BMW and M Power Owners

ShivP said:
Will that dial control whether AC turns on/off as well?

I am going to give it a go again with the AC button, I really think if the AC is turned off, it should be off...
Click to expand...

That dial will control the temperature of the air it's blowing out of the dash vents.

If you don't want cold air blowing out of the dash vents, don't set it to blow cold air out of the dash vents.

Leave the AC on (let it sort out whether it needs to be running or not at any given time) and set the dash dial to the middle (or slightly warmer if you prefer) and it'll be exactly what you want.
 
ShivP said:
ambient temperature air blowing in my face whilst waiting in traffic
Click to expand...

This can't happen without the system working to make it happen though - the 'ambient' air from the vent has come from a variety of sources including the engine bay, which is not the same temperature is the air outside..
 
All of the above makes sense.
However, thinking about a regular non-climate controlled car, if I want non-'actively cooled' (AC) air blown at me, I set the dial to max cold, and turn the AC off. This will directly blow air from outside (or engine bay) into my face, and NOT cool or dehumidfy this air. It won't heat it at all.

To achieve the same in the BMW, I set the dial vent to cool, turn the AC off, yet the AC remains on. If I set the vent dial to the middle, how am I sure that this air is not being slightly warmed or cooled? It may decide that the middle dial setting is warmer than the air is currently in the car at present...

It seems that the BMW system just works very differently, and decides itself whether the compressor should be on or not, regardless of what the driver selects...
 
ShivP said:
However, thinking about a regular non-climate controlled car
Click to expand...

You need to stop doing that, as you don't have one of those.

ShivP said:
To achieve the same in the BMW, I set the dial vent to cool, turn the AC off, yet the AC remains on. If I set the vent dial to the middle, how am I sure that this air is not being slightly warmed or cooled? It may decide that the middle dial setting is warmer than the air is currently in the car at present...
Click to expand...

Leave the dial in the centre and switch the air conditioning off if you really want to do that, but the problem here is that your car has climate control - you set it to the temperature you wish the cabin to be and it works to do that using a variety of sources.

ShivP said:
It seems that the BMW system just works very differently, and decides itself whether the compressor should be on or not, regardless of what the driver selects...
Click to expand...

The compressor is off if you switch the function off using the button. If you absolutely want to do that, this button will do it. The discussion now is whether you should want to do that or not :D


What you really should do is just set the system to somewhere between 20c and 21c, move the dial in the middle to the centre, and leave the whole thing alone. If you want the window open, open it - but don't worry about the climate control system. The whole point is it just sits there in the background and just works. The fuel consumption penalty is not worth thinking about.
 
Last edited:
ShivP said:
All of the above makes sense.
However, thinking about a regular non-climate controlled car, if I want non-'actively cooled' (AC) air blown at me, I set the dial to max cold, and turn the AC off. This will directly blow air from outside (or engine bay) into my face, and NOT cool or dehumidfy this air. It won't heat it at all.

To achieve the same in the BMW, I set the dial vent to cool, turn the AC off, yet the AC remains on. If I set the vent dial to the middle, how am I sure that this air is not being slightly warmed or cooled? It may decide that the middle dial setting is warmer than the air is currently in the car at present...

It seems that the BMW system just works very differently, and decides itself whether the compressor should be on or not, regardless of what the driver selects...
Click to expand...

All climate controlled cars will decide themselves whether the compressor needs to be running or not, you're only encountering problems because you're trying to make it behave as if it's not a climate controlled system.

Why worry about whether it's slightly cooling or warming the air at any given moment? It makes no difference to you what it's doing behind the scenes.

Stick it in Auto, select a comfortable overall temperature like 20-21C, adjust the dash dial to a point that you like the temperature of the air it's blowing at you from the dash and then leave it alone. If you prefer it to blow slightly cooler or warmer air at you, just tweak the dash dial a bit.
 
I'm getting a massive hankering for a change of completely unnecessary third car helped by the fact that I can't really use the MX5 these days as we need three seats. It's all @paradigm 's fault. I was looking around at what people were looking to buy in a similar situation on another forum and his 440i cabriolet really took my eye. So much so that I've not really stopped thinking about the idea since. Cab or coupe, it seems to tick the boxes perfectly for me.

I want a comfy cruiser for family duties and something that I can enjoy when riding solo. I keep my cars for ages so it may well be my last opportunity to get a car with more than 4-cylinders as well. I also love the look of the thing, it just looks right proportionally.

I keep going full circle on the idea because it is a big splurge considering I'll always have a run of the mill C-segment estate while I'm in my current job... then again maybe that is the reason to get something nice for the weekend?

What I really need you guys to do is to put me off with tales of eye watering running costs but, and this is where you can all laugh and give a shake of the head, just how much can it cost to run if it lives in the garage and only does a couple of thousand miles a year?
 
Last edited:
lordrobs said:
just how much can it cost to run if it lives in the garage and only does a couple of thousand miles a year?
Click to expand...
This is nearly what my M3 does. It sits unused sometimes weeks at a time, then some weeks I'm doing the nursery run and others going to Heathrow and back, or Cheshire and back (from Gloucester/Cheltenham area). Never had an issue with it in nearly 3 years, and no bills outside of regular running costs.
 
lordrobs said:
What I really need you guys to do is to put me off with tales of eye watering running costs but, and this is where you can all laugh and give a shake of the head, just how much can it cost to run if it lives in the garage and only does a couple of thousand miles a year?
Click to expand...

I’ll only do 4-6k miles in my Boxster.


The majority of the cost comes from insurance, tax, servicing and consumables.


So really, it depends on whether the car you’re buying has had the consumables recently done, or if you’ll need them done in the near future.



I needed 4x tyres on mine when I got it, plus a major service, but I built that into my offer.


In all, I spent £4,000 on it within the first 3 months. Insurance was £1100 for me.



It really depends on whether you find a car with it done or not.
 
ShivP said:
This is what it appears to do. If I have the dash control dial on cold, and the temp set to say 21°, it will chuck cold air at me with the windows down.
Click to expand...
have you changed the fan 'intensity' - is that still an issue - excessive fan noise /max-power, that needs taming in auto


MPPSk exhaust is that just for 3rd parties - the noise that counts is sitting inside the car, in 3rd, full beans upwards of 4500 rpm
 
Has anyone gone from an e46 3 series to a late 00s 1 series? Will it be a downgrade in terms of interior quality (tech aside), and how is the 3l engine and manual gearbox in this generation of 1 series? I am looking at 135s and I have a 330ci at the moment.
 
almoststew1990 said:
Has anyone gone from an e46 3 series to a late 00s 1 series? Will it be a downgrade in terms of interior quality (tech aside), and how is the 3l engine and manual gearbox in this generation of 1 series? I am looking at 135s and I have a 330ci at the moment.
Click to expand...

Get a 2010 onwards 135i for the N55 engine. It’s more reliable :-)

Manual box is great but you need to ditch the clutch delay valve for a better shift - it otherwise feels a little lethargic on changes with little to no clutch feel.
 
[TW]Fox said:
They are excellent cars. It's a better value, higher specification and slightly larger 5 Series. The only downside is that the looks are not something everyone likes, but if you don't mind how they look its arguably a better choice than 5 Series.

They really are quite big though.
Click to expand...
I like the look of them so that doesn't phase me although I'm a bit concerned whether my dogs will fit in the boot with the slopped roof without seeing one in person.

I've also been looking at the previous gen 535D Touring, in particular a 2015 model that has a good spec and only 50K miles on the clock.

Are the BMW extended warranties good? On paper they seem to be and the top level on the 535D is £90 a monthi Inc breakdown cover.
 
Last edited:
Sirrel Squirrel said:
I like the look of them so that doesn't phase me although I'm a bit concerned whether my dogs will fit in the boot with the slopped roof without seeing one in person.
Click to expand...

The boot is really big - so its likely they'll fit. You can easily fit a Labrador in one, for example.


Sirrel Squirrel said:
I've also been looking at the previous gen 535D Touring, in particular a 2015 model that has a good spec and only 50K miles on the clock.
Click to expand...

These are also great cars - I had a 2 530d for almost a decade. The 535d isn't much better than the 530d and there are stories about it being a bit less reliable than the 530d, so I'd probably look there instead unless you were going down the route of having the warranty. It is worth remembering though that these cars are getting old now.


Sirrel Squirrel said:
Are the BMW extended warranties good? On paper they seem to be and the top level on the 535D is £90 a monthi Inc breakdown cover.
Click to expand...

It's excellent.
 
Last edited:
Sirrel Squirrel said:
Are the BMW extended warranties good? On paper they seem to be and the top level on the 535D is £90 a monthi Inc breakdown cover.
Click to expand...
It's an excellent warranty, and also covers wear and tear failures (NOT consumables) for the first 100,000 miles as well. I've had it on my F80 since the AUC expired and called on it a few times. It's been no hassle.
 
Hi all,

I am looking around to see if i can find a, i currently own a 120d M Sport E82 with the N47 engine,

The 2 series 220d 2.0 (190bhp) - F22 , are these a possible option as they seem to be the next phase , slightly renewed, not sure what the engines transmission and gearbox on them are like,

Do they have any timing chain notifications on models around that are serious ? Either the 218d (150) or the 220d (190) models - the launch year is 2014 - 2021 , i hear the models in 2014 - 2015 had issues with timing chains they improved this? improved after 2015 is this correct?

what about the gearbox, clutch in these, any better than some of their older gen cars?


I think the engine number for the 220d 190 is B47D20A when it is a 2015 onwards model
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom