Jeep SRT8 - Finally Got One Of My Fave Cars Ever -

Jeep SRT was on my shortlist.
I've always wanted one after I had a rented a 5.7 version for 3 weeks in a Canadian winter.

With a bit of luck the Trackhawk might be affordable in a few years time ;)

hahahah, those Trackhawks are a different breed, I don't think they will come down in price as hardly any in the world never mind UK... plus they're kind of an experiment really aren't they, certainly not mainstream. Fnatastic though, 700bhp in a 4x4... mental :-) I'll see how mine goes over the next year, you never know, super charger time could happen and these SRT's are good for 560bhp... and that's going into Lambo territory on 0-60's then... insane world now with these cars.
 
Finally found some dry flat tarmac... so much rain all week... and nailed this one!

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Can’t argue with that.
Nope, exactly, I've borrowed a Dragy off a friend which confirms these numbers as well with an error of 0.1, so at least I know it's there or there abouts and it's not just nonsense.

Just replaced air filter with a nice K&N drop in filter, no CAI for me,they look and sound brill BUt imo, in most cases don't increase horse power and he's being remapped on 18th. I've been to the dyno and got my baselin figures yesterday and will go back post remap and see what's what. Basically on the dyno it kicked out 420.7bhp in 100% standard form on 95 ron fuel. Now I've ran the tank down and he's now running on 99 Shell, with filter and map, lets see where that takes me. Then you never know over the coming year, we could go Super Charger ;-)
 
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Right update. Just sent this to the remapping company who I won't name on here just incase, as on Thursday I had my remap... I couldn't feel any difference really other than I felt the top end was dying ever so slightly but wasn't sure if that was in my mind...

So, to double check, I went to the same Dyno again today for a follow up, so here is the email!!! Very dissappointed.

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Hi There,
Had the remap Thursday etc. Had it back to the same Dyno as a couple of weeks ago today and very disappointing, so two variables have changed since the first dyno couple of weeks ago.

1). Running 99 Octane Shell instead of the 95 Octane that was in the Jeep when I bought it.
2). Replaced the OEM Paper filter with K&N Drop in filter.

That’s it, both of these respond really well based on the guys in the states and would only boost BHP, certainly not take it away.

So based on the remap, I should see anything up to 40bhp just from the remap alone… I never expect to see that, but 30 would’ve been nice… so basically as you can see on the attached graph:

Original OEM: 420.7bhp, 557Nm (411lbs).
Post Remap: 422.2bhp, 570Nm (420lbs) giving increases of 1.5bhp and 9lbs of torque.


I believe any increases seen here are borderline margin of error on the dyno i.e. day by day won’t give 100% same results BUT I’d also say these increases in torque are due to the higher octane and the K&N and nothing with the remap. I’d also say the remap also tails off the power earlier which he also mentioned as soon as he’d done the 2nd run, he said the power is tailing off faster than originally, so it won’t rev as high and I also feel that when driving weirdly when I was going there but thought it was my imagination. Just to prove this in my head, I switched the K&N out and put the OEM filter back when I got home earlier, in-case it was the K&N (not that it will be) and the same, the power tails off high up faster than it did with the factory map.

Anyhow, I’ve included the graphs showing the pre and post maps but even the guy was surprised there was no difference as he was interested in what the remap did so he’s put my original power run stats on the graph as well so you can compare next to next.

So, the end result of this is, personally there’s no point in having the remap done as it offers zero gain (in-fact I’d argue it’s slightly less powerful up the top end which is the last thing I wanted tbh), so how do we go about putting back the factory settings and a refund? Unless you can think of any reasons why? The cars only done a couple of hundred miles since the first dyno and is running sweet as a nut on 39k miles. Unfortunately it’s cost me £120 for this 2nd rolling road so is kind of wasted money (not wasted when you see an increase hahaha), but wasted when there’s basically no measurable difference


Cheers
Mark
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So that's what I've sent through to them... and here is the graph that I attached showing the before and after remaps... basically no difference as I detailed in the above email.

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Could it potentially have had a map on it already? Or was vastly under reported by the manufacturer? Plenty of engines give a good amount more power than the manufacturer reports.
no, basiclaly the factory figures are pretty accurate at 420bhp and 420lbs of torque so basically I'm in the rigth ball park... so the company basically states:


2005 - 2010 ECU remap takes the power from 425bhp up to 465bhp and the torque from 420lb/ft up to 460lb/ft.

This stage of software is designed as a software upgrade only meaning it is all within safe tolerances of the engine and drivetrain and requires no hardware modifications.


So, knowing that the engine in NA anyway, I was slightly dubious on the 40bhp etc, however, would've been perfectly happy with a noticable boost in power etc like 25/30bhp, but basically this has done zero, absolutely nothing, so either the remap went wrong OR the claims are basically false. So, I have a 14 day period that "With all remaps we offer a 14-day satisfaction guarantee which gives you plenty of time to ensure it is exactly what you are after if not we will revert your car to its original software and fully refund you."

So, I've emailed, see what they're response is etc and then take it from there. Bit of a shame as if this is what that remap does, then I'lll be wanting it taken off and back to stock factory as I believe i'll have made the power increase just from 99 and the K&N and would prefer the remap to be factory and not altered in anyway until I go super charging.

As a side note, I've ordered a true BWoody 4" CAI from the states which will be with me in a few weeks with a massive AFE filter, and that 100% gives more power proven and go old school way for now. Stats for that are:

Flowbench results:
Results as follows at 28" of water:
oem intake w/oem filter = 799.5 cfm
oem intake w/K&N drop in = 815.7 cfm
4" BWoody CAI = 1147.6 cfm
Flowbench results showed a whopping 348.1 cfm increase over the OEM air box!!


Dyno results:
Our intake was tested against the OEM intake and gained a whopping 18.7 WHP!

It's one mightly filter... 7inches and 9 inches at the bottom...

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Shame that the remap hasn't done the job. Does sound like quite the machine however, whilst also being exclusive enough that you'll never see another coming the other way :p

Have you found yourself purposely leaving it in a low gear yet, just for that engine noise?
Yeah deffo rare, but would've been nice getting a little buit more "free" power, will see what they come back with! As for the engine noise, yes, it's lovely, true HEMI sound, but will be 2% even better with a nice induction raw, so looking forward to that. The only thing that would enhance the sound would be Cams, Kooks Headers and cat back exhaust but other than exhaust it's all flipping stateside which is soooo annoying would cost a fortune to get it over here.


@pugheaven - Just noticed you're basically down the road from me. I'll have to listen out for the Jeep ;)
Hahah small world man, if you see me, be sure to flash or walk upto me and say hello mate ;-)
 
hahaha, yeah it's just a breather pipe for the oil filler. Normally they have a pipe that goes back into the intake system, but as I don't agree this is a good thing when only clean air should be going in, I simply pulled that off, replaced the piping with a small filter for breathing and pressure relief.

Weirdly when I receive my new CAI intake next month sometime, I'll post a picture comparing the two :cool: It'll be like David & Goliath :D
 
Well last 24 hours has been busy, did some fluid changes and undersealed the whole SRT8 with Lanoguard...

Oil that came out of the two diffs and transfer case was all good and in solid condition... whether it had ever been changed is another question and I can't see in any receipts it has... so rather than take a chance, just get it all done myself. Also, slapped 16 new Iridium Spark Plugs in as well so Big Ern is puring!



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Looking good, when you say detailing, are you just using a paintbrush or is it some sort of vinyl sticker?
Stickers and I'l be detailing all the black bits this week and just getting it all tidy in the engine bay. Hate oil and dirty... not good for my OCD lol.


@pugheaven any news on the remap, or did I miss a post?
Well they came back out today and removed the remap as it showed zero improvement which is bad really as a lot of people would simply think they have more power and the placebo effect kicks in. Only reason I know is there was basiclaly no difference on a dyno and more importantly under my foot. if I can't tell the difference and then a dyno number backup, refund time lol


Also, while I think on, checked the MPG as couldnt' find it and it's doing around 15mpg... that's not thrashing everywhere though... reckon if I was, it'd be probably single figures tbh!
 
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Well, being detailed at the minute and the wheels considering how they looked originally and how they're now looking... post 2 coats of SiRamik HR ceramic protector and polishing... the guy said the stains were due to crap acidic cleaners used either in hand washes or in cheap products. However, now they're all ceramic coated, maintenence should be easy!!! So basically clean off, then buff and polish then 2 coats of ceramic to finish... sounds easy...

However the difference is unbelivable as I couldn't get these stains off the wheels!!!

BEFORE:
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DURING:
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POST:
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Great job. You mask everything up like all the nuts and stuff before using the Lanoguard? I bet that took you ages?
Nope, it goes on everything, nuts, brackets, rubber piping absolutel everything under the car including control arms and suspension etc as it helps those things not degrade. Only thing we didnt' put it on was the exhaust for obvious reasons. However, everything else think coating. 2 hours worth of work... sprays on pretty easy and because it's a spray it gets in all the nooks and crannies. The one thing I may do is use the thicker grease for things like brake lines and add a little more on during summer ready for winter months. Checked underneath since doing it and it cures kinda like a think wax that you have to scratch to remove... fingers crossed it works. First major test will be this time next year when I do it again and see how it's reacted.
 
Detailing was completed yesterday! Single stage paint enhancement and protection with SiRamik APT system. Base layer of HR and top coated with Ultima ceramic coatings. Wheels off decontamination and polish followed by protection with 2 coats of SiRamik HR. Interior cleaned and protected with SiRamik ICL and Gtechniq Smartfabric.

The paintwork is like glass now to the touch. Unfortunatley I had to drive him home in the rain and it's now covered in much and I can't wash it for 7 days reccomended. Then it'll be two bucket washing... 1). Jet Wash, 2). Foam soak then Jet Wash, 3). PH Neutral Shampoo 3). Jet wash off 4). buff off water and never have to wax again :)

Not bad for 11 years old hey!

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Are those alloys chrome, or just really really clean?
Hahaha, they're chrome polished. They're a standard spec on the SRT8s and incredible worth a fair few quid especially in the states where they absolutely love them. I've got a set of 22's and originally the plan was always to swap one day when I got the SRT8... however, in the flesh they really suit the car so probably won't now and sell the 22's instead!

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