LG 48CX OLED - 4K 120 Hz

nox_uk said:
Game optimiser sounds like marketing speak hah, but at least in the right direction (for my plan)

Thanks
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The speak about "optimized for PS5 and Xbox" sounds like more of a big steamy pile to me. But atleast, indeed in the right direction so more console players will go for OLED tv's and hopefully in future 32" OLED tv's too. All those LED LCD is sickening.
 
nox_uk said:
Game optimiser sounds like marketing speak hah, but at least in the right direction (for my plan)
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It doesn't do anything that a CX can't do. It's one menu with gaming settings gathered in one place rather than scattered in other places. There are four presets for different game types that change black levels and midpoint and an overlay that shows FPS and what is turned off and what isn't. Truthfully it isn't enormously useful as I don't feel any need to change the options in that menu ever and the more useful ones are in different menus. Don't change those either now it's set up.

As to whether the C1 is worth more than the CX. What Hifi and HDTV test both reckoned it's worth maybe a 10% premium for mixed usage. The price difference is currently about 10% so it's up to you.
 
Probably comes down to finding a deal - that said I am not in a rush so will likely wait until the 42" comes out, which i did not know about until this thread :)

thanks for the info - sounds like nothing in it (for me) getting a c1 over cx
 
Spent today installing and trying and failing to set up my new CX48. I've managed to go from non-HDR 4K60 out of the box, and in the attempt to use 120hz mode to being stuck at HDR 1080P60, to now getting no signal from the back of the 3070 whatsoever (apart from briefly during boot up, when the TV reports a 60hz signal when using the 7-green button press reporting tool, but no BIOS screen is actually displayed). Its baffling.

Im going for a full OS reinstall at this rate, ffs.
 
l0z said:
Spent today installing and trying and failing to set up my new CX48. I've managed to go from non-HDR 4K60 out of the box, and in the attempt to use 120hz mode to being stuck at HDR 1080P60, to now getting no signal from the back of the 3070 whatsoever (apart from briefly during boot up, when the TV reports a 60hz signal when using the 7-green button press reporting tool, but no BIOS screen is actually displayed). Its baffling.

Im going for a full OS reinstall at this rate, ffs.
Click to expand...

sometimes with C9, find turning instant game response off then back on right after sorted things out and got rid of no signal. May not work for you but in my case always gets rid of that screen and no issue after that.
 
newuser said:
It doesn't do anything that a CX can't do. It's one menu with gaming settings gathered in one place rather than scattered in other places. There are four presets for different game types that change black levels and midpoint and an overlay that shows FPS and what is turned off and what isn't. Truthfully it isn't enormously useful as I don't feel any need to change the options in that menu ever and the more useful ones are in different menus. Don't change those either now it's set up.
As to whether the C1 is worth more than the CX. What Hifi and HDTV test both reckoned it's worth maybe a 10% premium for mixed usage. The price difference is currently about 10% so it's up to you.
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Yes the CX setting is scattered in other menus. But on the C1 all they did was tidy up the settings and put them in new menus that's the only defences.

Here is a Comparison
 
l0z said:
Spent today installing and trying and failing to set up my new CX48. I've managed to go from non-HDR 4K60 out of the box, and in the attempt to use 120hz mode to being stuck at HDR 1080P60, to now getting no signal from the back of the 3070 whatsoever (apart from briefly during boot up, when the TV reports a 60hz signal when using the 7-green button press reporting tool, but no BIOS screen is actually displayed). Its baffling.

Im going for a full OS reinstall at this rate, ffs.
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You need a certified HDMI 2.1 cable for it to work correctly. Are you using one? I had similar problems when I tried to use an old HDMI cable I had lying around
 
l0z said:
Spent today installing and trying and failing to set up my new CX48. I've managed to go from non-HDR 4K60 out of the box, and in the attempt to use 120hz mode to being stuck at HDR 1080P60, to now getting no signal from the back of the 3070 whatsoever (apart from briefly during boot up, when the TV reports a 60hz signal when using the 7-green button press reporting tool, but no BIOS screen is actually displayed). Its baffling.

Im going for a full OS reinstall at this rate, ffs.
Click to expand...

As Itron said it may well be a cable issue. A certified and youtuber verified 6ft cable from True HQ is currently a tenner on the rainforest. I was using a 3 year old amazon basics cable and it worked well apart from the occasional black frame when it couldn't keep up. The True HQ cable solved that.

Other things to be aware of, I got random weirdness until I set 120 in windows display properties advanced settings AND the Nvidia control panel. There's also a use max refresh rate option in NVCP at least with the latest driver which will overide your in game settings if you're shooting for 60hz.
 
AORUS said:
Yes the CX setting is scattered in other menus. But on the C1 all they did was tidy up the settings and put them in new menus that's the only defences.

Here is a Comparison
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I believe game presets are new, standard, FPS, RPG and RTS. Truthfully, they all look like crap except for standard. Boost may be new.
 
nox_uk said:
One of those lag items shows c1 is faster than cx, both WAY faster than my current monitor anyway!
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HDTV test suggested that boost mode had a more accurate gamma curve in the near blacks than standard mode as well as the few ms difference in input lag. Dunno, it looks fantastic.

Here's a strange thing. Because of the lack of natural blur VS an lcd panel if you dip into the 30 fps range it looks like a very fast slideshow. Between 40 and 120 FPS it's the best Gsync experience I've had.
 
I am absolutely loving this setup!! I have my mac at 4K desktop in native scaling, great for productivity can get so much on the screen at one, and am running my PC in ultrawidescreen mode for games, I just seem to prefer that look, then when I am done working or playing I can bung a UHD film on and wow amazing!! best of all worlds!!
 
ntemples1 said:
I am absolutely loving this setup!! I have my mac at 4K desktop in native scaling, great for productivity can get so much on the screen at one, and am running my PC in ultrawidescreen mode for games, I just seem to prefer that look, then when I am done working or playing I can bung a UHD film on and wow amazing!! best of all worlds!!
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How far away do you sit/how deep is your desk?
 
newuser said:
Here's a strange thing. Because of the lack of natural blur VS an lcd panel if you dip into the 30 fps range it looks like a very fast slideshow. Between 40 and 120 FPS it's the best Gsync experience I've had.
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That's the downside of an almost immediate pixel response and one that is quite off-putting at first when viewing 24 fps content such as films. Probably makes a good case for films to be upgraded to 48 fps though...
 
SilverCider said:
That's the downside of an almost immediate pixel response and one that is quite off-putting at first when viewing 24 fps content such as films. Probably makes a good case for films to be upgraded to 48 fps though...
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I would just enable TrueMotion or whatever its called when watching movies... problem solved. But I agree. Movies would be so much better i HFR format. Remember seeing the Hobit in HFR and it made 3d tolerable where I normally get a sick headache after 20 minutes.
 
ltron said:
You need a certified HDMI 2.1 cable for it to work correctly. Are you using one? I had similar problems when I tried to use an old HDMI cable I had lying around
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You, and the others who offered advice, were correct. A HDMI 2.1 certified cable fixed all my issues. I'm now happily using 2160P 10bit colour @120hz. Gracias.
 
ABL - I had my OLED brightness set to 80 or 85, pushed it down to 60 but that made no difference other than the screen not being as bright.

Sound - This appears to be a known issue. Since I mainly use the 48C1 in Game Optimizer mode the sound mode seems to be firmly glued on.
I've already gone into the nV panel to Display -> Desktop Colour Settings --> content type: desktop programs but that's sadly not a properly working fix.
When switched to say AI Pro, sometimes it sticks, but most of the time sound reverts to Game Optimizer. I hope that'll be fixed in a future FW update.
I'm mainly using headphones anyway but that behaviour is annoying to me.

So since 1836p worked for me and I kept forgetting to to switch the screen back to UHD, I wondered how I would go about automating things, possibly scripting.
WoW runs in fullscreen windowed borderless, there sadly is no automatic switching. With other games in fullscreen, you can just pick that resolution and go with it.

I dug around and Set-DisplayResolution sounded perfect, but wasn't meant to be used with Windows 10.
An article mentioning QRes popped up. https://pureinfotech.com/change-screen-resolution-command-line-windows-10/
Sounds great! 2013? Yikes! But let's see if it works. And it does! It's as easy as putting qres.exe /x:3840 /y:1836 in a cmd window.
It only affects the main screen and doesn't touch my second one.

Since I have a folder in %PATH% and put .cmd files in there to launch Chrome profiles, this and that, I just put the .exe in there as well, dug around and made a "script".
First attempt was to switch to 1836p, launch WoW via .exe, then change the resolution back to UHD after wow closes. That worked, but had me manually log into the
game every time it started. Now that's not annoying at all. I dug around and read that the game doesn't grab the auth token from the Blizzard launcher this way and there
was no solution to be found that easily. Right. Guess I have to click the button in the launcher then. And since the script didn't auto pause without starting the wow.exe,
I had to find something that kept checking if the game was still running. Found it, tweaked it and it's working as intended. I put in a three minute wait until the loop checks
if the game is running and that's plenty of time to click and wait for the thing to start up, and then some.

The only annoying thing about this is it still shifts all windows around on the main screen. I had a bunch of icons on screen 2 and some kept spilling back to the C1 after the
res switches. After tidying up, grouping them differently, deleting some, that's been fixed as well.

Anyway, almost two months after switching to the 48C1 as my main screen and I'm still loving it!


Code: 
qres /x:3840 /y:1836

timeout 180 /NOBREAK

:LOOP
tasklist | find /i "WoW" >nul 2>&1
IF ERRORLEVEL 1 (
  GOTO CONTINUE
) ELSE (
  ECHO WoW is still running
  Timeout /T 5 /Nobreak
  GOTO LOOP
)

:CONTINUE
qres /x:3840 /y:2160
 
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