BMW and M Power Owners

I will be test driving the below today.

https://usedcars.bmw.co.uk/vehicle/201804035182100

It's now been reduced to a more reasonable price, which should cost me no more than £9k with the trade in.

This is the other car I'm considering:

https://www.gssgarage.co.uk/used-bmw-5-series-harrow-middlesex-1666967

Pros:
1) 12 months BMW Approved Used warranty
2) Very local to me (in case of any issues)
3) Lower price (by £700 without any negotiations)
4) Harman Kardon against BMW Advanced audio
5) Electric sunroof
6) Fresh MOT (under new rules)
7) Full firmware/software update (probably)
8) 3 months newer (Jul '15 vs Apr '15)

Cons:
1) Higher mileage - an extra ~8000 miles
2) No HUD
3) No electric seats
4) Worse colour combo (arguably)
5) Could be other options missing that aren't listed

Other than that, they're fairly similar spec wise.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
12 month warranty is very useful to have. The HUD doesn't do a huge amount tbh, you could live without. Electric seats - depends if other people regularly drive your car. I reckon the AUC on is the better bet.
 
You need to take the mileage into account if you are going to extend the warranty, if it passes 60k before the AUC runs out the price is silly.

The non BMW supplied car has the nicer colour combo I would try and knock it down more using the BMW supplied car as a bargining tool. The extended warranty is around £1100 a year, so 18k is what I would be aiming for to bring it in line with the other car.
 
Dangerous Dave said:
You need to take the mileage into account if you are going to extend the warranty, if it passes 60k before the AUC runs out the price is silly.

The non BMW supplied car has the nicer colour combo I would try and knock it down more using the BMW supplied car as a bargining tool. The extended warranty is around £1100 a year, so 18k is what I would be aiming for to bring it in line with the other car.
Click to expand...

I thought the AUC warranty was unlimited mileage?

The car would be on ~61k miles at the end of the first year. I'm intending to keep it for around 3.5 years.
 
Mr Krugga said:
I thought the AUC warranty was unlimited mileage?

The car would be on ~61k miles at the end of the first year. I'm intending to keep it for around 3.5 years.
Click to expand...
It is but if you want to take out the BMW insured warranty in a year when AUC warranty ends, over 60k miles and the price jumps quite a bit.
 
Should have explained it better, if you extend the warranty after 60k the price is significantly more expensive.

If you renew before 60k and take the monthly option the price won’t increase as the car passes 60k.
 
Dangerous Dave said:
Should have explained it better, if you extend the warranty after 60k the price is significantly more expensive.

If you renew before 60k and take the monthly option the price won’t increase as the car passes 60k.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that makes more sense. If I was to extend the warranty just before the 60k mark, say 11 months into the ownership, would I lose the 1 month of AUC warranty or would the insured warranty start after the previous cover expired?

[TW]Fox said:
Almost certainly not to be fair. They never do this a routine thing.

They both have electric seats btw as all the LCI cars do. The upgraded option is memory seats but it doesn't look like either car has that.
Click to expand...

Thanks Fox, I did notice the seats were partly electric when I first went to see the car. Lack of memory seats won't bother me too much as I will be the sole driver of the car for the foreseeable future. I presume there's only 3 types of seats in the F10 LCI, that is standard, sports and comfort?

Which car do you think is a better value? Or should I hang around a little longer lurking for something more reasonable to come up?
 
Mr Krugga said:
Thanks, that makes more sense. If I was to extend the warranty just before the 60k mark, say 11 months into the ownership, would I lose the 1 month of AUC warranty or would the insured warranty start after the previous cover expired?
Click to expand...

Actually I have recently renewed mine a good 6 weeks prior to the expiration of my factory warranty as my car is also a 2015. It will run from the expiration of the factory warranty but they took payment at the time.


Thanks Fox, I did notice the seats were partly electric when I first went to see the car. Lack of memory seats won't bother me too much as I will be the sole driver of the car for the foreseeable future. I presume there's only 3 types of seats in the F10 LCI, that is standard, sports and comfort?

Which car do you think is a better value? Or should I hang around a little longer lurking for something more reasonable to come up?
Click to expand...

The independent has the better car but the auc is better value. The independent car is basically 20k once you've added warranty.
 
I've had the usual rough running at low RPM and slow pickup caused by bad inner VANOS seals. Considering a full set of pattern VANOS solenoids with seals is only twice the price of the actual seals I figured I might as well replace the units if I'm going to the trouble of pulling them out.

Tools required: Tools required: Socket wrench, medium extension, short extension, long 10mm socket, 10mm spanner, flat-blade screwdrivers, hammer, long-nose pliers, drift.

gkUWt2B.jpg


Here's where we start. A nice N62 with dodgy solenoids.

NsNiWSl.jpg


The first things you want to remove are the engine cover, air-cleaner lid, air-cleaner element, intake tubing, and the MAF connector. 10mm socket for the engine cover, flat blade screwdriver for the jubilee clips holding the intake pipes on.

Let's see what we can see. The left-hand side (looking at the engine from the front) looks nice and easy.

v6LTkTG.jpg


Hmm, the right-hand side looks less so. The first thing we're going to want to remove is that clip holding the metal pipe on. 10mm socket for this. Make sure you don't drop the clip as getting back with all the panels under the engine would be a challenge.

wG4AlaF.jpg


Next, we want to leaver that wire in the middle of the picture out of its clips. This prevents us removing the electrical connector from one of the solenoids.

WV9SnCd.jpg


Once that's out of the way, take your long 10mm socket and take off the bolt that holds the solenoid retaining clip to the car. Keep hold of the clip with your long-nose pliers so you don't drop it.

This is the clip removed.

dfHyYak.jpg


Next, reach down and remove the electrical connector from the lower solenoid. You need to press in the metal retaining wire then slide the connector off the solenoid. Once that's done, use a screwdriver to lever the solenoid out of the head. It will take a bit of force but not so much that the solenoid will break.

Pic is of the upper solenoid because I couldn't get a good picture of the lower one due to the pipework.

r3vhmgh.jpg


Here's the solenoid removed from the car:

hJvIvho.jpg


You will notice that the outer seal is not on the solenoid. On all 4 it stayed stuck in the aperture. Using your fingers, pull it out and be careful not to drop it inside the engine.

Here's the new solenoid:

q0MVrRZ.jpg


The outer seal you're going to want to remove and put in to the aperture where you just removed the old one. If you try to install the solenoid with the seal attached it will pinch on the head and be ruined. Use some engine oil to lubricate it.

You will be able to push the new solenoid in to the head a fair way but not all the way. This is where the drift comes in. Just give it a few light taps. No need to beat on it.

e8fbLBO.jpg


Repeat for the upper solenoid on that side and then lead over to the other side of the car.

This side is much easier. One clip removed:

oZzmnSF.jpg


First solenoid fitted and clip removed from the second:

g8oNUkV.jpg


Use the same drift method to install the new solenoids and you're done. This took me around 2 hours but the hold up was mainly caused by trying to work out what to take off the right-hand side to allow access.

The left. Happy days:

3KJenoH.jpg


The right. Not so much:

8BJDVr0.jpg


Button it all up and you;re done. Fire up the car and let it get up to temperature to make sure you have no oil leaks.
 
Rilot said:
I've had the usual rough running at low RPM and slow pickup caused by bad inner VANOS seals. Considering a full set of pattern VANOS solenoids with seals is only twice the price of the actual seals I figured I might as well replace the units if I'm going to the trouble of pulling them out.

Tools required: Tools required: Socket wrench, medium extension, short extension, long 10mm socket, 10mm spanner, flat-blade screwdrivers, hammer, long-nose pliers, drift.

gkUWt2B.jpg


Here's where we start. A nice N62 with dodgy solenoids.

NsNiWSl.jpg


The first things you want to remove are the engine cover, air-cleaner lid, air-cleaner element, intake tubing, and the MAF connector. 10mm socket for the engine cover, flat blade screwdriver for the jubilee clips holding the intake pipes on.

Let's see what we can see. The left-hand side (looking at the engine from the front) looks nice and easy.

v6LTkTG.jpg


Hmm, the right-hand side looks less so. The first thing we're going to want to remove is that clip holding the metal pipe on. 10mm socket for this. Make sure you don't drop the clip as getting back with all the panels under the engine would be a challenge.

wG4AlaF.jpg


Next, we want to leaver that wire in the middle of the picture out of its clips. This prevents us removing the electrical connector from one of the solenoids.

WV9SnCd.jpg


Once that's out of the way, take your long 10mm socket and take off the bolt that holds the solenoid retaining clip to the car. Keep hold of the clip with your long-nose pliers so you don't drop it.

This is the clip removed.

dfHyYak.jpg


Next, reach down and remove the electrical connector from the lower solenoid. You need to press in the metal retaining wire then slide the connector off the solenoid. Once that's done, use a screwdriver to lever the solenoid out of the head. It will take a bit of force but not so much that the solenoid will break.

Pic is of the upper solenoid because I couldn't get a good picture of the lower one due to the pipework.

r3vhmgh.jpg


Here's the solenoid removed from the car:

hJvIvho.jpg


You will notice that the outer seal is not on the solenoid. On all 4 it stayed stuck in the aperture. Using your fingers, pull it out and be careful not to drop it inside the engine.

Here's the new solenoid:

q0MVrRZ.jpg


The outer seal you're going to want to remove and put in to the aperture where you just removed the old one. If you try to install the solenoid with the seal attached it will pinch on the head and be ruined. Use some engine oil to lubricate it.

You will be able to push the new solenoid in to the head a fair way but not all the way. This is where the drift comes in. Just give it a few light taps. No need to beat on it.

e8fbLBO.jpg


Repeat for the upper solenoid on that side and then lead over to the other side of the car.

This side is much easier. One clip removed:

oZzmnSF.jpg


First solenoid fitted and clip removed from the second:

g8oNUkV.jpg


Use the same drift method to install the new solenoids and you're done. This took me around 2 hours but the hold up was mainly caused by trying to work out what to take off the right-hand side to allow access.

The left. Happy days:

3KJenoH.jpg


The right. Not so much:

8BJDVr0.jpg


Button it all up and you;re done. Fire up the car and let it get up to temperature to make sure you have no oil leaks.
Click to expand...
I've had a few jobs on my old 911 that were like that, it made me chuckle :).
 
Rilot said:
Bingo!
I've always thought that the E63/64's wheels are a little lost inside the arches. Only small ones mind (15mm at the back and 10mm at the front).
Click to expand...

I agree. Think the ones you've added look pretty good.

Btw - if they're your fingers and hands in the solenoid replacement, man do you have proper sausage fingers!
 
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