Fire Thread! - Stoves, Wood, Axes, Chainsaws

Mysterae_ said:
When splitting wood it's always entertaining to play a game of "will it split?!"

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Yes it will!

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I'm always surprised just how big a piece the splitter can handle !

Good.job :D
 
Guys, just under 3 weeks to go now before fitting so I am getting ready.
I've got a 10kg box of hardwood seasoned logs coming just for the start.
I am about to build the first log store and probably need another before I want a big load.

What I was wondering was kindling. I assume you actually want softwood to burn faster as opposed to splitting some hardwood down?
I've got loads of offcuts from various woodworking projects. I know I shouldn't use treated, but I have probably 10 or more kilos of various untreated lengths and thicknesses of mainly pine is this fine for kindling?
 
I use anything dry for kindling, split up some logs into small bits. If you've a good stove you'll need very little.

Do you mean 10kg, sorry? as that would last me a couple of days. :-)
 
john_smith said:
I use anything dry for kindling, split up some logs into small bits. If you've a good stove you'll need very little.

Do you mean 10kg, sorry? as that would last me a couple of days. :-)
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Yep just 10kg. Its literally to do the first couple of "burn in" sessions I'm told to do.
If I get the log stores built within a couple of weeks (I'm doing some major decorating and electrics chasing in the lounge as well that need to be finished first) then I will organise a proper load.

There is one of them homefire places not far away so I can drop by and pick up some 10kg bags from them pretty quickly and cheaply whilst I find the best supplier for a bulk load.

I had a £5 offer from paypal so only cost £11 delivered for the logs which doesn't seem to be far off the price per kilo of a medium sort of quantity from "handy" type places.
 
Thanks. I’m using some thick old no-name stuff made for summertime use and it mostly ends up under the clutch cover rather than on the chain.

More noticeable now I converted my MS 231 C-BE to get rid of the terrible tool-less bar fastener/chain tension system and it actually holds chain tension.
 
Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
Yep just 10kg. Its literally to do the first couple of "burn in" sessions I'm told to do.
If I get the log stores built within a couple of weeks (I'm doing some major decorating and electrics chasing in the lounge as well that need to be finished first) then I will organise a proper load.

There is one of them homefire places not far away so I can drop by and pick up some 10kg bags from them pretty quickly and cheaply whilst I find the best supplier for a bulk load.

I had a £5 offer from paypal so only cost £11 delivered for the logs which doesn't seem to be far off the price per kilo of a medium sort of quantity from "handy" type places.
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£11 delivered - How things have changed - Not so many years ago we took trailer to Telford for logs -We stacked them in trailer as you get a lot more on - Out through gate and weigh bridge we got 360kg on -So diesel there and back plus logs was £11.
My last trailer full was around £120 locally.
 
I picked up a wee bargain in Lidl today, a chain sharpener for £20.

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It looks to be a nice little unit and simple to use.

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You do have to take the chain off your chainsaw, the unit really needs to be bolted to a workbench and I don't know how easy it'll be to get a replacement disc when the time comes. But for £20 I'll take those negatives!

Once the depth and cutting angles are set and marked I reckon I could take a chain off, sharpen it and put it back on quicker than sharpening the chain in situ with a file :D.
 
Mysterae_ said:
I picked up a wee bargain in Lidl today, a chain sharpener for £20.

s!Ahf7xhLzGq1QsEj_1I6YDdIYdhfe


It looks to be a nice little unit and simple to use.

s!Ahf7xhLzGq1QsEluZpeGOnY_bKI-


You do have to take the chain off your chainsaw, the unit really needs to be bolted to a workbench and I don't know how easy it'll be to get a replacement disc when the time comes. But for £20 I'll take those negatives!

Once the depth and cutting angles are set and marked I reckon I could take a chain off, sharpen it and put it back on quicker than sharpening the chain in situ with a file :D.
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Does it just sharpen the cutters or does it remove material from the depth gauges as well?

www.chainsawspares.com.au

Chainsaw Chain Guide

Chainsaw Chain Guide. There are three primary specifications you need to know when ordering a chainsaw chain; the pitch, the gauge and the number of drive links.
www.chainsawspares.com.au www.chainsawspares.com.au
 
Having just de-gunked my saws bar oil filter (at the end of the flexible pick up tube in Stihl petrol saws) to cure low bar oil feed, here’s tips to avoid this:-

- Clean around the bar oil tank cap before topping up bar oil to avoid sawdust getting to the tank and clogging this up.

- Make the bottle or bidon you top off your bar oil tank from is clean and the oil is free from debris.

- Clean the crud out of the chain channel after every use - I use an old plastic Rawlplug sprue as a scraper.

Top chain life tip:-

Your chain with stretch as it heats up in use and you will adjust the tension accordingly. At any halt in cutting long enough for the chain and bar to start cooling, unfasten the bar clamp and reduce tension until the chain is visibly slack on the bar.

If you don’t do this, your chain will contract as it cools and be very tight on the bar when you start cutting again, causing greatly increased bar and chain wear until it heats up and stretches again.
 
Terminal_Boy said:
Does it just sharpen the cutters or does it remove material from the depth gauges as well?

www.chainsawspares.com.au

Chainsaw Chain Guide

Chainsaw Chain Guide. There are three primary specifications you need to know when ordering a chainsaw chain; the pitch, the gauge and the number of drive links.
www.chainsawspares.com.au www.chainsawspares.com.au
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It'll do both if you set it up to do so but you'd have to be very careful not to cut too much as that would be bad. You could set the depth and angle to cut the cutters first, sharpen, then adjust again for the depth gauges - you'll then know that each "tooth" is exactly the same which cannot be said for doing it manually, at least for me!
 
Sad day. My "i'll keep that as it might be useful one day" wood pile has gotten to a stage where I can't justify it taking up so much space. Given it a cull.









Side quest....I knocked down that wall to my log store before starting as it needed to go. Hopefully somebody from a local FB group will come and take it away to save me the job.
 
@Terminal_Boy - Thanks for those tips, use my chainsaws a lot and never even thought of the heat issue - I'll now slacken it off after each use - I don't think I have done any damage in the past as I always check the tension before 1st use, but never thought to check it between/during use - in the cold winter that could have quite an effect.
 
monkey_boy said:
Does the chain pitch just vary by model or can you get different pitches for each model? If it’s the latter, do you tell what pitch you have?
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https://www.husqvarna.com/uk/suppor...pitch-and-gauge-on-a-chainsaw-chain-ka-70134/ to help ID your chain.

My Husq model has the pitch and gauge listed, https://www.sam-turner.co.uk/products/husqvarna-petrol-chainsaw-435-ii-15 so if you have the same bar/chain as when you bought it, likely listed in its specs somewhere
 
Anybody in/near Bristol want some free wood? Almost all softwood (untreated) - pine & larch but most of it chopped and in bags.

Also have some long lengths of old floorboard.

Been stored in a garage which I now have to clear.

Around 25 rubble sacks in total.
 
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