Tabletop Warhammer?

Is there anything wrong with priming all the bits whilst still in the sprue? Can't think of a disadvantage for my plague marines at least. Other than a bit will be missing once I cut them off and remove any excess but that will be sorted later.

Edit: Just realised why it's a bad idea, mould lines.

Is priming things different colour normal? On the Putrifier, the bottles etc on the back are not green like the rest, so would you prime those white/grey etc or just stick with the green? Obv can be any colour I am just curious. Forgot my bloody blutac when I was out so I'm stuck for priming a few bits until I get it, will start preparing some other parts I guess.

Once you get the hang of it for some parts it's easy to paint on the sprue.

Also fine for different primers, otherwise you'd need to do a number of different coats to cover e.g. the green. Are you using citadel paints? Grey seer tends to work great as a base for most paints.
 
Is there anything wrong with priming all the bits whilst still in the sprue? Can't think of a disadvantage for my plague marines at least. Other than a bit will be missing once I cut them off and remove any excess but that will be sorted later.

Edit: Just realised why it's a bad idea, mould lines.

Is priming things different colour normal? On the Putrifier, the bottles etc on the back are not green like the rest, so would you prime those white/grey etc or just stick with the green? Obv can be any colour I am just curious. Forgot my bloody blutac when I was out so I'm stuck for priming a few bits until I get it, will start preparing some other parts I guess.

Mould lines as you said, plus once you clip it off you'll have to clean that up, then you'll basically have to prime it again to cover the fresh bits.

If you want my opinion sub-assemblies for troops and minor characters is a massive time sink with little benefit in 99% of cases. On that putrifier I'd maybe think about leaving his arms off, but I probably wouldn't even do that. I also hate glueing painted models together. Plastic glue will mess with the paint, superglue clouds up and turns stuff white, etc etc. Unless the glue points are hidden it invariably causes issues.

If you can't get to it with your paintbrush, you probably can't get to it with your eyeballs! Plus the only person that's ever going to be holding it upside down under a painting lamp six inches from their face is you.

There's definitely times and places for sub-assemblies (ork lootas made me want to claw my eyes out painting fully assembled but I got there) but you'll be surprised what you can get to with your brush once you've had some practice.
 
So, my first time painting in probably 15 years. So gonna detail my steps here if you have any tips or suggestions, mucho appreciated.

Also, im effectively starting from scratch so nice fancy holders and the like are on the way.So right now its make do with whats around :D

Using halfords primers, no1 im familiar with using them and no2 if you get them on 3 for 2 it works out really economical.

The cans were left in hot water for 5 minutes before being well shaken and used.

First coat pure matte black. Covered everything from every direction.

Second coat in grey from a 45 degree top down angle.

Third coat white straight down.

While the camera doesnt pick it up, in person as you rotate the model it has a really nice transition from almost pure white on top to pure black underneith.

So far happy with the primer application, its gone on nice and light and none of the detail has been lost.


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Mould lines as you said, plus once you clip it off you'll have to clean that up, then you'll basically have to prime it again to cover the fresh bits.

If you want my opinion sub-assemblies for troops and minor characters is a massive time sink with little benefit in 99% of cases. On that putrifier I'd maybe think about leaving his arms off, but I probably wouldn't even do that. I also hate glueing painted models together. Plastic glue will mess with the paint, superglue clouds up and turns stuff white, etc etc. Unless the glue points are hidden it invariably causes issues.

If you can't get to it with your paintbrush, you probably can't get to it with your eyeballs! Plus the only person that's ever going to be holding it upside down under a painting lamp six inches from their face is you.

There's definitely times and places for sub-assemblies (ork lootas made me want to claw my eyes out painting fully assembled but I got there) but you'll be surprised what you can get to with your brush once you've had some practice.

Thanks for this, I realised after last night that I am probably going to lose interest if I spend as long as I have been just on one model! I think first goal is to assemble a few more, taking note of the 10th gen rules re loadouts and go from there. I CBA with magnetising, seems another annoying step, maybe on bigger models.

@kindai Looks like a good priming. I read a lot about zenithal highlight but not sure of the advantage for my particular models

Just ordered the brush on glue, the citadel one comes out too fast for my liking.
edit: I really should have left the 'wings off' before I try and paint it, no way I have the finesse for getting around them but never mind.
edit2: ffs, jsut seen in the index cards that plague marines are either 5 or 10, you get 7 with the combat patrol box lol, so I leave 2 out or have to get another 3. I'm also confused with what some of the weapons are, the instructions could really be better.
 
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edit2: ffs, jsut seen in the index cards that plague marines are either 5 or 10, you get 7 with the combat patrol box lol, so I leave 2 out or have to get another 3. I'm also confused with what some of the weapons are, the instructions could really be better.

I'm by no means an expert on playing the game, as I don't play it, but I think where it says

Code:
UNIT COMPOSITION
■ 1 Plague Champion
■ 4-9 Plague Marines

This means anywhere between 5 and 10, not 5 or 10. Reaching multiples of 5 opens up more options in terms of how they can be equipped - in simplistic terms, they're allowed one 'special' weapon loadout per 5 models, so with 7, I think you can still only have one equipped with something other than a plague boltgun.
 
Allow me to coherently put across what is confusing me. On the updated Field Manual, it shows 5 or 10 plague marines suggesting to me that you can only field in those exact quantities. All info taken from 10E Index

Code:
UNIT COMPOSITION
■ 1 Plague Champion
■ 4-9 Plague Marines
Every model is equipped with: plague boltgun; plague knives.

I interpret this as you explained, a minimum of 1x Champion and 4x Marines. I am unsure on the last part, does this mean as a default that is what they carry or they all carry this in addition to chosen weapons, that would be odd as wouldn't that mean you get multiple firing attacks or does that only apply to vehicles?

Code:
■ The Plague Champion’s plague boltgun can be
replaced with one of the following:
◦ 1 plague bolt pistol
◦ 1 plasma gun
◦ 1 plasma pistol
■ The Plague Champion’s plague knives can be
replaced with one of the following:
◦ 1 bubotic weapons
◦ 1 heavy plague weapon

This confuses me because, and I suspect this is due to the set being released during a different edition, but see below on the assembly instructions.


The instructions show a champion with either (I think) a bolt pistol/plasma pistol, and a plague claw/sword. However, on 10th edition melee fall under 3 categories:
Code:
Bubotic weapons [LETHAL HITS]
Heavy plague weapon [LETHAL HITS]
Plague knives [LETHAL HITS]

Now, in 9th edition all the weapons had their own stats, eg, plague claw, mace of contagion etc etc. So it looks like they are now just lumped under either Bubotic or Heavy, but what determines which one is which?

Here are the weapons per the boxset instructions:

image storage

In my mind, a heavy weapon is a 2 hander so 10 & 11. Bubotic weapons I think are the 1h variants 9, 12, 13 (14?), there are some other accessories like a thing with 3 bells on and a rod with a skull on. Not sure why same image is for two, GW could have added the names of the weapons next to the stats in the manual ideally. So regarding the champion, the instructions indicate he can have a plasma gun (2 handed) but also a heavy plague weapon which is also 2 handed which makes no sense, certainly doesn't match with the assembly options but again, this was a previous version when the minis were released.

For the marines:

Code:
For every 5 models in this unit 1 Plague Marine's plague bolt gun can be replace with 1 blight launcher.

For every 5 models in this unit 1 Plague Marine's plague bolt gun can be replace with 1 plague spewer.

For every 5 models in this unit 1 Plague Marine's plague bolt gun can be replace with one of the following:
◦ 1 meltagun
◦ 1 plague belcher
◦ 1 plasma gun

For every 5 models in this unit up to 2 Plague Marine's can have their plague bolt gun replaced with 1 bubotic weapons.

For every 5 models in this unit up to 2 Plague Marine's can have their plague bolt gun replaced with 1 heavy plague weapons.

As the maximum is 10 units total, this suggests that if you have a squad of 5 (1 champ, 4 marines), you can fit all marines with a different ranged weapon. If I had 9 marines, I could have 5 different ranged weapons, and equip 2 further marines with a bubotic weapon and a heavy. So 2 marines would have to stay standard. I guess that gives flexibility to make them either melee focused or ranged.
 
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Allow me to coherently put across what is confusing me. On the updated Field Manual, it shows 5 or 10 plague marines suggesting to me that you can only field in those exact quantities. All info taken from 10E Index

Most of the weapon stuff is completely beyond my understanding of the rules at the moment, so I won't try to clarify (or more likely confuse) any further on that subject. :p

The Field Manual you linked starts with the following statement:

You can use this document to determine the points (pts) value of each unit in your army. Each entry lists the increments to a unit’s size that incur different points costs. This may change with the addition of each individual model (e.g. 1 model, 2models, 3 models, etc.) or it may be presented with a lower and upper limit to a unit’s Starting Strength (e.g. one cost for 5 models, another cost for 10 models). In the latter case, your units can contain a number of models in between these limits, but you must still pay the maximum points cost for a unit that starts the game with more than its minimum number of models. You can learn more about using points to muster your army on pages 55-56 of the Core Rules.

That reads to me that you may be able to field a unit of 7 but you'll have to pay a points cost of an 'up to 10' unit size.

Thanks for this, I realised after last night that I am probably going to lose interest if I spend as long as I have been just on one model! I think first goal is to assemble a few more, taking note of the 10th gen rules re loadouts and go from there. I CBA with magnetising, seems another annoying step, maybe on bigger models.

@kindai Looks like a good priming. I read a lot about zenithal highlight but not sure of the advantage for my particular models

Just ordered the brush on glue, the citadel one comes out too fast for my liking.

On the painting topic, don't get too caught up in trying to go with every clever or advanced technique you've found on YouTube - keep things simple to start with. Sub-assemblies, zenithal highlights, underpainting, magnetising etc. etc. are all things you can worry about later.

To get started, you can get results that are more than good enough by building your models, priming them an appropriate colour and getting to some painting (whether you're using classic paints or contrast paints). As @PardonTheWait the wait says, don't fret about painting stuff you can't see anyway - if you can't reach it with a brush when it's assembled, more often than not you won't see it either.

If you don't get stuck into a nice simple method that works for you to get lots of models turned around, you'll rapidly get bored of painting your 27th poxwalkers individual arm before painstakingly trying to glue it without ruining the paint. That's when people give up on it as it's more of a chore than an enjoyable hobby. You want to be getting rank and file troops turned around reasonably quickly, use them to practice your technique and then spend more time on lead units, characters, special models etc. that warrant effort spent on edge highlighting and things like that. You also have the option of going back to earlier models that you've turned around in bulk to add a few finishing touches if you want.

These models have both been done using nothing but quick and dirty techniques - paint a colour, drybrush highlights, shade wash, pick out a few details. Both i'm more than happy with, though the chaplain had a little more attention paid to it and I may one day go back to add a little more detail, edge highlighting etc.

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@Kenai, that is professional grade to my untrained eye! No way I will get there any time soon. I am however guilty of spending too much time on theory and none so far on practical. MY first step I think will be to spray a few marines with death guard green, conflicting information per usual as to if you can do that to count as base+primer or if you should still prime anyway. In my naivety, when I got all those paints I didn't realise contrast and normal paints were two separate things but ultimately it probably doesn't matter.
 
They're definitely far from professional and for once the camera probably flatters them rather than highlights my less than stellar abilities :p As said, they're the product of quick and dirty techniques that require very little skill to achieve. It really won't take you very long at all to get to that sort of finish if you follow a few of the beginner and speedpainting tutorials from YouTubers like MidwinterMinis.

With regards to whether you can prime with the colour sprays - the Ultramarine in the above picture was simply sprayed blue and then I got stuck straight into highlighting and shading. No issue with doing this if you're not looking for studio quality results.

When it comes to classic or contrast paints, the thing to bear in mind is that contrast paints are designed to go over a light basecoat and do all the colour, highlight and shade in one go. If you prime in your base green colour, contrast paints won't work ideally for any major aspects of painting, you'll need to highlight and shade as per 'classic' painting methods. Contrast may still work for particular details but you wouldn't want to slap a green contrast paint all over your green basecoat, you'll end up with a very dark muddy green that way. For details like the tongues, teeth, tentacles etc. though, contrasts will give a great easy result but you'll probably want to paint those details white/light grey/light cream first to let the contrast work properly.
 
That ultramarine looks mint for "quick and dirty"!!

Cheers. My skill level is such that I still feel I get better results from simpler/easier things like drybrushing my highlights than manually edge highlighting for example.

These sort of techniques produce a good standard for 'tabletop' ready paintjobs and are plenty good enough for me to be pleased with them but if you lined them up next to stuff that @PardonTheWait has painted for example, you'd soon see the shortcomings in comparison.
 
Cheers. My skill level is such that I still feel I get better results from simpler/easier things like drybrushing my highlights than manually edge highlighting for example.

These sort of techniques produce a good standard for 'tabletop' ready paintjobs and are plenty good enough for me to be pleased with them but if you lined them up next to stuff that @PardonTheWait has painted for example, you'd soon see the shortcomings in comparison.

What gold are you using? Ive been thinking of picking up the hoplite gold as the reviews on it looks amazing about how easy it is to work with.
 
I thought he meant like it looks fresh out the factory as in not dirty but I may have interpreted that wrong lol. Either way, looks great.

Realised a few things. I don't have to assemble the miniatures per the instructions, but I do need to consult the indices to make sure I am following any rules. It seems that you can say a model is using a different weapon to what is assembled but this could get annoying to micro manage in a game. Also I got a bad gap on my second model! I guess as it's just for tabletop it shouldn't bother me but still annoying. PS: In case anyone is competitive, Death Guard are possibly the worst faction currently according to those in the know.
 
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What gold are you using? Ive been thinking of picking up the hoplite gold as the reviews on it looks amazing about how easy it is to work with.
I think those were Citadel Retributor Armour - all my metallics are still regular Citadel paints, not tried any metallic speedpaints/contrasts yet.
 
Speaking of paints, I'm triggered because two of them have a white lid. Going to see if I can find someone who does 3d printed holders for them rather than buy anything substantial.

From a beginner POV, the two best things I got were the Tamija fine point cutters, allows you to get really close and effortless, also the 'get-a-grip' painting handle ultimate, really versatile.
 
I thought he meant like it looks fresh out the factory as in not dirty but I may have interpreted that wrong lol. Either way, looks great.

Realised a few things. I don't have to assemble the miniatures per the instructions, but I do need to consult the indices to make sure I am following any rules. It seems that you can say a model is using a different weapon to what is assembled but this could get annoying to micro manage in a game. Also I got a bad gap on my second model! I guess as it's just for tabletop it shouldn't bother me but still annoying. PS: In case anyone is competitive, Death Guard are possibly the worst faction currently according to those in the know.
Just as a note on the final point; the kind of people who are talking about Death Guard as 'the worst' are usually the hyper-competitive players who will drop an army the moment it is perceived as being bad. Rule of cool is the only one that matters, if you like it then play it.
 
Just as a note on the final point; the kind of people who are talking about Death Guard as 'the worst' are usually the hyper-competitive players who will drop an army the moment it is perceived as being bad. Rule of cool is the only one that matters, if you like it then play it.

I appreciate that is probably the case, I did see a post on the club fb group today re a casual tournament "Eldar and Knights limited to 1500pts. Deathguard and ad-mech increased to 2250pts just to have a chance lol" :D

Decided I will paint my Leviathan figures in white scars scheme, I think they can't use dreadnoughts officially but that's ok as I can just play them as normal Astartes. Also remembered I could use the Tyranids to practice some painting before I try the ones I intend to play with.

Can any veterans advise if this 10E launch is normal? like it feels rushed as not all factions have index/codex yet etc.
 
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Can any veterans advise if this 10E launch is normal? like it feels rushed as not all factions have index/codex yet etc.

It's quite normal for new codex books to be released throughout the time an edition is active, along with new miniatures quite often, not everything drops day 1.


Is there anything in particular you feel is 'missing' at the moment?
 
It's quite normal for new codex books to be released throughout the time an edition is active, along with new miniatures quite often, not everything drops day 1.

Is there anything in particular you feel is 'missing' at the moment?

Not for me personally but I understand that sub factions had their own codex and rules in other editions and so if I had an Imperial Fist/White Scar/Salamander army then at the moment you have to just play them as standard Space Marines.
 
Not for me personally but I understand that sub factions had their own codex and rules in other editions and so if I had an Imperial Fist/White Scar/Salamander army then at the moment you have to just play them as standard Space Marines.
Minor factions like that might get a supplement at some point but they're not likely to get a full codex like Dark Angels, Blood Angels, Space Wolves etc. probably will. I would assume if it's not listed on the Munitorum contents, it probably won't get its own full codex. Even all of those factions may not get one.

White Scars will probably get a few special rules mentioned when the general Space Marines codex appears but that's probably all for a while.
 
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