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Damaged 3080fe rear cap (with a cracking ending)

Nvidia warranty page for Geforce FE and Quadro cards says the following:

WHAT DOES THIS WARRANTY NOT COVER?
Any problems that do not relate specifically to a manufacturing defect or hardware product failure, including, but not limited to, problems caused by abuse, misuse, negligence, act of God (such as flood), use of the Warranted Product other than in accordance with any operating manuals or other technical literature supplied with the Warranted Product, or use of the Warranted Product with software not supplied with the Warranted Product.
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Taking the cover off is not necessarily abuse, misuse or negligence. Is it use other than in accordance with any operating manuals or other technical literature supplied? Was there a warranty document supplied with the card that goes into more detail?

Based on this wording, I would push them further.

use of the Warranted Product with software not supplied with the Warranted Product
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Eh??? Like Windows, or games?
 
willhub said:
If the card is working correct with the broken part, why is the broken part there in the first place?
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no_1_dave said:
If it works fine just ignore it
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The part might well be there to smooth out ripple or similar in the power supply (for example sake). While it might still work, you've no way of knowing if you're stressing other components of the card more & might be hastening a premature failure. If this component helps the card make the jump from 2-3 years to 5-10 years of service life (say), would you not be rolling the dice a bit too much here?

There are engineers whose job it is to redesign circuit boards to use the minimum count of components. If the Bill of Materials can be reduced per card, that's pure profit. So, any component on the card that's busted will likely be missed in some way.
 
Cyber-Mav said:
broken part is there to sting customers if they take the cooler off. get out of warranty free card.
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I don't think that would be the case, if it was I'm sure Nvidia could be in a lot of trouble, and I'm sure you could use imaging techniques to see the PCB without taking the cooler off that would reveal this.
 
Benass said:
As I said, it's like a vehicle With 10 wheels, one does u can still drive.

Soldering Iron easy 2 min job. Do not do it yourself, this is not a pcb to practice On.
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You're right. I have made this sound too easy. The analogy to a 10 wheels vehicle is apt - the remaining 9 wheels will keep the vehicle running, but will wear out faster and/or will respond poorly under corner-cases.

If you're competent with a soldering iron and have the right equipment, this is a 2 minute job. If not, get someone who is competent and has the gear.

As a minimum you'll need a quality fine tipped soldering iron, some solder, some liquid flux. You may need hot-air as well to warm the board depending on how powerful your soldering iron is.
 
0h_no_not_again said:
You're right. I have made this sound too easy. The analogy to a 10 wheels vehicle is apt - the remaining 9 wheels will keep the vehicle running, but will wear out faster and/or will respond poorly under corner-cases.

If you're competent with a soldering iron and have the right equipment, this is a 2 minute job. If not, get someone who is competent and has the gear.

As a minimum you'll need a quality fine tipped soldering iron, some solder, some liquid flux. You may need hot-air as well to warm the board depending on how powerful your soldering iron is.
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You will most definitely on a GPU vrm. Just a soldering iron by itself won’t be enough unless you have a crazy high wattage one (200w+) and even then it may struggle. Will re-flow pretty easily with some decent solder on there once it’s removed.

The vrm power plane just soaks heat far too easily. The area will need preheating most likely.
 
His problem is his reason for RMA and what he knows. This was answered early on in the thread, just run the thing.

Current situation - knows something is wrong, can't RMA because then he grasses himself up for taking the card apart.

So just run it. Because the following will then happen:

Worst case scenario, the card artefacts or is very unstable = genuine reason to RMA the card without letting on you've already had it apart. Because the OP did not do this to the card, he or she says the card was like this when they took it apart and seems genuine. So it isn't wrong because if the OP is telling the truth, the card was defective already. The card is then repaired or replaced.

Best case scenario, the card just works for years.

I wouldn't be going anywhere near it with a soldering iron, I'd be just running it. Leave as is, RMA if something does happen.
 
I hope that didn't break due to heat. With the back of the card running close to 100C due to the memory temps there is a possibility of some components cracking or getting damaged under stress. Brings into question the longevity of these cards.
 
fs123 said:
I hope that didn't break due to heat. With the back of the card running close to 100C due to the memory temps there is a possibility of some components cracking or getting damaged under stress. Brings into question the longevity of these cards.
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Never considered that as a thing. From a cursory google it seems that this type isn't prone to cracking from high temps (it's the smaller MLCCs that do). Not saying it's not possible but just not highly reported.

@0h_no_not_again have you anything to say on this? You seemed to know your caps quite a lot from your reply.
 
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