Fire Thread! - Stoves, Wood, Axes, Chainsaws

[{SAS}TB]

That would work but ensure you have a decent air gap between the cement board and timber

Thanks

 

[zarnage]

So been out and measured up - it's 5" internal diameter outlet on the stove

Currently thinking a 45° vitreous pipe out the back. Short length through the (to be installed panel) with whatever heatproof surround.

Another 45° stove pipe angle. Stove pipe to twin wall adapter then twin wall in the vertical

Something like

As Nathan mentioned TW is best, single skin pipework isn't built for external use, not only would the flue have cold temps, but the joints will break over time/seasons. I would also have TW as the pipe that passes through the panel. Ideally to the stove, I know you mentioned gaining heat, but having TW to the stove is structurally more sound as it anchors to the stove.

Also bend '3' should be a 135 deg tee piece, unless you clean it often, else the soot will build up on bend 1 and 3 making the diameter smaller.

I didnt see what the panel will be made off, but the TW pipes weights a lot, so needs good fixing.

 

[{SAS}TB]

Thanks. The panel is, effectively similar to a fence panel, do not structural really.
I could run some beefier timber behind the panel (out of sight) between the main columns.

I've come (back) round (again) to twin wall but now considering straight up out of the top of the stove and through the roof with a flashing kit. But similar issue the main structural / weight bearing element would be the roof and the twin wall "hung" from the roof

My head's spinning lol

Sone of the suppliers do a free design service. May whizz them the dims and a sketch and see what they suggest.

 

[zarnage]

In short runs, like single storey. Straight up is better, it removes most of/if not all the offset, so the draw is better. Its usually cheaper, as you dont need as many brackets, telescopic lengths or 45 degs etc.

Also, although its hung using a rafter support, a lot of the weight can transfer down to the stove. What you do have to watch is, if the stove isnt a good enough anchor, that the system pivots at the roof bracket in high winds. In short runs, this usually is not an issue.

 

[Roady]

I know @xdcx (can't seem to tag him anymore!?) and I spoke before about felling/clearing kit and we'd also talked about mulchers. I'm revisiting and am after something fairly small not really for felling clearing but related if anyone is aware of and has one / any recommendations?

Not for clearing woodland branches like a real mulcher, but more for brush and chopping up garden waste, then could compost, but also considering the more woody stuff having a way of storing & drying it, maybe compressing and making some kinda home made briquettes/hot blocks is possible? So a 'garden waste' shredder type of clearer which is also capable of doing some brush/light mulching I guess.

• We can take it to the tip, but with an 11 mile round trip (easily an hours drive through the damn city) and only a fiesta it's not worth it - waste of time & fuel.
• The 'green bags' our local council make available are getting harder to get and costing more. Have to now 'pre-order' them online to pickup from the library in town and then £5 for a roll of 5. Literally £1 for a crappy, easily tearing green bit of plastic bin liner! When most times we'll be filling a couple with grass cuttings every other week, then 3-4 others with garden waste every month or two when I get the hedge trimmer out. If you put any more than 10 bags out they don't collect them...
• Could get a 'brown bin' for garden waste, but they're a 12 month service package at nearly £100 cost. Wouldn't need it in the winter when things are not growing! Bin is too small for us to do much with other than grass trimmings, barely bigger than 2 green bags collected bi-weekly.
• I started piling a bunch of it up the last few years to semi compost but it's too woody so is not composting fast enough. I could sacrifice more space for composting, but seems silly to do so.
• I easily can't bonfire - not quite enough space and get complaints (housing estate).
• Have got one of the 'dustbin' type burners I've been burning it on. Smokes a treat so do it on cold autumn days when the smoke isn't a problem for others. But it takes a while to clear any decent quantity and feels wrong to be burning it 'to get rid of it' when I could be burning it for warmth in the winter somehow!
• Small stove so the work cutting it up into footlongs, drying and compacting them enough to load them into it is a chore and takes a lot of space. We're doing that already with offcuts, probably a dozen large containers in the garage, but shredding/mulching them would store more and also make the smaller spikey stuff usable (I've got a Pyracantha hedge & the neighbours jungle is Blackthorns and Berberis)

Any suggestions? Whenever I look at mulchers they're £2000 and a massive thing for clearing thicker stuff. After more of a 'garden waste' type thing, maybe battery powered for portability, or even something powered by hand rather than something too overkill. My fingers/arms from 5-6 hours of secateur use to green bag things would happily power a 'manual mulcher'!

 

[sovietspybob]

First time posting in this thread, have had a stove for 2-3 years but it hasn’t seen much use since we have a very young family.

It’s a 5kw Stovey, they’re not made any more but it’s a nice bit of kit. Good build quality and aesthetic.

We’re semi detached but when I replaced the lounge floor (yet to burn the old one ) I installed a duct from outside to the back of the stove. Glue goes up the chimney.

We’ve never had a stove before or really know anybody with one so not too clued up on best use.

I’ve a lot of untreated, dry timber stock piled in the garage from various building projects. At least 1 ton and have therefore never burned actual logs in it. Just bits of old floorboard (unpainted), off cuts of kiln dried CLS, etc

This burns quite quickly, is there a good technique to burning this type of wood? I was warned not to put too much in the stove at once as it burns hotter than logs so can cause glass to crack? Is that true?

I’ve always struggled with keeping the glass clean, it soots up very quickly, is this my fuel/technique or typical?

The main reason we’ve only used it a handful of times each winter is the fear of the kids (4 kids all 6 and under) burning themselves. Does anybody use a stove with a young family? What’s your set up?

Hoping the stove can shave a fair chunk off our gas usage this winter!

Cheers.

I bought a nice big fire guard for ours and screwed it to the wall, we've used it since my daughter was born, ours is like this one so you can easily still open the door to put more logs in.

If you're burning soft wood offcuts they'll burn really quickly when you start burning proper logs they last a lot longer. I'll burn off cuts just to get the fire going sometimes but you'd be forever topping it up if you wanted to burn just that.

Check the controls of the stove, it should have at least 2, one is for air from underneath the fire and the other from the top. once it gets upto temp you only want air coming from the top and not underneath when burning wood, that should then work with the 'air wash' system most stoves have to keep the glass clean. It's well worth getting a stove thermometer so you're keeping it at the correct temperature as that makes a big difference to efficiency and stopping it all taring and sooting up, they're magnetic and just stick on the flue just above the stove.

I always clean the glass before each use though, make up a paste with some left over ash using a damp cloth and it comes off really easily.

Also i had this lot delivered a week or so ago from my usual guy, need to get it stacked up in the log stores now.

 

[{SAS}TB]

In short runs, like single storey. Straight up is better, it removes most of/if not all the offset, so the draw is better. Its usually cheaper, as you dont need as many brackets, telescopic lengths or 45 degs etc.

Also, although its hung using a rafter support, a lot of the weight can transfer down to the stove. What you do have to watch is, if the stove isnt a good enough anchor, that the system pivots at the roof bracket in high winds. In short runs, this usually is not an issue.

Brill, thanks

Will take a look at what's needed and get a shopping list together

Do you have to use a telescopic length? And what situations are they used in?

Any suggestions / recommendations on suppliers ? (Or any to avoid!)

Cheers

 

[Gav_r26]

Chopped up and split a trailer of wood to fill the store ready for winter. I say split, but its so dry it split itself when it was cut up!



Still plenty to go at!



Bit more needed to fill it up. Not got time for this neat stacking malarkey though

 

[Roady]

Also i had this lot delivered a week or so ago from my usual guy, need to get it stacked up in the log stores now.

Looks nice dry stuff! How much are you paying for that?

Also is that a some kinda narrow gauge rails?! Handy for hauling wood around if you have something on it!? #jealous

 

[sovietspybob]

Looks nice dry stuff! How much are you paying for that?

Also is that a some kinda narrow gauge rails?! Handy for hauling wood around if you have something on it!? #jealous

That was £120 for an old skool long bed Hulix pickup load, he'd just put his prices up 2 weeks before i ordered as it was £110 last time. I tend to go back to the same guy as it is actually seasoned unlike what other people try and sell as 'seasoned', i still like to try and keep it 12 months if i can though but if i need to i know i can burn stuff from this guy straight away.

And yeah railway there to move stuff around, i've got a thread about it here! https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/garden-railway.18890402/

 

[zarnage]

Brill, thanks

Will take a look at what's needed and get a shopping list together

Do you have to use a telescopic length? And what situations are they used in?

Any suggestions / recommendations on suppliers ? (Or any to avoid!)

Cheers

The telescopic is just an adjustable length, it wouldn't be needed if you go top exit and through the roof, but on your first diagram it would be between bend 1 and 3.

Like any product there is a certain level of build quality, on Tw this is the seam welds, and end caps/lock system. But really most of TW cost is fit and finish. If its showing a brand name, so that you can look up the certification/documentation for distances and fitting etc, its usually ok. If its something that's unbranded or hard to get core details from the manufacturer rather than the seller its probably one to avoid.

 

[JonRGV250]

650KG's of smokeless coal donated for free by my brother who won't use it
It's fair to say that I'm now sorted for heat for a few years (including the logs I already have) at least, and I'm awaiting a ton of wood to be delivered later this month for £50.

 

[{SAS}TB]

The telescopic is just an adjustable length, it wouldn't be needed if you go top exit and through the roof, but on your first diagram it would be between bend 1 and 3.

Like any product there is a certain level of build quality, on Tw this is the seam welds, and end caps/lock system. But really most of TW cost is fit and finish. If its showing a brand name, so that you can look up the certification/documentation for distances and fitting etc, its usually ok. If its something that's unbranded or hard to get core details from the manufacturer rather than the seller its probably one to avoid.

Thanks (again!) I'm going to get the side / back sealed up, the new furniture in there. Get the stove in the right place then measure up for vertical twin wall / roof kit and cowl. Cheers !

 

[robj20]

Going looking at a few stove places today, coal seems to still be the cheapest fuel Vs logs.
Is there anything I should pay attention to, already know I want multifuel and need smokeless.

 

[JonRGV250]

Smokeless coal varies wildly in quality, as do stoves.
Homefire and Taybrite coal are excellent, but not cheap.
You’ve also got Phurnacite VS Anthracite to contend with.
Just to add, I use a Morso Squirrel stove, which is superb, but not the cheapest.

 

[alexakasloth]

Homefire Brazier smokeless coal is good, about £6 a 10kg bag currently.
I use a mix of logs and coal as logs are easier to get going than smokeless coal.

 

[robj20]

So visited a couple of places one uses CastTec (£550ish)stoves the other we like an Arada (£1,300ish) model which are twice the price.
Total costs are in the region of around £2600 for the CastTec and £3500 for the Arada.
Second place with the Arada were really good with info, plenty to think about like coal needs more regular sweeping Vs wood, coal is better for heat, they recommend anthracite.

I want a solid slate hearth, grey stone chamber, and an oak beam.

Probably use coals2u for coal use them for BBQ stuff.

 

[DXP55]

I always say Clearview for stoves but it does come down to indivadual preference --- No matter who makes it - I would always go for a steel stove not cast iron - had a cast iron one crack right along back and as soon as it got hot you couldn't shut it down as crack opened up and let more air in.. Also a steel stove can be repaired quite easily.

The main item you must buy is a toasting fork

 

[JonRGV250]

You got to be doing something very very wrong for a cast iron stove to crack.
Although running one too hot may do it, or just having a crap quality one to start with.
My Morso (cast iron) retains heat for ages when I shut it off, but that said, it does take a while to heat it up in comparison to a steel one.

 

[robj20]

You got to be doing something very very wrong for a cast iron stove to crack.
Although running one too hot may do it, or just having a crap quality one to start with.
My Morso (cast iron) retains heat for ages when I shut it off, but that said, it does take a while to heat it up in comparison to a steel one.

They said the difference was mostly warm up and cool down times.
In guessing cheap success full stop are a bit rubbish.
Looking online Arada look to be very good, they have steel and cast parts. Lifetime warranty as well.