iRacing

Should I dive in?

DEFINITELY.

Nothing like the pressure of a full grid :)

Just hold off at the start and avoid the imminent carnage at the first corner and go at your own pace.

F3 key is useful to give you an heads up of your "relative" position on the track so you can see how far infront/behind other drivers are.

Voice comms is helpful as when you see someone approaching and about to lap you, you can just tell them to "pass on the left" or "Pass on the right" etc. From experience, I think the experienced guys appreciate that and understand if you make mistakes.
 
what so other peeps cant see my lovely wispa gold skin???

They can only see it if they've downloaded it (which is what the trading paints app does), if they haven't downloaded a specific skin for that car for your user id then they just get what the car is painted like via the website.
 
The LFS system of downloading skins was the best way of distributing skins in any sim. iRacing just don't want the potential hassle of copyright and trademarks or whatever they're scared of, so it has to be left up to Trading Paints. TP is a brilliant idea ran by 1 member, but it is a nightmare having 10GB of skins on my HD.
 
They could make it easier for the community though by having the game supporting redirects, just like trackmania does so any skins you do not have are downloaded on the fly when you join a race if you do not already have it.

That way, we do not have to have 10GB of files sat on our drives just in case we meet that driver online and they are not responsible for any copyright infringement.
 
How are people getting around the issue of the unrealistic sliding of the cars?

Like when i'm in the mx5 as soon as the back kicks out, i counter steer to control it but no matter what way i've tried turning or using part, full or no throttle with all combinations it always seems to spin out

And before anyone says i know what way to turn and hpw to control cars :P
 
How are people getting around the issue of the unrealistic sliding of the cars?

Like when i'm in the mx5 as soon as the back kicks out, i counter steer to control it but no matter what way i've tried turning or using part, full or no throttle with all combinations it always seems to spin out

And before anyone says i know what way to turn and hpw to control cars :P

I'm still struggling with that... my vague interpretation is it affects people with different wheels in different ways... G25/G27 users seem to have the best experience in iRacing - which would make sense seeing as those are the most used wheels (i believe).

I'm using a CSR Elite and struggling...
 
You could try short callerbrating the pedals to try and get rid of the spiking.

The logi pedals i had start to spike after a few months i noticed some of my laptimes were slower than others even when they felt like a good laps but when i watched the replay i notice sometimes i wasnt getting full gas and sometimes the brake was staying on aswell just a little then on another lap it was fine.

Since then i know of a few m8s that have the same problem and are constantly taking them apart to clean the pots.

This is why i bought the Clubsport pedals they have no pots in them at all they use sensors for gas and clutch and a load cell for the brake and for what they cost they are a bargain imo the next step up for g27 users.

I'll be giving this a go tomorrow morning so hopefully I'll get them fixed without an RMA. I'll be getting some Clubsports anyway. I've heard good things about them and I'd love a good pair of pedals. The cost isn't really THAT bad for what's supposed to be one of the best pedals you can get either.
 
I'll be giving this a go tomorrow morning so hopefully I'll get them fixed without an RMA. I'll be getting some Clubsports anyway. I've heard good things about them and I'd love a good pair of pedals. The cost isn't really THAT bad for what's supposed to be one of the best pedals you can get either.

I've no experience of other pedals, so can't compare directly - but the load cell on the brake especially feels quite similar to a real car & the sprung throttle feels familiar too... the clutch isn't great, but then I imagine it would be very difficult to emulate the feel of a clutch.
 
I'll be giving this a go tomorrow morning so hopefully I'll get them fixed without an RMA. I'll be getting some Clubsports anyway. I've heard good things about them and I'd love a good pair of pedals. The cost isn't really THAT bad for what's supposed to be one of the best pedals you can get either.

The Clubsport pedals are very good but in stock form the brake pedal was way too light for my liking and to get the weight i wanted on the pedal i moved the pin to the second hole but although it gave the weight i wanted it gave a very short pedal travel and i only got the brake to how i like it with the shorter spacer that come with the upgrade adjustment kit.

They are very good pedals imo but if you have deep pockets cannon pedals are the best.

Nice video how to adjust the Clubsport

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54iQktxDQOM&feature=player_embedded
 
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I've got a g27 but it still does it. Can't find any info on how to fix it as that's what's put me off playing altogether. Shame cause the game is really good bar that :(

I'm pretty sure that this is related to the NTM. The tyre sidewalls are weaker then they're supposed to be so you need to use higher tyre pressure to compensate. You need to use low values for camber as well. This won't help in the fixed series though.

Saying that this *could* change with the new build.

0_o I see what you mean about deep pockets. £249 for the CHEAPEST paid or CSTs?
 
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I went down the diy route for my CST pedals, some of the parts took a bit of searching for and I did find some cheaper sources after the fact. In the end though they're a massive improvement on my old Driving Force Pro pedals.

Speaking of this build, I'm surprised that it's going to be down for six hours, I'm sure it's not normally that long. Perhaps they've got lots of new stuff for us.
 
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