RC cars

Mt10 having weak arms is relative. It's just that they're the weakest part of a truck that appears to be nigh on indestructible.

Not specifically tested battery life on one. But a mate has an Mt10 and it and similar sized brushless cars will get around 15-20 minutes on a single 3S 4000mah battery, depending on how you are driving the.

Very easy to bomb around at full beans and empty a battery quick!
 
I've seen people on YT take them to skate parks, woods, etc - looks like a lot of fun. More fun than a "road" RC would be, perhaps?
So i run the following…
Tekno EB48 2.1
Tekno NB48 2.1
Schumacher LD2 (retired)
Associated B6.4
Kyosho mid optima rere (mistake and sits on shelf)

All of the above are for racing at 8th and 10th scale buggy racing clubs.

I also have 2 x Vanquish Phoenix trucks. These are just used for fun in the garden or taking them on walks. They arnt fast but loads of fun trying to get them over under and around obstacles you see around and about.

Everything is fitted with race/hobby grade electronics and motors. Other than the NB which has a nitro OS based blok engine installed.

I also head over to a dedicated crawler track once in a while that has dedicated courses. I don’t compete like with the buggy’s, but people do.

As for skate parks. None of my Rc cars are designed for that. You’d want a Traxxas (x)MAXX or XRT to be ripping it up skate board ramps. Lesser vehicles would work…but break quicker.

Mt10 would be great if you have big open space with some natural or made dirt jumps. But I would expect to be buying spares if you frequent a stake park until you have very good control of the car on the ground and in the air.

As for road based car. I wouldn’t bother unless you use it exclusively at a club with a track.

You don’t want to be going out and hurting anyone or breaking anything. These cars are heavy and very fast. A moment of silliness can hurt.

Depending on your interest in building a kit…which is massive fun. Take alook at the Tekno MT410 you have to buy electrics and a shell… buts it’s tough as boots and would be great for bashing.
 
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So i run the following…
Tekno EB48 2.1
Tekno NB48 2.1
Schumacher LD2 (retired)
Associated B6.4
Kyosho mid optima rere (mistake and sits on shelf)

All of the above are for racing at 8th and 10th scale buggy racing clubs.

...
Whats wrong with the Optima Mid - I'm building one at the moment so curious what challenges I might face with it!
Cheers
 
Whats wrong with the Optima Mid - I'm building one at the moment so curious what challenges I might face with it!
Cheers
I was going to run it in vintage at my local club. But people just replace most of the kit with exo and koswork parts. Wider longer chassis new hubs etc etc to make it driveable. By the time they have finished the arms and diff cases are the only original parts. And they’ve spent easily the same price again of the kit.

On Astro or carpet the ride height is far too high (once you put 2.2 wheels on) so you’re left buying a completely different set of shocks to run it lower (16-17mm). There are no springs for the kit shocks that would help this.

The front shock tower is weak so throw £20 on a carbon one.

Kit belt is too long, so it skips. You literally have to buy a shorter one if you want to brake medium to hard.

Then as it’s a rere of course you have that expected challenge that to replace the diffs you have to literally disassemble the car.

Hence for me it’s a shelf car.

I need to get a new body and paint it white so it looks like the box art actually.

Had I owned one as a kid. I may have a different view. But for me, not worth it.
 
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I was going to run it in vintage at my local club. But people just replace most of the kit with exo and koswork parts. Wider longer chassis new hubs etc etc to make it driveable. By the time they have finished the arms and diff cases are the only original parts. And they’ve spent easily the same price again of the kit.

On Astro or carpet the ride height is far too high (once you put 2.2 wheels on) so you’re left buying a completely different set of shocks to run it lower (16-17mm). There are no springs for the kit shocks that would help this.

The front shock tower is weak so throw £20 on a carbon one.

Kit belt is too long, so it skips. You literally have to buy a shorter one if you want to brake medium to hard.

Then as it’s a rere of course you have that expected challenge that to replace the diffs you have to literally disassemble the car.

Hence for me it’s a shelf car.

I need to get a new body and paint it white so it looks like the box art actually.

Had I owned one as a kid. I may have a different view. But for me, not worth it.
Ah no worries - there's nothing too scary there which is a relief, I got the Koswork edition and already have a set of XB4 shocks to go on it.

Not decided if I'll go LWB - tracks pretty twisty so probably won't bother for now
 
My kid is wanting a new RC buggy for a 7th birthday, anyone got any suggestions for around £60-£100 RTR bundles? Not expecting anything amazing just something a bit better than the ones in say Smyths.

I used to build and fly FPV drones 8/10 years ago so have a lipo / li-ion charger but from what I’ve seen most of them come with chargers too. I’m also thinking a cheaper slower brushed motor car would probably be best to start.

I have had a quick look at some of the brushed FTX ones and like the fact I can turn down the overall speed to get used to it gradually. Not sure if FTX are actually any good though.
 
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My kid is wanting a new RC buggy for a 7th birthday, anyone got any suggestions for around £60-£100 RTR bundles? Not expecting anything amazing just something a bit better than the ones in say Smyths.

I used to build and fly FPV drones 8/10 years ago so have a lipo / li-ion charger but from what I’ve seen most of them come with chargers too. I’m also thinking a cheaper slower brushed motor car would probably be best to start.

I have had a quick look at some of the brushed FTX ones and like the fact I can turn down the overall speed to get used to it gradually. Not sure if FTX are actually any good though.
I second what @BUDFORCE suggested.

You want something that you can readily and cheaply get spares for as RC cars tend to get damaged.....a lot :)

The WLToys range would be a good starting point, just decide what terrain you will be using it on and get an RTR bundle.
 
@Tackle_Berry

Probably better getting a bangood special.

Some of them are supposed to be really good.

I think one of the Wltoys something... 144001 I think......... Is supposed to be really good for the money.

Lower end FTX cars are pretty rubbish.
Bought my kid an FTX tracer brushless, it's pretty decent, it's like my arma granite, but mini. The shocks could do with being oil damped, otherwise it's quite a speedy little thing and taken quite a beating and survived so far.
 
Thanks for the advice I went for the FTX Tracer Brushless for my son now looking at the HBX 16889A Pro for myself so I can join him seems to be the same just with metal parts and upgraded shocks, although…I keep thinking about the MT10 V2 ‍:cry:

 
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Went with an MT10 v2. I’ve read that I should be topping up diff oils and shocks before using it. Anyone done this with theirs or do I just get on and use it once I’ve swapped to the RPM arms and put some nylock nuts on?
 
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Anyone have the arrma granite mega 550?

Looking to get something like that for Xmas, but I think the BLX is a bit too much for an 11 year old!

Read a few motor/ESC issues and servo issues mega 550?

What else is out there, the arrmas can take a good beating, my granite BLX certainly has!
 
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