New Gaming Rig Advice..

So £450/£430 - given that you have to buy a MB?

What is your budget ontop of the £450 without making you broke - don't stretch (as you can add luxury components at a later date).

*Noted - that you have a GTX 1070
 
So £450/£430 - given that you have to buy a MB?

What is your budget ontop of the £450 without making you broke - don't stretch (as you can add luxury components at a later date).

*Noted - that you have a GTX 1070

Correct. Take in to account the 1070 is already bought. I'd say about £600-£800.
 
You're going to need an OS?

If you do i'm going to suggest you get that from somewhere else - an OEI (builders licence) - can be picked up very cheaply BUT you may have to make a phonecall to get it to work - which is why you buy it supplied from the Forest so that you're covered. Will save you £60 - but i won't mention in this much detail again as i'm stretching forum rules - but you've been very unlucky so...

But i'm listing the rest of the build here - makes sense to purchase from one place in case you run into problems.
 
You're going to need an OS?

If you do i'm going to suggest you get that from somewhere else - an OEI (builders licence) - can be picked up very cheaply BUT you may have to make a phonecall to get it to work - which is why you buy it supplied from the Forest so that you're covered. Will save you £60 - but i won't mention in this much detail again as i'm stretching forum rules - but you've been very unlucky so...

But i'm listing the rest of the build here - makes sense to purchase from one place in case you run into problems.

I have the ISO loaded on a stick ready to go, it's just the matter of activating it. Search "Paul's hardware windows 10" on YouTube, take a look at that for me and see what you think, because that's the way I was thinking of going about it.

Wasn't sure if it would just work once I logged in to my Microsoft account as well as it's linked to Windows now. Seen an article about that somewhere.
 
I have the ISO loaded on a stick ready to go, it's just the matter of activating it. Search "Paul's hardware windows 10" on YouTube, take a look at that for me and see what you think

Will look later for you.

Here's a spec below just to give you an idea:

My basket at Overclockers UK:

Total: £776.03
(includes shipping: £13.20)




You could cut costs on case, delay cooler (amd don't use pushpin so stock is easy to fit) and you could even do without the SSD until such a time that funds are more fluid again - would save you an additional ~£130.

But taking off the £430 you get from your brother - total build is ~£346
 
Or, get the motherboard - rebuild and see how you get on with that.

It maybe that once you have it up and running again you'll be content with the performance and postpone upgrade - doubt your bother would be too pleased. :)
 
Be great if you could.

That's a very similar to what I was thinking, looks very capable! Ryzen gives me future proof as well which is what I'm after.

Are we 99% sure it definitely is the motherboard?

Haha he's still in two minds if he's going to buy it now apparently, think he will want to though.
 
Be great if you could. (Pauls Hardware)

It's kinda like the quote 'You pays your money and you takes your chances'.

He mentioned that they all come from third parties - which rings a few bells.

The deactivation issues which he experienced with the Microsoft apps (and purchased via MS) is probably an equally valid concern with that company. If the $1 insurance covers issues like that - then it would be no brainer - but i suspect it only covers if your code doesn't activate straight away (but if it does cover future deactivation then great).

Suspect that it's like the companies that sell steam codes - 90% work no problem - 10% don't/steam deactivate them over time. But with a game you've probably played it anyway - an OS would be slightly more annoying.

I would certainly pay that insurance, read the small print behind it - but before that research the web (token search gives mixed reviews which is what i expected - which is why i opened with the quote.)

Sorry i couldn't be more help - if i was short of cash - i would probably take the gamble - or pay a $15 more (£29 total) and buy from a forest (sold by eseller but dispatched from forest - so with a little more protection.)

Are we 99% sure it definitely is the motherboard?

Everything is pointing to the motherboard but without trying a different PSU - i can't give you the comfort of 99% - but it would be my best educated guess with what we have to hand.
 
Thanks for that Plec, when he was on about the deactivation, that was from a different service right? I'd be using the first with the insurance. Are the OEI's available from the forest then? What does that stand for, haven't heard of it before.
 
Yes was different company (sub company of MS I think) - but same issues/instances will apply to K too.

I'm busy at the mo but will reply later.
 
OEI (original equipment installation) - is used by system builders and is the same as OEM in that the licence is technically tied to the system (motherboard). However, you can blag MS, especially if you ring in the evening, and get it moved to a different system (no guarantee but I've always managed it) if you're polite and talk like you know what your doing (helps if you do). And, yes, you can get them from a forest but be sure that they're despatched from the forest and don't have the words - 'no returns once purchased'

Retail gets tied to your MS account and can move from system to system. There was concern that MS would meddle with this with the release of Windows 10 as they were so cagey about the licence details with the free upgrade - but they seem to be allowing system swaps with no issues when licences are tied to an MS account.

Either way - you can get Windows 10 very cheap, and relatively safely, if you look around - including your Paul vid.
 
Right got you. Think they are listed as OEM's on the forest though from what I can see.

Just found an old PC my brother used to have in the garage, power supply MAY work, could test it just to make sure it's 100% the motherboard.
 
NP and probably - but we'll talk no more of woods anymore - substitute for vendor/supplier ;)

That PSU sounds ominous - how old? how long in the garage? make/model?

Any PSU that's been in the garage and is older than your present PSU - probably isn't great :)
 
Turns out not that old!

15cdqj4.jpg


He had it replaced cos his old one died but then this PC stopped working (he didn't test out what was causing it).
 
Is that an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro? You could have used that on your build - still can if your brother is inheriting it.

Yep, it's not a great PSU but if in working order will be great for testing purposes.

Although, it is coming out of a PC that stopped working...

Did it slowly die, suddenly shut down and never switched on again or just decided not switch on one day?
 
Freezer Pro 7 it says on sticker so I guess so! Is it good?

It just kind of stopped working, I was going to look in to it for him but he didn't seem bothered so never did, it's a very old build so he kind of just said he will have mine when I'm ready to upgrade
 
What's the spec?

And how old is the PSU? (But looks in good nic)

And yes, that cooler is better than stock - it's a budget cooler but performs well for the money. My main issue is that I think they still use pushpin fittings :/
 
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