LED Bulb Thread

Soldato
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Got dimmable GU10's from LEDHUT and bought a trailing edge dimmer.

LED's flicker more as I dim them lower, any ideas why?

you're almost there with a descriptive question :p...

which GU10's from LED hut did you buy? which trailing edge dimmer did you buy? how many GU10's are operated by a single dimmer gang?

dimming LED gu10's is about the most problematic fight you could pick; i've only come across one setup that works well down to 4 bulbs.
 
Soldato
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is there a limit to how many gu10's a dimmer can operate well? Just say all kit from led hut.
generally speaking the more you have, the better they will work (smoother they will dim)

the biggest gang i have is 9 GU10's on one dimmer and I think its still within the spec. you may want to split them over gangs anyway though - that's the norm when laying out very large areas.

these are the gu10's I am favouring:
https://www.ledhut.co.uk/spot-lights/gu10-led-bulbs/new-4-5-watt-gu10-led-350-lumens.html
they dim better than any other I have used. the gang or 9 I have dim all the way to off with no flicker at all.


here's the spec for one of the best dimmer modules:
http://www.varilight.co.uk/leaflets/V-Pro Push Dimmer Instructions 761.pdf

Maximum and minimum loads will vary according to
make and type of LED. Refer to LED manufacturer
for specific loading information.
If in doubt, use 2 to10 lamps per gang (or 100W, whichever is lower).

The dimming performance of dimmable LEDs may
be improved by following the steps outlined overleaf


 
Associate
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Aberdeen
Hi, I was hoping someone could look over my install plan and give the thumbs up or down.
I am planning on installing RGBW lights around a room, roughly 3mx3m.

I am hoping to use a RGBW wall mounted controller such as this: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Colo...RGBW-RGB-LED-Strip-DC-12V-24V/1692793272.html

I also have a 240w 20A PSU.

Below is a rough circuit diagram of what I plan, will I need amplifiers as cable run from the controller to the furthest strips will be no more that 4m?

Thanks for the input.

Circuit.jpg
 
Soldato
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Norwich, England
generally speaking the more you have, the better they will work (smoother they will dim)

the biggest gang i have is 9 GU10's on one dimmer and I think its still within the spec. you may want to split them over gangs anyway though - that's the norm when laying out very large areas.

these are the gu10's I am favouring:
https://www.ledhut.co.uk/spot-lights/gu10-led-bulbs/new-4-5-watt-gu10-led-350-lumens.html
they dim better than any other I have used. the gang or 9 I have dim all the way to off with no flicker at all.


here's the spec for one of the best dimmer modules:
http://www.varilight.co.uk/leaflets/V-Pro Push Dimmer Instructions 761.pdf

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Thanks very much, some great info and means my planned 10 downlights in hall will be ok, just need to find a PIR that will work.

Although not sure I need 10 downlights, what spacing would people use in a 920mm wide hall, 1000m spacing between downlights?
 
Soldato
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Thanks very much, some great info and means my planned 10 downlights in hall will be ok, just need to find a PIR that will work.

Although not sure I need 10 downlights, what spacing would people use in a 920mm wide hall, 1000m spacing between downlights?


no problem.

When plotting them I tend to side with having more lamps than would be perhaps needed, especially if on a dimmer. the cost adds up significantly as you spend more on bulbs and fittings etc but they perform better and can be very bright when needed for tasks that require it.


you need to figure out the joist spacing (or whatever else could be in the way) as it will cause you do change your layout from what would be ideal.


what are your plans with the PIR by the way? I thought you were putting them on a dimmer. let me know how you get on with that as I've not seen a two-way PIR (but I haven't actually looked either)

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showpost.php?p=27180782&postcount=3
There's two recent rooms I did with measured drawings. I think most people would use less lamps; the dining area is quite dense in particular but I wanted smooth dimming and high brightness for those 'i'm using the dining table for this' projects we all take on (which was useful as it's sort of my main workspace at the moment for soldering)

similar content here btu maybe has more info:
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showpost.php?p=27125195&postcount=1189
 
Soldato
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Good point re joists, good chance in the existing hallway there could be a joist bang in the middle, as there is one sitting on each wall, i'll check, new section of hall will be ok.

Sorry I kind of crossed rooms there.

Dimmer in the kitchen/diner, 35sqm area, will probably two gang that area.

Hall is the pir area, two pir's and probably one standard switch. One pir to detect front door and two bedrooms, then another pir to detect 3rd bedroom, bathroom and door to diner/living. Switch will be "on" for always on and "off" for PIR.

I've found some threads online with people doing it.

Your lighting looks very good, nicely done.
 
Soldato
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Anyone tried LED bulbs brought off the auction site, they seem to be a lot cheaper than other places?. They are selling bulbs made by "long life lamp company"
 
Soldato
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Anyone tried LED bulbs brought off the auction site, they seem to be a lot cheaper than other places?. They are selling bulbs made by "long life lamp company"

I have before in my last house and I would never do it again - they're cheap for a reason. I actually chucked them all in the bin when I moved. I bought them as we had a bit of an electricity bill scare (were paying £4 a month accidently) so were looking to minimise usage for the price of a few magazines.

That being said, my outdoor GU10's are in weather-proof 'spike light' enclosures made by 'the long life lamp company' and they're fine - but enclosures are hard to get wrong really.


There's countless teardowns of bulbs from ebay showing their various dangers and faults - some are fine, others are lethal you never really know what you're going to get. even if they are fine (safe) the quality of light and colour temperature is sometimes awful to live with - generally LED's are not nice light sources in the same way that halogen and incandecant bulbs are and you generally have to pay a bit extra for a pleasant light output from the lamp. this will only come with trial and error as 'pleasantness of light' is not often a specified value :p it is important though - the components chosen for an LED lamp are critical!

in short - pay a bit extra from a reputable company (light rabbit or LEDhut) or a reputable brand and buy a few less than you were going to and spread it out over a longer time.
 
Soldato
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Manchester
dangerous in what way?

usually they skip important steps in the design of the circuit board to save money on exta / more expensive components. they often have exposed wiring / contacts. The problem is there's so many of the things made by so many different people you never really know if the one you have ordered is the one you will get, and if the one you have got has been torn-down and checked.

I've already said it above, but the quality of 'light' is usually rubbish and that's reason enough for me.
 
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Soldato
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ok thanks... i got some Verbatim 12W BC bulbs from Maplin these were the best rated ones at Which. Also got some GU10 from one of the suppliers we use at work for the kitchen, so far so good - these come with a 5 year warranty :)
 
Soldato
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Hi guys. Earlier this week I finally got keys to my place. In the corridor I have 4 CFL GU 10 spot lights I'd like to replace with some LED lights. I can't seem to find any. CFL lights seem to be much longer than normal GU10s.
Can you recommend me any?
 
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