Must get into the drops more too - it is so much faster. It's odd - I don't feel uncomfortable down there in terms of aches etc but I just naturally want to move back to the hoods. Muscle memory I guess and the solution is probably just simple ride more in the drops.
I put 120psi in my 20c rear.120 psi James? Are you on 21mm tyres or something?
chasing is the process of running a tap through the threadsto ensure they are clean and even. Facing using a bladed tool to ensure the outside faces of the shell are completely flat and square to each other
chasing won't make a lot of difference except to how easy getting the BB in and out is, but a well faced shell ensures the bearings are accurately aligned, increasing their lifespan and reducing the chance that a slight offset is causing any noises
I have to make a conscious effort to do it as well, particularly when I'm tired or - stupidly - when it's windy. I have to really think about it, but if I actually do it then I do find I'm quicker.
120 psi James? Are you on 21mm tyres or something?
Buns of steel!
sprayed my pedals with gt85 quite a few times to stop the creaking, never had a problem!
I put 120psi in my 20c rear.
But that's nothing compared to the tubs. 175 in the rear and 155 in the front
You'd think it would be like a dinner plate, but it's really not; it's very smooth.
You should lower it. 120 psi on 25s is crazy high unless you weigh a lot - and I think most 25s don't recommend to 120.
You should lower it. 120 psi on 25s is crazy high unless you weigh a lot - and I think most 25s don't recommend to 120.
I regret it so much, i were in a lot of pain yesterday and it hasnt really eased up today, might have done a little more damage, thought it would be okay, thatll teach me.
<snip>
1-5 weeks id say im looking at now before im riding, or atleast riding properly.
Genuinely gutting.
Anyone know the answer to this?
If i have pain on the outside of both my feet then which way do my cleats need to be adjusted?
Seen a doc? Well worth doing if you've done more damage, they'll give you a better idea of the time it'll take to heal. Ideally they'll tell you when to get back on the bike!
I would say heel in/toe out a little. I get it in the outside of my right foot on long/hard rides. Constant tweaking has lessened it but now my cleat position is totally different between my two feet. Quite odd as my resting foot position/angle is fairly similar, I have no injuries or any kind of imbalance that I'm aware of.
Had an awful incident last night. Was on a club ride and the rider in front of me braked suddenly. Unclipped my left foot in anticipation of a pileup and managed to get my foot caught between my wheel and my frame. This caused my wheel to lock up, downhill, at 30mph as I was forced into a skid which shredded my rear tyre and blew up the inner tube :/
Pretty sure the rim is bent in addition to the obviously wrecked tyre.
Had an awful incident last night. Was on a club ride and the rider in front of me braked suddenly. Unclipped my left foot in anticipation of a pileup and managed to get my foot caught between my wheel and my frame. This caused my wheel to lock up, downhill, at 30mph as I was forced into a skid which shredded my rear tyre and blew up the inner tube :/
Pretty sure the rim is bent in addition to the obviously wrecked tyre.
I went to the docs last monday and she just said to plenty of ibuprofen, support bandage and rest from sport. She said 4-6 weeks before its back to normal.
"Heel in toe out" Ill remember that when i adjust them. I feel it on longer rides it becomes very painful.
ADJUSTING CLEATS
The position of your cleats on your cycling shoes determines the comfort of your feet, ankles, knees, hips and back. Once you clip into your pedals, the path that your leg "tracks" during the pedal stroke is locked in, and misaligned cleats send stress up from your foot up your leg to your low back with every pedal stroke.
"When mounting cleats, you want your feet to feel straight when clipped into the pedals," says Sean Drake, an exercise physiologist who works with the U.S. National Triathlon and Cycling Teams. "When setting fore-aft cleat position, the ball of your foot should be directly over the pedal axle." Cleats positioned too far forward on the shoe will generate excessive ankle movement, and can cause in Achilles strain.
Side-to-side adjustment is based on personal preference - usually, the narrower stance, the better, but start somewhere in the middle and see what feels right. Make sure there is minimal yet adequate clearance between crank arm and your shoe. Too far away is awkward, and if the shoe touches the crank it will eventually wear a grove there.
Everyone has a natural angle that each of their feet prefers to be at. Some are duck-footed, some are pigeon-toed. When you walk or ride without cleats, your foot assumes this angle. It is important that the cleat is adjusted so as to permit your foot to be at its natural angle. This is less of an issue if you ride pedals with "float" (limited rotational freedom) in the cleat attachment. Most newer clipless pedals offer at least some float.
It may take some time to find the ideal cleat position. Initially go for easy rides to check the position and ensure it's right for your knees. If you feel any stress or strain, change the angle slightly to eliminate discomfort. The rule-of-thumb is to continue adjusting your cleats until you feel no torsional, or "twisting," stress in your leg as you pedal. Listen to your body.