Soldato
I ride a 60t single peek ring now with an 11-23 for DC events. Would recommend going single ring at the front. 58t probably a good place to start, with an 11-28 at the back I found that was fine for sporting courses too.
Aero/Gains Thread
- Thread starter xdcx
- Start date
130BCD N10
Think I may go for a 56T only putting out 270W for the hour. Definitely wouldn't survive running a single ring for the sporting stuff I'm doing! Maybe for the quicker flatter stuff.
Soldato
Remember its more about chainline than pushing a big gear. The idea being for drivetrain efficiency you want to be in the middle of the cassette for the majority of time.
True true. Will keep my eye out and see what comes available
Id like to see some good data and research given to validate the efficiency and give some actual actual figures backed up by science!
This says riding a 24 rear compared to a 13 could save 1-2w for a 200-400w output so 0.25-1%. I haven’t read the whole journal referenced but they are some wishy washy figures.
https://www.cyclingpowerlab.com/DrivetrainEfficiency.aspx
This says riding a 24 rear compared to a 13 could save 1-2w for a 200-400w output so 0.25-1%. I haven’t read the whole journal referenced but they are some wishy washy figures.
https://www.cyclingpowerlab.com/DrivetrainEfficiency.aspx
Soldato
Theres a friction facts paper on chain line alone. Some parts covered in this bikeradar article. Some other stuff around BBs, Chains, Lubes etc in the friction fact link. I've got all the individual friction facts papers but not allowed to share. They basically cover every aspect of drivetrain and bike mechanics.
It's not exactly rocket science. You can see it in action if you have a half decent drivetrain, bike on workstand and in the middle of the cassette and spin the cranks and let go and you should see the cranks continue to spin for a bit. Do the same at the top of the block and you will not see the same spin.
Small margins but remember 3% is up to 10w over a 10.
http://xcterra.ru/FriFac/10_ways_to_increase_drivetrain_efficiency_4.pdf
https://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/friction-facts-free-speed-from-proper-shifting-44016/
It's not exactly rocket science. You can see it in action if you have a half decent drivetrain, bike on workstand and in the middle of the cassette and spin the cranks and let go and you should see the cranks continue to spin for a bit. Do the same at the top of the block and you will not see the same spin.
Small margins but remember 3% is up to 10w over a 10.
http://xcterra.ru/FriFac/10_ways_to_increase_drivetrain_efficiency_4.pdf
https://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/friction-facts-free-speed-from-proper-shifting-44016/
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Soldato
Can anyone recommend any good quality 40mm carbon wheels? Currently on 30mm that came with the bike, may sell and swap. Rode 50mm years ago and not keen in the wind so 40 should be perfect for me.
I am guessing you will be after clinchers if these are for general riding and not just racing. You'll also need decide if you can live with carbon brake track for everyday riding/training as well.
My mate just got a set of these - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/token-c45r-carbon-clincher-wheelset/
Heaps of people buying them locally apparently. Nobody echoes the bad review on Wiggle, first I have heard of such problems. Cycling Weekly gave them the thumbs up couple months back as well if you search around.
Fulcrum Quattro's are worth a look to see if you can get a pair at a decent price but if you have the cash to splash Zipp 303's I wouldn't hesitate to go for.
Hunt - https://www.huntbikewheels.com/coll...ero-tubular-road-wheelset-1379g-45deep-25wide
Zuus - http://www.zuus.co.uk/new-zuus-aero-38mm-carbon-clincher-road-wheelset-rim-brake/
Much cheaper alternative I guess, cannot comment on the quality comparison of these although the one guy I know with the 50's has rode them for 2 years without a problem and would buy again....
There is almost too much choice these days so get your criteria in place and your budget to narrow them down to which fits you and what you want them for.
Soldato
Clinchers with carbon brake track as I have now just the same weight or even lighter plus another 10-15mm.
One of the last TT of the season, biblical rain before the start but very windy and the roads mostly dried out.
Some dodgy car drivers, banged on the side of someone’s window when they forgot I was there.
305w, fastest time on the night and a 22:20, would have been close to a high 21 if it wasn’t for some delays at roundabouts/traffic/passing riders.
Some dodgy car drivers, banged on the side of someone’s window when they forgot I was there.
305w, fastest time on the night and a 22:20, would have been close to a high 21 if it wasn’t for some delays at roundabouts/traffic/passing riders.
@Thomas. PLease. what chainwax/ultasonic bath do you use?
Soldato
I use the standard teflon, mos2 and paraffin wax recipe for when I do a deep chain clean, then I top up with squirt wax. As for ultrasonic bath just an ebay special, similar to one of these, think i've got 2.5 or 3l capacity.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIGITAL-...hash=item2a58770e53:m:mc39XkS77W7J7TDXCdLSx8w
Soldato
White spirit if I can be bothered to set it up outside, or normally just a household degreaser and water. White spirit gives better results though.
289w for a 22:00 and 4th place yesterday.
22 seconds off my PB and 30w less so I reckon my slight position change from the new stem has worked to extent.
15seconds off 2nd place behind lads with trispoke/disc and NoPinz suits with my 38mm road race wheels and piece of turd Impsport skinsuit which I spent 15 mins trying to get the zip done on.... 45 seconds before my start time and I managed to do it, phew!
I will be more aero next year and hopefully back up to 320w for 10's after winter. I'm positive about it all at the moment that's for sure.
22 seconds off my PB and 30w less so I reckon my slight position change from the new stem has worked to extent.
15seconds off 2nd place behind lads with trispoke/disc and NoPinz suits with my 38mm road race wheels and piece of turd Impsport skinsuit which I spent 15 mins trying to get the zip done on.... 45 seconds before my start time and I managed to do it, phew!
I will be more aero next year and hopefully back up to 320w for 10's after winter. I'm positive about it all at the moment that's for sure.
Is anyone in a Velotec skinsuit?
I'll be in their Pro Aero suit next season hopefully and from my looking around on Google, it is both cheap and tests very well - https://www.cyclingweekly.com/group-tests/best-skinsuits-for-cycling-360975
I'll be in their Pro Aero suit next season hopefully and from my looking around on Google, it is both cheap and tests very well - https://www.cyclingweekly.com/group-tests/best-skinsuits-for-cycling-360975
Soldato
Technically, that's not legal under BC rules, not sure about CTT.
If you're not wearing pre-approved club colours, you can wear any solid colour as long as it's not black. I think you'd get away with the fluro yellow one even though it's not strictly a solid colour. You will get moaned at for wearing black.