a taper in the cladding to account for this and only just watched this video which indicates can use an 8by 2 and cut it down so you have a flat point. Oh well I don't have time to sort that in the delivery! Shame it's not in the build pack

Yeah 5x2. I didnt' do any of that BS, lol. Will just do cladding at an angle
 
Day 13 and Day 14.5 (I think it is about this over several days)

Managed to get a Screwfix run in earlier as I had ran out of vapour barrier. That's all done now - although I have barriered over the magnet kit for the bifolds. I MUST REMEMBER TO RETRIEVE THE KIT!! lol.

Probably could have been tidier and more thoughtful here. Lighting circuit, right hand side of ring main, and 2 ethernet. I've terminated all of the other ethernet here, and the consumer unit will attach to the blocking I've put in. I've only got a mini CU so not going OTT here, just 2 circuits with a few fused spurs. I've just drilled access for the SWA, a 1.5T&E circuit for lights at the rear (I forgot to do them on the internal, so will run it externally), and ethernet.
dIdeag4.jpg


Some blocking for the future TV bracket. Hopefully this is about right, lol. I need to take some better reference measurements for future reference.
kx8dTVa.jpg


And all the spotlight holes cut. I used a 90mm boring drill which gave me just enough gap. I've not bothered with any fancy vapour barrier stuff here, once I cut the ceiling out I will maybe stick some silver tape up there... maybe.
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All done - the plan is to do a big lift on Wednesday (plasterboard) and skim Thursday. The cladding is coming on Monday.
 
Looking good! I have just read the tread, start to finish over the last couple of days when I've had time.

I took watches a lot of the Oakwood garden rooms stuff over lockdown. I was going to build one, but instead converted half of my garage. It's a shame his content stopped. I see he's changed his name, etc. I do wonder what happened there, did the worl dry up or something else?

For your cable runs, I'd be tempted to run the cables in some plastic pipe or similar, just in case you want to pull more through in the future or if you snag/pierce one in the future, it will save you having a nightmare fishing new ones through or removing plasterboard to access.

Tidy job so far, well done. Look forward to more updates!
 
Looking good! I have just read the tread, start to finish over the last couple of days when I've had time.

I took watches a lot of the Oakwood garden rooms stuff over lockdown. I was going to build one, but instead converted half of my garage. It's a shame his content stopped. I see he's changed his name, etc. I do wonder what happened there, did the worl dry up or something else?

I think he started pricing himself out of jobs tbh. He had a team of like...5 at one point. And it was still a full week build process...! He also started making more on his side gigs - the raffles thing must earn him a tidy income as he pushes them constantly. He also has a decent book of general building work by the sounds of it.

For your cable runs, I'd be tempted to run the cables in some plastic pipe or similar, just in case you want to pull more through in the future or if you snag/pierce one in the future, it will save you having a nightmare fishing new ones through or removing plasterboard to access.

Tidy job so far, well done. Look forward to more updates!
Hah yeah I always have that idea but have never bothered. I rewired the full 1930s house bar one room and haven't bothered either. I'll have bigger problems if ethernet/2.5T&E goes out of vogue :D
 
I think he started pricing himself out of jobs tbh. He had a team of like...5 at one point. And it was still a full week build process...! He also started making more on his side gigs - the raffles thing must earn him a tidy income as he pushes them constantly. He also has a decent book of general building work by the sounds of it.


Hah yeah I always have that idea but have never bothered. I rewired the full 1930s house bar one room and haven't bothered either. I'll have bigger problems if ethernet/2.5T&E goes out of vogue :D
Hah, I had the same thought when I did my garage office room. Basically couldn't be arsed and just wanted to get it finished! I had plenty of spares. Might be some useful stuff for your interior fit out in my garage office thread (https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/project-garage-office-workshop-thread.18932259/)
 
Hah, I had the same thought when I did my garage office room. Basically couldn't be arsed and just wanted to get it finished! I had plenty of spares. Might be some useful stuff for your interior fit out in my garage office thread (https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/project-garage-office-workshop-thread.18932259/)
Will take a look - I am considering doing a retrofit to the workshop which'll follow your build much more closely.

I've also got a 1.5m gap behind this one which I'm planning on building a storage shed - next year maybe!

R/TVTooHigh :(
Haha I didn't measure a thing - hoping whatever bracket I end up with is quite forgiving as I am definitely not a fan of neck ache lol.
 
Fyi I'd go for the socket 1metre off the floor for the tv. If you've got it around 1.5m by the looks of things it will be way too high. Particularly if that blocking is the centre point of the tv.
 
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