Fire Thread! - Stoves, Wood, Axes, Chainsaws

[Minstadave]

How much are people paying for wood? A m3 is anywhere from £130-£180 here in Rutland. Makes it entirely pointless as the entire winter's gas bill is less than one load including heating hot water.

Seems a luxury that's easy to live without.

 

[robj20]

About

How much are people paying for wood? A m3 is anywhere from £130-£180 here in Rutland. Makes it entirely pointless as the entire winter's gas bill is less than one load including heating hot water.

Seems a luxury that's easy to live without.

£280-£300 for a 2m3 pallet, so that also includes a full seasons worth of kindling.

Definitely worth it for us our gas over winter is generally up to around £90 a month when it's really cold.

 

[Journey]

How much are people paying for wood? A m3 is anywhere from £130-£180 here in Rutland. Makes it entirely pointless as the entire winter's gas bill is less than one load including heating hot water.

Seems a luxury that's easy to live without.

£60 for a builders tonne bag of kiln dried hardwood, mainly ash, oak and birch. They also throw in a couple of large kindling bags. No idea why it's that expensive where you are.

 

[Minstadave]

£60 for a builders tonne bag of kiln dried hardwood, mainly ash, oak and birch. They also throw in a couple of large kindling bags. No idea why it's that expensive where you are.

It's Rutland, full of wealthy pensioners.

 

[Roady]

How much are people paying for wood? A m3 is anywhere from £130-£180 here in Rutland.

About £280-£300 for a 2m3 pallet, so that also includes a full seasons worth of kindling.

£60 for a builders tonne bag of kiln dried hardwood, mainly ash, oak and birch.

Someone cleverer than me figure it out... Google says a 'builders tonne bag' is 85x85x85cm. A 'UK pallet' is generally 120 x 100cm and would likely be filled 120cm high? A 2m3 pallet is double pallet - only in height? A 'Euro pallet' is quite a bit smaller than a UK pallet (speaking to the guys at work - we import plants from NL+IT), think they're 80cm x 100cm but quite a bit of variation.

Stuff I've been ordering at £250-280 a pallet of 'hardwood block offcuts' (kiln dried) from local sawmill - we switched from local wood suppliers as it's better stuff - even though not all is 'blocks' and fairly sure a fair chunk of it isn't hardwood. It still 'feels' expensive as doubled in price the last 3-4 years. There's a lot of good quality heavy stuff in there with splits, twists and knots with straight cuts, so it is genuine stuff from the sawmill and no rubbish filling or many gaps. They also 'extend' the pallet so it's closer to 120 x 120 (although wrapped so less 'box shaped') and probably 150cm tall. https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/attachments/suvfrxe-jpg.471386/

Back in summer 2023 we had new radiators which came on a pallet with a basic frame over the top... https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...axes-chainsaws.18907528/page-15#post-36456941
I didn't get around to it then... Nor this summer (lol), but finally got bored of staring at it and made into a wood store last weekend... Nothing too grand, but all scavenged wood from 'off sized' pallets free from work (!), some chipboard left over from when we had builders in for the roof, felt I had left over from a bulk roll purchase. Door hinges from some in the toolbox (no idea - very old B&Q label), so think the only expense is going to be a latch for it. Even re-used a bunch of nails I'd pulled out of 3 pallets I broke up for some more side slats, then screws which I guess I bought at some point. Even have a serviced&fixed padlock ready for it! Maybe something to treat the wood with, then have some fence panel stain/paint stuff left over can use to colour it! #budgetstore

 

[marinersfan]

How much are people paying for wood? A m3 is anywhere from £130-£180 here in Rutland. Makes it entirely pointless as the entire winter's gas bill is less than one load including heating hot water.

Seems a luxury that's easy to live without.

I've never paid for wood in the 8 or 9 years we've had our burner.

The Mrs' uncle is a builder. I've got loads of building timber and felled tree wood off him.

I was also lucky enough to get hold of a whole house load of flooring joists and floorboards a couple of years ago.

 

[Mercenary Keyboard Warrior]

Finally had my burner fitted end of last week. Just gotta wait a few weeks for the wall cementing to cure.
Will grab a pic and post up soon.

Which gave me time to read up on what wood I could use for kindling from my massive pile of offcuts.
Manufactured stuff like OSB/ply etc is a no due to the resins and stuff in it which is toxic when burned. Likewise with painted. If its old and may contain lead then its like below but worse.
Treated is the most no no as part is copper which will end up in the dust and no matter how hard you try you know your going to end up with some dust when cleaning out.

So that knocked about 25% of my pile out.

Was talking to my installer about where to buy wood and he recommended a local estate. (not housing lol!)
Apparently its part seasoned but he said people don't understand what seasoning means now. Seasoning means exposing the wood to all seasons.
So he said best time to buy is like Sept, leave it exposed to water and snow/ice/frost etc over winter and then in summer store it undercover to dry out.
Apparently this helps break it apart as opposed to just drying the moisture out.

I am a little late but going to see if I can get a load (2 cubic meters) dropped off.
For this year we will just buy the large bags of kiln dried I think, although maybe we can get one pallet load.

 

[200sols]

You'll always be on the look out for free wood now..

 

[marinersfan]

I take a bag out when we walk the dog.
Grab bits and bobs that have fallen off trees.Nothing major, but dried out and broken up it does as kindling.

We also had a wood fairy that kept randomly leaving building timber in our local Lidl carpark. So obviously that came home with me.
Even though according to the woman it was "embarrassing"

 

[Mysterae_]

How much are people paying for wood? A m3 is anywhere from £130-£180 here in Rutland. Makes it entirely pointless as the entire winter's gas bill is less than one load including heating hot water.

Seems a luxury that's easy to live without.

The last time I bought wood it was £500 for 20 tonnes. I had to cut it, split it and season it myself though . Probably doesn't help you much.

The going rate for a m3 bag is £70 - £80 for softwood and £100 - £150 for hardwood. Definitely not as cheap as it used to be.

 

[Mercenary Keyboard Warrior]

You'll always be on the look out for free wood now..

I am trying to work out if I can move some logs near my house.
We have an ongoing rolling estate tree management going on.
Since mid summer we have a pile of logs, probably 6 foot long, but anywhere from 12 inches to 36 inches round.
They are softwood I believe but a bit doesn't hurt I a told, especially if used early to get the fire going.

Wondering if I can kind of stand them up, fall towards the path, stand them up, rinse repeat.
If I can get them to the path I can sack barrow them round to mine. They are from 30-60 meters or so away but probs 50-80 by the path

I've got a decent bow saw for the allotment, but not sure I fancy trying to saw them though.
Rough guess is 3-4 would be equivalent to a meter cubed of logs...

 

[Gav_r26]

Chopped up some more wood at the weekend. Enough for a few weeks. I only chop a bit at a time and store it in a bunker type store.

 

[dl8860]

Going a bit mad with my stove.

Stovax County 5 Wide Fixed Grate Wood Burning & Multi-fuel Stoves

The Stovax County 5 Wide Fixed Grate Wood Burning and Multi-fuel Ecodesign stove brings presence and impressive flame visuals in equal measure. With a

www.stovax.com

Had it installed 2 years ago, and seems like I can just never get it to a really high temperature.

Have experimented with two different flue pipe thermometers, latest one like this, and at best I can just about get it to 170C, which is only just into the 'best operation' zone. Thermometer is 18inches above the stove, which is standard, but I've also experimented with that position.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C9Q465VW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I'm burning a mix of hardwood and softwood, which is certainly well seasoned. Between 2 and 3 years since felled most of it, and kept under cover.

No problem getting the fire 'roaring', and the surface temperature of the stove does get hot - around 260C according to my IR themometer. But the room could definitely do with more heat output (it's a big room and and old house so not fantastic insulation), and the stove pipe thermom is telling me I'm still at the lower end. Especially when outdoor temps drop I want to be able to rip it. Again I've experimented tonnes, get it going full blast with the main vent for wood fully open and fully loaded with logs, then closing it down too to see if that keeps more heat. But can still barely get past 170C

My current hypothesis is that maybe a flue damper would be useful, as perhaps the hot air is escaping too quick - my chimney is reasonably high - but I know they are frowned upon these days, and my sweep thinks this ought not to be the problem. He's fiddled with the baffle plates and suggested a new door rope, but no joy there.

Any ideas?

 

[Roady]

Was talking to my installer about where to buy wood and he recommended a local estate. (not housing lol!)
Apparently its part seasoned but he said people don't understand what seasoning means now. Seasoning means exposing the wood to all seasons.
So he said best time to buy is like Sept, leave it exposed to water and snow/ice/frost etc over winter and then in summer store it undercover to dry out.
Apparently this helps break it apart as opposed to just drying the moisture out.

Cut wood is exceptionally hydroscopic - meaning it 'breathes' and will draw moisture in, if the surrounding air has higher moisture content than itself. But that breathing is what also reduces it's moisture % when the air around it is lower. Freshly cut wood is easily 50% moisture (or more) so even having wood outside in the UK climate exposed it'll start to slowly season (it doesn't rain every day!). It's better to go a step further if you can and stop moisture from sitting on it - or coming up from the ground - as it'll lower moisture content even further and quicker. Airflow is your friend. Freshly cut it is almost better to let the ends get wet from rain than it is to cover them stopping airflow. But outside in a fairly wet/exposed environment there's only so low you can get that moisture %. At that point you need to move it somewhere you can dry it further...

Generally you don't want to burn wood at over 20% moisture content - it'll burn (although the wetter it is, the harder it is) but so much of the fires energy will be wasted evaporating that moisture. It'll need more energy to keep it burning, while also not outputting much heat itself. That high moisture will soot/tar up your chimney - you'll see a lot of smoke. The drier you can get your wood, the 'cleaner' it burns, the easier it is to keep a flame, while also producing more heat. You can spend lots of time and additional money to get your wood seasoning quicker in many ways, but trust me - the time and money is better spent just getting more wood to season it as cheaply & easily as possible and just take longer. Stockpile & get ahead.

Fresh cut typical UK native stuff can easily leave it 12 months outdoors to season - before 'bringing it in' to finish it off. Usually splitting it at that point to aid storing/stacking and helping the airflow. If you're buying freshly cut in the autumn, then yes it'll be 'ok' outside covered for 6 months, as it'll continue to season. If you're buying stuff which has already been stood, then you stick it outside you're not really doing anything over the winter by having it there - you might even be adding moisture to it. Better to have it at in a drier environment than it's come from if you can.

We also had a wood fairy that kept randomly leaving building timber in our local Lidl carpark. So obviously that came home with me.
Even though according to the woman it was "embarrassing"

Great tips. I'm an advocate of skip surfing the local area. Best thing is most of it is wood from indoors already so more than ready to burn. Also you can carry bits at a time - no cost for delivery if you're hauling on foot yourself! I'll always make sure it's good to take it - most people don't care, most local builders more than happy (as they'll get more in the skip then anyway!)

The last time I bought wood it was £500 for 20 tonnes. I had to cut it, split it and season it myself though . Probably doesn't help you much.

You're in a different league

Going a bit mad with my stove.

Stovax County 5 Wide Fixed Grate Wood Burning & Multi-fuel Stoves

The Stovax County 5 Wide Fixed Grate Wood Burning and Multi-fuel Ecodesign stove brings presence and impressive flame visuals in equal measure. With a

www.stovax.com

Had it installed 2 years ago, and seems like I can just never get it to a really high temperature.

Have experimented with two different flue pipe thermometers, latest one like this, and at best I can just about get it to 170C, which is only just into the 'best operation' zone. Thermometer is 18inches above the stove, which is standard, but I've also experimented with that position.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C9Q465VW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I'm burning a mix of hardwood and softwood, which is certainly well seasoned. Between 2 and 3 years since felled most of it, and kept under cover.

Circulate the air around the stove more - the stovetop fans are good for this. I don't get ours much over 200... Much cheaper and smaller stove than yours.

 

[Mercenary Keyboard Warrior]

Going a bit mad with my stove.

Stovax County 5 Wide Fixed Grate Wood Burning & Multi-fuel Stoves

The Stovax County 5 Wide Fixed Grate Wood Burning and Multi-fuel Ecodesign stove brings presence and impressive flame visuals in equal measure. With a

www.stovax.com

Had it installed 2 years ago, and seems like I can just never get it to a really high temperature.

Have experimented with two different flue pipe thermometers, latest one like this, and at best I can just about get it to 170C, which is only just into the 'best operation' zone. Thermometer is 18inches above the stove, which is standard, but I've also experimented with that position.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C9Q465VW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I'm burning a mix of hardwood and softwood, which is certainly well seasoned. Between 2 and 3 years since felled most of it, and kept under cover.

No problem getting the fire 'roaring', and the surface temperature of the stove does get hot - around 260C according to my IR themometer. But the room could definitely do with more heat output (it's a big room and and old house so not fantastic insulation), and the stove pipe thermom is telling me I'm still at the lower end. Especially when outdoor temps drop I want to be able to rip it. Again I've experimented tonnes, get it going full blast with the main vent for wood fully open and fully loaded with logs, then closing it down too to see if that keeps more heat. But can still barely get past 170C

My current hypothesis is that maybe a flue damper would be useful, as perhaps the hot air is escaping too quick - my chimney is reasonably high - but I know they are frowned upon these days, and my sweep thinks this ought not to be the problem. He's fiddled with the baffle plates and suggested a new door rope, but no joy there.

Any ideas?

One of the things my installer said is that its always worth testing with some kiln dried as its a known quantity.
He said its always his first advice when people say they think something is up. As its a known quantity try a batch of that and then see if your other wood is performing the same.

Cut wood is exceptionally hydroscopic - meaning it 'breathes' and will draw moisture in, if the surrounding air has higher moisture content than itself. But that breathing is what also reduces it's moisture % when the air around it is lower. Freshly cut wood is easily 50% moisture (or more) so even having wood outside in the UK climate exposed it'll start to slowly season (it doesn't rain every day!). It's better to go a step further if you can and stop moisture from sitting on it - or coming up from the ground - as it'll lower moisture content even further and quicker. Airflow is your friend. Freshly cut it is almost better to let the ends get wet from rain than it is to cover them stopping airflow. But outside in a fairly wet/exposed environment there's only so low you can get that moisture %. At that point you need to move it somewhere you can dry it further...

Generally you don't want to burn wood at over 20% moisture content - it'll burn (although the wetter it is, the harder it is) but so much of the fires energy will be wasted evaporating that moisture. It'll need more energy to keep it burning, while also not outputting much heat itself. That high moisture will soot/tar up your chimney - you'll see a lot of smoke. The drier you can get your wood, the 'cleaner' it burns, the easier it is to keep a flame, while also producing more heat. You can spend lots of time and additional money to get your wood seasoning quicker in many ways, but trust me - the time and money is better spent just getting more wood to season it as cheaply & easily as possible and just take longer. Stockpile & get ahead.

Fresh cut typical UK native stuff can easily leave it 12 months outdoors to season - before 'bringing it in' to finish it off. Usually splitting it at that point to aid storing/stacking and helping the airflow. If you're buying freshly cut in the autumn, then yes it'll be 'ok' outside covered for 6 months, as it'll continue to season. If you're buying stuff which has already been stood, then you stick it outside you're not really doing anything over the winter by having it there - you might even be adding moisture to it. Better to have it at in a drier environment than it's come from if you can.

Yeah well I think a lot of what you said is the same. But thanks anyway.

You specifically not supposed to burn wood over 20% now, its part of the new legislation with generally only low % water wood being sold.

I think the local estate wood is basically current year from what he inferred. So his point is if you buy it now it can be very fresh. Leave it to age and then in the summer dry it out.

I still need to go and take a look as those felled logs..

Oiled my new slate earlier so will be grabbing a pic or two later

 

[shroomz]

Someone explain like I'm 5 please. I thought I'd known how to light fires but got a new stove and figuring out how to get it all the way up to temperature quickly.

Do you close the door and primary air once it's up to temperature or earlier as soon as the logs have properly caught?
I've got one of those thermometers but I suspect it's not particularly accurate. I'm more going off of when the firebricks clean themselves off.

 

[marinersfan]

Ours is in an unlined chimney, as finding out the chimney was fine, and being tight, I didn't want to ***** £1.75b on a liner and scaffolding.

Depending on the weather it can take a while to fully get going, I'd image that's because it's trying to heat 60 ft of stone cold brick chimney..

I use a single firelighter, a bit of paper and some kindling.
I leave the door cracked very slightly (read : not open to allow **** to spit all over the carpet and set fire to the house) and the air vents fully open.
Once she's happy I shut the door. I tend to leave the air vents open for a bit longer until it's proper roaring. Then chop the bottom down to about 1/4 open, and close the top about halfway.

I could probably be a bit more economical with the settings, but - free wood.

 

[Mercenary Keyboard Warrior]

Someone explain like I'm 5 please. I thought I'd known how to light fires but got a new stove and figuring out how to get it all the way up to temperature quickly.

Do you close the door and primary air once it's up to temperature or earlier as soon as the logs have properly caught?
I've got one of those thermometers but I suspect it's not particularly accurate. I'm more going off of when the firebricks clean themselves off.

Recommend tortises videos on you tube.

In other news, I heard a strange noise and thought some kids had a quad bike out the front so went for a wander earlier on.
Turns out it wasnt it was a guy from the parish council who was moving some of the logs I had my eye on.
He said he was moving some for the school who wanted some for a wildlife garden but we are fine to take any logs we want!

So tomorrow is testing day to see what I can move and probabaly more limiting what I can get home before erindoors throws a wobbly!
Also, have decided to light the fire so running in now. I am pretty sure the cement will be set.
All the guides I have seen say leave it a week, its been 10 days.

 

[DXP55]

Put some more logs on - using them as if there is no tomorrow.
We have a envelope in cupboard where we put the odd £20 note and found it's got £160 in there -This is over the year so enough for a log load. Cuts down the big hit when you buy a load.

 

[dl8860]

One of the things my installer said is that its always worth testing with some kiln dried as its a known quantity.
He said its always his first advice when people say they think something is up. As its a known quantity try a batch of that and then see if your other wood is performing the same.

Good tip, I tried it the other day. £9 for 8 logs from the local garage, maddening but that's life. I would say maybe the kiln dried burned a tad hotter, but nothing hugely different.

Before trying the kiln dried I did a cleanout of the stove to get rid of some ash and loaded her right up and did manage to get things a bit hotter, but not by much. I think 200C on the stove pipe thermom is definitely hot 'enough', so I'm not concerned about creosote buildup. I do still think I'm not making the most of the fuel though, you read about plenty of people online who say they easily get to 300C and have to back it off. When the weather outside really drops then I just want to be able to do that if I can. But there we go. I think the likely answer is that it's just not a fantastic stove, you hear of Clearviews that kick out insane amounts of heat from one log every two hours. Meanwhile I'm putting on 2-3/hour and wishing for more heat.