Tabletop Warhammer?
- Thread starter Arcimbaldo
- Start date
buypainted is great, my younger brother is picking up a lot of tips from his videos (although I think is appalled at times by some of his habits
).
One of the nice things about the airbrush, is that you can buy coloured undercoats (Vallejo do a range of colours in 200ml bottls for about £11 a bottle), which means you can save a fortune on undercoat sprays, and potentially save a huge amount of time with some models (if you can use an undercoat that also acts as the base colour you build on, rather than starting at black/white, you can start at red/brown/green/grey).
Britmodeller.com has some good advice on airbrushes, paints and compressors for model work (and generally good all round for model talk and advice).
One important tip.
When you start using an Airbrush, invest in a proper mask, I paid about £30 for a good mask with replaceable filters (I think the mask was about £15 and the filters the same, I've yet to need to replace the filters).
We also bought a proper extractor for the spraying corner in the garage (about £250, new filters are about £20 every so often), which makes life much more pleasant, especially after undercoating a lot of models with rattle cans - where there used to be a visible miasma that would do a Nurgle greater daemon proud (and a nasty layer of spray dust when it settled), it keeps the air nice and clear
(you can barely smell the paint even without a mask).
[edit]
My spray area in the garage as it stands as of about March (I had just put in an ikea FREDRIK desk I picked up for £29 which is ideal for my spraying), I need to move the lights from where they were set for the old position on the left of the picture (a pair of 4 foot daylight tubes are just out of picture).
[edit2]
I think we spent about £400 on the H&S silverline 2in1, and compressor, then about the same again on extractor and other accessories, but you can pick up a cheap AB and compressor for about £80 (but may have issues with QC and getting spares), we went for a known quantity straight from the word go as we didn't want to muck around and I'm generally not one for buying cheap stuff if it's likely to get a lot of use.
).One of the nice things about the airbrush, is that you can buy coloured undercoats (Vallejo do a range of colours in 200ml bottls for about £11 a bottle), which means you can save a fortune on undercoat sprays, and potentially save a huge amount of time with some models (if you can use an undercoat that also acts as the base colour you build on, rather than starting at black/white, you can start at red/brown/green/grey).
Britmodeller.com has some good advice on airbrushes, paints and compressors for model work (and generally good all round for model talk and advice).
One important tip.
When you start using an Airbrush, invest in a proper mask, I paid about £30 for a good mask with replaceable filters (I think the mask was about £15 and the filters the same, I've yet to need to replace the filters).
We also bought a proper extractor for the spraying corner in the garage (about £250, new filters are about £20 every so often), which makes life much more pleasant, especially after undercoating a lot of models with rattle cans - where there used to be a visible miasma that would do a Nurgle greater daemon proud (and a nasty layer of spray dust when it settled), it keeps the air nice and clear
(you can barely smell the paint even without a mask).[edit]
My spray area in the garage as it stands as of about March (I had just put in an ikea FREDRIK desk I picked up for £29 which is ideal for my spraying), I need to move the lights from where they were set for the old position on the left of the picture (a pair of 4 foot daylight tubes are just out of picture).
[edit2]
I think we spent about £400 on the H&S silverline 2in1, and compressor, then about the same again on extractor and other accessories, but you can pick up a cheap AB and compressor for about £80 (but may have issues with QC and getting spares), we went for a known quantity straight from the word go as we didn't want to muck around and I'm generally not one for buying cheap stuff if it's likely to get a lot of use.
Man of Honour
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Bought some Ork Boyz but never painted one before.
Any tips for painting them, Ork barricades and Aegis defence lines ?
Any tips for painting them, Ork barricades and Aegis defence lines ?
Man of Honour
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been working on this for a competition;
pleased enough to call it finished.
As perfect a paint job as you will see. Excellent work there vin.
Not quite GW, but related
I was at Campaign yesterday for a bit and was looking around and I was really impressed with the Warmill laser cut MDF building packs, things like cargo pods/space porta cabins (ranging from a single pod, to an entire outpost with multiple pots and two levels), barricades etc.
They also had a new "bar" type thing that was really nice with etched acrylic signage - if I get one I can see the use of fibre optics and/or micro LED's in it's future.
I can see the sets being very good for Tau, Impguard and Marines (even possibly Necormunda), they're a little different to the normal plastic stuff in a good way
I was at Campaign yesterday for a bit and was looking around and I was really impressed with the Warmill laser cut MDF building packs, things like cargo pods/space porta cabins (ranging from a single pod, to an entire outpost with multiple pots and two levels), barricades etc.
They also had a new "bar" type thing that was really nice with etched acrylic signage - if I get one I can see the use of fibre optics and/or micro LED's in it's future.
I can see the sets being very good for Tau, Impguard and Marines (even possibly Necormunda), they're a little different to the normal plastic stuff in a good way
Well. I have had a new found passion. I have cracked open my Eldar box and started painting them.
My best mate is the Manager of the Crewe store...for about 2 weeks longer...I have applied to take his place...never worked for GW before, but I believe I have what it takes. Wish me luck!
My best mate is the Manager of the Crewe store...for about 2 weeks longer...I have applied to take his place...never worked for GW before, but I believe I have what it takes. Wish me luck!
Man of Honour
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Bump.
Any tips on Ork barricades, Ork Boyz and Aegis defence lines ?
Any tips on Ork barricades, Ork Boyz and Aegis defence lines ?
Used to play a lot back in the mid-late 90s. Started with Space Marine (which was rereleased as Epic) and 40K but had around 4-5 large fantasy armies, a few necromunda gangs, blood bowl teams, a couple of Gorka Morka gangs and quest characters.
Arranging for a day of Warhammer Quest over the Jubilee weekend, can't wait, hoping to get a good 3-4 dungeons in at least including the town travel and what not. Who needs Diablo 3
Arranging for a day of Warhammer Quest over the Jubilee weekend, can't wait, hoping to get a good 3-4 dungeons in at least including the town travel and what not. Who needs Diablo 3
My painting/playing has completely stalled atm. Was hoping to get a whfb army & 40k army finished by end of june (both are part done), but looks like I might not even get a chance to do anymore painting before then.
Good luck with the job application jaffa, they are a great company to work for, I'm tempted to see if they have anything going in my local area tbh
Good luck with the job application jaffa, they are a great company to work for, I'm tempted to see if they have anything going in my local area tbh
Good luck with the job app Jaffa, prepare for having to be all bouncy and energetic whenever anyone enters the store though 
Raziel1, I'm trying to get on with painting at the moment, but barely managing 15-30 minutes every few days
I've got an entire swarm of Skaven to do and not the time/energy to do them.
On a side note, anyone seen the rumours of a price increase for GW stuff?
If they are true some bits are going up by nearly 50% (movement trays, some of the scenery), codexs seem to be getting yet another price increase.
I worked out earlier that it's going to be much cheaper for me to buy sheet metal from ebay to make movement trays than it is to buy the GW ones, and the sheet metal will be fine for my plans for magnetised hordes (I'm fed up of models falling over on movement trays, so I've been planning on putting magnets in their bases for a while). The only downside with that plan for movement trays is it'll be more faff to make the basic tray.
Raziel1, I'm trying to get on with painting at the moment, but barely managing 15-30 minutes every few days
I've got an entire swarm of Skaven to do and not the time/energy to do them.
On a side note, anyone seen the rumours of a price increase for GW stuff?
If they are true some bits are going up by nearly 50% (movement trays, some of the scenery), codexs seem to be getting yet another price increase.
I worked out earlier that it's going to be much cheaper for me to buy sheet metal from ebay to make movement trays than it is to buy the GW ones, and the sheet metal will be fine for my plans for magnetised hordes (I'm fed up of models falling over on movement trays, so I've been planning on putting magnets in their bases for a while). The only downside with that plan for movement trays is it'll be more faff to make the basic tray.
Man of Honour
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In an impulsive buy, I got some Necron Warriors. What is the best wash to use on them ?
Spray black, hit with a nice dark metal, drybrush or highlight with a lighter metal, then hit with the Nuln Oil shade
Yup, clean with hot soapy water and toothbrush, then leave to dry and hit with black spray, then paint, then hit with matt varnish
Yup, clean with hot soapy water and toothbrush, then leave to dry and hit with black spray, then paint, then hit with matt varnish
Thanks for that
Well decided I should get back to painting my Lizardmen and realised I have more to paint than I thought lol.
But some questions I guess.
1. Do people go with a white or black undercoat? My army is purple so been using the black, but thinking would white undercoat give a more brighter look to the purple?
2. What are the new textured paints like? Not had a chance to pop into a store to try them yet?
3. Do people still use the GW cases to move their models about or is there a cheaper or better alternative out there?
4. Do people undercoat / paint on the spru or build the model then undercoat and paint?
I have bought Dreadfleet, opened the box and gone that looks pretty but not even though about putting it together yet.
Kimbie
But some questions I guess.
1. Do people go with a white or black undercoat? My army is purple so been using the black, but thinking would white undercoat give a more brighter look to the purple?
2. What are the new textured paints like? Not had a chance to pop into a store to try them yet?
3. Do people still use the GW cases to move their models about or is there a cheaper or better alternative out there?
4. Do people undercoat / paint on the spru or build the model then undercoat and paint?
I have bought Dreadfleet, opened the box and gone that looks pretty but not even though about putting it together yet.
Kimbie
Soldato
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- 3 Oct 2006
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- 8,537
always black, generally white is seen as belonging to the realm of pro painters and it's much harder to get a decent finish.
not used, don't rate them from looking at them
KR cases all the way for me now.
assemble then paint, it's just easier to clip the pieces off, prepare them, stick them together and then paint them rather than the reverse.
not used, don't rate them from looking at them
KR cases all the way for me now.
assemble then paint, it's just easier to clip the pieces off, prepare them, stick them together and then paint them rather than the reverse.
The new Texture paints really are nothing more than sand and paint, but in that alone your saving a step or two in terms of time. Useful if your doing 80 zombies. I used to water down PVA, then sand, then wait for it to dry, then paint/drybrush/grass.
It is more expensive, but quicker, and you can get decent enough result if you drybrush and stick tufts on etc. Just finished a Corpse Cart with Stirland Mud Texture paint used on entire base(probably used 15% of a pot).
It is more expensive, but quicker, and you can get decent enough result if you drybrush and stick tufts on etc. Just finished a Corpse Cart with Stirland Mud Texture paint used on entire base(probably used 15% of a pot).
