Tabletop Warhammer?

When thinning metallics. Is the right level when I can see the flecks moving around in the liquid?
I find I seem to go through a lot of paint for not a lot of model and wonder if I'm doing yet something else wrong.
 
Noxia said:
Is the right level when I can see the flecks moving around in the liquid?
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From my experience this is too much.

When thinning metalics I usually just use a damp brush when using water, or, if using lahmian medium use a brush loaded with medium and mix it into a drop or 2 of metallic paint.
 
kindai said:
From my experience this is too much.

When thinning metalics I usually just use a damp brush when using water, or, if using lahmian medium use a brush loaded with medium and mix it into a drop or 2 of metallic paint.
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That would explain why I haven't covered my contrast streak marks after 3 coats. Trying to avoid stripping the part as I get told off in here :D

Can't win. Always too thick or thin. I'd really benefit from in person 1-2-1 tutoring but I haven't found anything close to me yet.
Siege do group ones but they ideally want you to have a airbrush and that's not something I really want to try again.

Edit. Actually see cult of paint are doing a class in Cheltenham. Might take a punt. Oh no I won't, it's sold out damnit. It was the basics one too which would have been useful.
 
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Noxia said:
That would explain why I haven't covered my contrast streak marks after 3 coats. Trying to avoid stripping the part as I get told off in here :D

Can't win. Always too thick or thin. I'd really benefit from in person 1-2-1 tutoring but I haven't found anything close to me yet.
Siege do group ones but they ideally want you to have a airbrush and that's not something I really want to try again.

Edit. Actually see cult of paint are doing a class in Cheltenham. Might take a punt. Oh no I won't, it's sold out damnit. It was the basics one too which would have been useful.
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I feel kind of similar about metallics, it is tricky to thin them so that they’re not gloopy but also not completely watery. I don’t like painting metallics very much and have never been very good at it.

I found that putting a drop or two of flow improver on my palette and thinning with that helps a bit with some paints.

Scale75 metallics are a lot nicer to use than citadel as well. Vallejo metal colour are extremely good also. Hear good things about AK metallics and I ordered some last night, will let you know if they’re any good.

For actually painting metallics I tend to use them a bit thicker than normal acrylics, they always look rough going on but usually dry ok. Mixing a little bit of black in with the first coat of silver works too, either paint or ink.

But yeah they are a bit unpleasant compared to normal paint to use.

Also stop stripping your minis every five minutes! If your paint isn’t covering the answer definitely ISNT taking paint off bro it’s putting paint on! I’m gonna come round and take your IPA away if you’re not careful
 
I can confirm no stripping today.

Something I've noticed and now I'm wondering if it's a 'thing'. When doing a brush stroke, the paint is thicker at the end of the stroke and pools a little. It dries more solid too but that shouldn't matter hopefully by the end.
I try and finish on an edge but this isn't always possible depending on the size of what I'm doing. Is there some technique or whatever one should do with this?
 
PardonTheWait said:
Generally try to avoid it by making sure your brush isn't too loaded but you can use it for glazing and layering etc
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Man can't win. Honestly, guess it's a consistency thing again.
Painting my weapons white ATM, the GW method is eshin grey and then highlight with white but I prefer the purer white. 5 layers so far (over leasbelcher spray) and it finally looks ok from about 30cm. That will do.

Bolters are ok it's the bloody spud launchers taking ages. Don't even want to think about vehicle weapons but I've magnetised them so could go straight in with the white scar spray.

Any tips for spud launcher? It's too much white I do it all. If I wasn't inept I'd do some hazard lines or something to break it up. Might do the end segment metal, maybe the back black but then there's the who thing underneath.

 
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Noxia said:
Man can't win. Honestly, guess it's a consistency thing again.
Painting my weapons white ATM, the GW method is eshin grey and then highlight with white but I prefer the purer white. 5 layers so far (over leasbelcher spray) and it finally looks ok from about 30cm. That will do.
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Basically the blob at the end is to be avoided unless you want/need it for some reason, if you’re trying to paint a smooth colour then you want it smooth, if you’re shading then you can use it to your advantage. It’s quite tricky though.

The GW scheme is right for white - if you’re painting them pure white how are you going to highlight them? Go and look at any white thing in your house, it will be majority NOT white.

Even better, put a picture of a white thing into photoshop or similar and use the eyedropper all over it. There will be very little pure white.

Paint them a lightish grey and highlight them up to white, it will look better and be easier. Basically never paint anything completely white.

Edit: I’m going to be straight with you I hardly ever paint anything white because it’s super hard, and I’m not alone. I have a lot of white checks and dags on my orks, but fully painting stuff white? Avoid!

Even a lot of Iron Hands models don’t have white weapons because you know… nope
 
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I thought the highlight would be with a brighter white, current one is equivalent to corax and the other is white scar I think.

I've got the heavy bolt rifles looking decent because there isn't too much casing so they can stay. As you say, I should probably switch to the cold white recipe for other stuff. Im sure my apothecary white contrast gives the same effectish. Deffo not white white as you say looking at codex, though the plasma on the dread looks white to me.





close up pics pack 2 answers

I was following warhipster guide for them but having done the diluted blue wash (leviadon) stage, I think I just prefer it with the Templar over leasbelcher primer and then highlight edges. Though the one I've done they stand out a bit too bright so might just carefully nuln them.

Also forgot to put the bloody chapter shoulder pads on. So can try prise them off or try find some decals instead. I have the clan decals separately.
 
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That dread’s plasma is very white. I couldn’t do that in a month of Sundays personally.

I’d go for more like what the gun on top of Iron Father Ferrari Rocher or whatever his name is, looks much easier!
 
PardonTheWait said:
That dread’s plasma is very white. I couldn’t do that in a month of Sundays personally.

I’d go for more like what the gun on top of Iron Father Ferrari Rocher or whatever his name is, looks much easier!
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Probs airbrush isn't it?

I've noticed that Ulthian? Grey is closer to white than the other one which is more blue, so I'm gonna build with that and use the corax for highlights.
 
Just got back into this after nearly 20 years away.

Have got some grey knights, some imperial knights and night lords.

I have primed and blu tac’d the grey knights and imperial knights ready to start painting however I have to admit that my procrastination is strong I’ve spent a few days transferring my citadel paints into dropper bottles…

My conclusion so far is I’m scared to paint as my expectations will not match my results, daft I know but it’s my best assumption so far.

I’d also like to actually try playing but there seems limited clubs and venues where I am.
 
MrMcG said:
Just got back into this after nearly 20 years away.

Have got some grey knights, some imperial knights and night lords.

I have primed and blu tac’d the grey knights and imperial knights ready to start painting however I have to admit that my procrastination is strong I’ve spent a few days transferring my citadel paints into dropper bottles…

My conclusion so far is I’m scared to paint as my expectations will not match my results, daft I know but it’s my best assumption so far.

I’d also like to actually try playing but there seems limited clubs and venues where I am.
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Pick up that brush and get painting. Your first models won’t be up to your expectations but after a few you’ll start noticing your improvements.

Also don’t take pictures of your models, if they look good from half an arm length away then it’s good enough!

Where abouts in London are you?
 
I'd rather strip a model that field something **** that I can't fix other wise lol.
The trick is if course to not make any mistakes, ever.

I like the look of the blinding light speed paint, might get it to try and a bottle of titanium white from pro acryll.
 
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