Tabletop Warhammer?

Werewolf said:
I tend to find with gold/metals it's often best to do two or three thin coats.

It might also be worth trying an intermediate colour between the black and the gold to avoid having to do the gold straight onto the black (it often helps with other colours).
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This is usually what I do. I go for a dark-medium brown over the black, then drybrush the gold over the top. It helps to create some nice shading, too.
 
GW's metals aren't that great tbh. You'd get better coverage with Vallejo's. However, you can basecoat any gold parts with a dark brown. This will be a lot more forgiving than trying to go straight over black.
 
Von Smallhausen said:
So paint shining gold on the undercoat, wash with devlan mud and highlight the edges with shining gold ?
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-shining gold
-devlan mud
-burnished gold highlight on to all raised areas (leave the previous 2 stages in the recesses).
-devlan mud the whole lot again (creates more shadow)
-burnished gold highlight (smaller area than the previous highlight).
 
Von Smallhausen said:
Excellent. Thanks vin.

I take it a coat of shining gold is enough for the shoulder pad edges ?
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yeah, doesn't need to be too perfect either, the devlan mud will cover up any slightly patchy areas.

should be able to get something like this;
DSC_0274-1.jpg

or better, that was just a quick 2 minute job.
 
vincent1989 said:
haha, yes, it is but they're easy, draw a circle with white paint, add a bar at the top and then a smaller blue circle inside the white one with a line bisecting the bar, tidy up as necessary.
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You, my friend, are a fantastic painter.

Don't think I will strip the Ushabti someone is selling me, they are looking amazing ;).

PS. any tips on getting a 500 point force painted in 1 week with work? I can't keep concentration...
 
Jaffa_Far said:
Also, anyone got any good ways to make awesome snow? I have the GW stuff and its...well....white paint looks better :/
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bicarb and pva, bit of water (just make sure it's clean water or you're snow wont be nice) mix some water into some pva (1:2/1:1), then add bicarb, you want it to end up like a thick paste, then apply to the base in blobs as you see fit.

von; 2 mins and i will :) I never like plain white terminator cruxes either, I used to go for a bone colour or light grey but white, thinned down badab black, white on all the raised areas, lots of nice smooth coats are the key to good looking white.

quick and dirty;
ultra.jpg


just practice on your mixing pallet, take your time and it'll look much better than my example :p
 
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Life's too short for hand painting shoulder pads. You just need to slap a bit of MicroSol/Set under and over the decal to dissolve it down a bit. Also pre-glossing the pad with a couple of strokes of Klear/Future floor polish will cut down the silvering effect no end. Roll a q-tip over the decal to get any remaining air out and bob's your auntie. When the decal is fully dry just varnish over again as you would with your whole figure.

Really doesn't take much effort, or I wouldn't do it :)
 
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