Thanks - I'm with sky at the moment, so reading up I might have the same issues with getting rid of their equipment. I'll do some more research first though
*** Official Ubiquiti Discussion Thread ***
- Thread starter RoyMi6
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Yes, you can just install the protect app install on the cloud key.Probably one for @ChrisD. (sorry) but just in case anyone else knows - can I run Protect on a cloudkey2 on the same network as the dream machine SE, without the cloudkey wanting to be the network controller as well? Reason being I've read that the SE fans are obnoxiously loud if you put a hard drive in, and for a while I will be running it in my office. Long term it won't be an issue as it will be in the loft, and I can migrate protect to it properly at that point, but currently my controller is the cloudkey (I use Firewalla as the router/gateway but the cloudkey does all the wireless vlans).
You’ll be limited to a 5TB regular laptop hard drive though which are not the best for CCTV. You’ll be limited to 5 2k cameras when targeting 30 days retention.
Edit: if you plan to migrate to the SE, it feels like an expensive route as ideally you’ll want a proper 3.5” cctv hard disk in the SE and you’ll get a larger cheaper drive for the same money as a 2.5” laptop drive.
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The limitation being whats in the cloudkey at the moment you mean? It's not a problem- thats what I've run protect on for a few years
.Long term yes I know its rubbish and will move to the dream machine SE, I just can't take much fan noise in my office.
Cheers!
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I think the cloud keys only come with a 1tb hard disk but yeh it will work.
You can run multiple NVRs at the same time if you really want. The limitation is you can only connect cameras to one at a time but you can swap them between NVRs in the app/dashboard.
Thats how I migrated from a cloud key to my UNVR, I set up the new NVR as a new NVR and moved the cameras across in the UI. I’m pretty sure protect is still running on the cloud key, just no cameras attached to it now.
You can run multiple NVRs at the same time if you really want. The limitation is you can only connect cameras to one at a time but you can swap them between NVRs in the app/dashboard.
Thats how I migrated from a cloud key to my UNVR, I set up the new NVR as a new NVR and moved the cameras across in the UI. I’m pretty sure protect is still running on the cloud key, just no cameras attached to it now.
You've just answered a question I was about to ask, glad I read new posts first.
I wondered if one AP would be enough to cover a 2 bed, not particularly wide, 2 floor house. I might have to go for the 7 pro instead of the 6 pro just in case. How is your AP orientated?
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I'm not sure, are you able to disable/uninstall the Network Application on the CKG2?Probably one for @ChrisD. (sorry
Regarding the SE, the loudest thing on it is the HDD. I wouldn't say the fans are loud at all, but mine is tucked away in a cupboard so it's not really something I listen out for.
I have a single U6 Enterprise which covers our 4 bed newish house. I get anywhere from 400 Mbps to 1130 Mbps (my ISP speed) depending on where in the house I am. I also have a UAP FlexHD which is installed on the soffit to cover the garage and garden, which some 2.4 GHz devices seem to prefer connecting to. That gives me around 4-500 Mbps outside and allows me to 'work' from my garage while I'm actually doing DIY/man jobs.
Hmm, I may just stick with the 6 Pro and just work out the best placement to cover the whole house.
Currently my TP-Link AX1800 router is in one corner in my living room and the furthest point, from where it's located, in the house is the bathroom and I can get 2.5ghz in there, my iPad has replaced magazines, but when on 5ghz I sometimes need to turn WiFi on and off again to get it to reconnect.
Mine is upstairs on the ceiling. I have a POE switch in the loft powering it, the Flex and some cameras plus cat5e drops to the bedrooms.
Not at all, i used my Ultra with Sky without their router, set it to DHCPv6 and away it went, not username or password needed and I've ran Sky Stream/Glass from it without any issues (1 Glass and 3 x Stream Pucks)
If I didn't have the silliness of the floor insulation I'd probably have got away with a single u6 Pro in the loft. The signal is almost non-existent downstairs from the u6-pro so had to go with something else to help so have the u6 mesh in the study and a second with decent LOS to circumvent the fridge/freezer and cooker.
It depends on what sort of house you've got really. I've had to install four APs at my in-laws house because the walls are 3-4 feet thick, and the floors seem to be lined with lead.
I've also installed a single Unifi U6+ at my brothers new build and since the walls are made of paper its more than sufficient, and that house is 3 stories.
And I've got 3 covering my house which is a reasonably large 4 bed detached built in 85 with crap insulation, if anything at all, between everything.
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I'll buy one AP to start and move it around to find the best position. If I cannot get it to the point I'm happy with the coverage, I'll just buy another and have one downstairs and one upstairs. I hope I can get away with one as I don't fancy doing the cable run, I'll never make it look amazingly tidy
I was going to suggest something along these lines. Once you've got the first AP in place you can use Unifi's Wifiman tool to do some testing and you'll be able to analyse signal strength in different parts of your house.I'll buy one AP to start and move it around to find the best position. If I cannot get it to the point I'm happy with the coverage, I'll just buy another and have one downstairs and one upstairs. I hope I can get away with one as I don't fancy doing the cable run, I'll never make it look amazingly tidy
Someone may correct me if I'm wrong but depending on the use you may not need a second drop. Unifi WAPs can wirelessly uplink (you need to set them up with a wire first however), so as long as you can get power to it you can extend the wifi (you might know it as the more generic term Meshing). It's awful for things that require ultra low latency by all accounts (eg gaming), but if you've got a section of the house where signal is poor and all you're doing is browsing/streaming you would probably be ok. Its certainly true that a wired connection is best, but if its not possible you can work around it.
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I have literally plugged it in in the front room next to the router sat on a table. I have not done anything with it as I am recovering from a fractured femur so on crutches. Just to note my house is a new build so only plasterboard walls so the range in a fully bricked house will definitely differ!
You may be pleasantly surprised. My house is 25 years old so is a fairly standard wood and plasterboard walls job. I have my U6 Pro on a stand in an understairs cupboard pointing up and that covers the whole five bedroom house
The only thing concerning me is my house all brick so that could be a hindrance. I'll start off in the centre(ish) of the house downstairs, see what the signal is like, and go from there.
How directional are these saucer AP's, would it be better to 3D print a stand for it so it's facing upwards?
I think the next bit of equipment I want is the POE doorbell, not sure how best to fit it though. Thinking the angled bracket and stick it in the corner between the door frame and brickwork.
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My U6 Pro isn't enough upstairs either, paired with a U6 Mesh downstairs though it's perfect.
This was posted years ago, not sure if it is still relevant to the modern AP. But i don't see why they change the radiation pattern drastically as it seems optimal given the shape of the AP.
There is also this, if you can make sense of it. https://help.ui.com/hc/en-us/articles/115005212927-AP-Antenna-Radiation-Patterns
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The saucer APs are very directional in that they broadcast the signal out like a doughnut so they’re pretty useless when placed vertical. In my non professional opinion and based on my experience, so long as the AP is horizontal then you get a good signal.