Soldato
- Joined
- 26 Aug 2003
- Posts
- 24,268
The red isn’t but the weathering and chipping is.
And they are Blood Ravens I’ll thank you very much
Tabletop Warhammer?
- Thread starter Arcimbaldo
- Start date
The red isn’t but the weathering and chipping is.
And they are Blood Ravens I’ll thank you very much
The red isn’t but the weathering and chipping is.
And they are Blood Ravens I’ll thank you very much
Same thing
Next you'll be telling me iron warriors and iron hands are different..
My super cheap extractor thing arrived. I wondered if it would be better than nothing. Time shall soon tell.
Also another thing I caught on is there is a COP paint range coming later this year, I wonder if it will be aimed at airbrushers.
Last edited:
All finished
Last edited:
Soldato
Not warhammer but thought i would put it here:
My 5 year old son had this:
(pciture taken from internet)
Don't think it was a bad model for a cheap plastic kids toy.
My 5 year old son had this:
(pciture taken from internet)
Don't think it was a bad model for a cheap plastic kids toy.
@BUDFORCE This is a safe space mate, you don't need to pretend it's your son's.
@kindai great job as always. I don't know how to articulate this but it 'says a lot's with very few colours.
Im gonna do some very minor airbrushing later just to give it a go. Gonna Ulthuan Grey the weapons on one of my tanks. I suspect I'm gonna need to thin it a fair bit.
BTW has anyone seen the below video? I am baffled as to what the stage is that suddenly makes the model read as black, literal witchcraft because no black is used. I think it's the Tamiya smoke but it looks totally different one minute to the next.
www.youtube.com
My airbrush test went about as well as expected from there's no paint coming out to suddenly Oh my god all the paints come out. I'm actually not sure if I'm supposed to be trying to control the flow from the airbrush trigger or the compressor itself as in should I be depressing the trigger fully or trying to control the spray. I might try a lower PSI maybe to 20.
@kindai great job as always. I don't know how to articulate this but it 'says a lot's with very few colours.
Im gonna do some very minor airbrushing later just to give it a go. Gonna Ulthuan Grey the weapons on one of my tanks. I suspect I'm gonna need to thin it a fair bit.
BTW has anyone seen the below video? I am baffled as to what the stage is that suddenly makes the model read as black, literal witchcraft because no black is used. I think it's the Tamiya smoke but it looks totally different one minute to the next.
How to Paint IRON HANDS Space Marines for Warhammer 40k and the Horus Heresy
In this video, we take a look at how to paint a great scheme for Horus Heresy era Iron Hands, although it would look fantastic on your 40k Primaris Space Mar...
www.youtube.com
My airbrush test went about as well as expected from there's no paint coming out to suddenly Oh my god all the paints come out. I'm actually not sure if I'm supposed to be trying to control the flow from the airbrush trigger or the compressor itself as in should I be depressing the trigger fully or trying to control the spray. I might try a lower PSI maybe to 20.
Last edited:
Soldato
- Joined
- 26 Aug 2003
- Posts
- 24,268
Put a couple of drops of flow improver in first and spray it through, then put about 2/3 drops of flow improver and about 6/7 drops of thinner in, then maybe 5/6 drops of paint in and mix it up with a brush. Should go through ok for most paints at that kind of mix. I find most paints need to be 50/50 or usually more in favour of thinner/improver so it’s very thin, thinner than you’d expect. Thin coats that you have to let dry before next coat. You can give each coat a little blow just with air from the brush to get it to dry, which it will do quickly because it’s very thin.
I always have a bit of airbrush cleaner or thinner on a makeup sponge as well to clean the tip. Pretty much do it after every coat. Then use the other end of the sponge to wipe off the thinner/cleaner.
Acrylics cause a dry tip on airbrushes very quickly and very often.
The main thing though is always always put a bit of flow improver through it first to get the nozzle and needle wet with it.
I found airbrushing extremely frustrating for quite a long time and I’m only really getting the hang of it now. Stick with it.
Last edited:
Thanks for that. I did get some good results, lovely smooth application on a vehicle part.
I'm going to practice later on my plasticard. Probs use a contrast paint just to make things easier.
I felt my biggest issue was just the lack of paint I had despite putting what I classed as a big dollop in and a fair bit of thinner.
Not sure I have flow improver but I have a bottle that says medium retarder and I suspect that is the same because if not I have no idea why I have it.
I'm going to practice later on my plasticard. Probs use a contrast paint just to make things easier.
I felt my biggest issue was just the lack of paint I had despite putting what I classed as a big dollop in and a fair bit of thinner.
Not sure I have flow improver but I have a bottle that says medium retarder and I suspect that is the same because if not I have no idea why I have it.
Last edited:
Contrast paint and Citadel shades work really well straight out of the bottle with an airbrush
Oh and car screen wash works well as an airbrush cleaner too.Contrast paint and Citadel shades work really well straight out of the bottle with an airbrush
I thought it smelled a bit soapy! I had to use IPA in the cup to clean it but one thing I am confident on at least is cleaning the brush well.
Also a lot of people don't use the needle guard crown thing but I do because I'm clumsy.
Has your airbrush got the button at the end of the barrel, if so you can use it to adjust the throw/travel of the needle
Has your airbrush got the button at the end of the barrel, if so you can use it to adjust the throw/travel of the needle
Yeah it has a 1-6 and despite me putting it on each setting I can't feel what the difference is.
It controls how far the trigger goes back, so you don't blast too much paint through the nozzle.
Ohhh maybe it was more subtle than my brain could work out. Actually for trigger control I guess there is nothing wrong with simply putting water through it. I can still 'draw' shapes etc.
Good idea with the water, its really just trial and error to get your psi right and also paint thin enough to go through the brush.
I have used quite a bit of the Vallejo Air paints straight out of the bottle with no issues, the metallics are great, something else I would suggest is getting one of those pots which acts as a airbrush stand for when you are adding paint into the pot on top of the airbrush plus they are great to blow any excess paint into the pot prior to cleaning and flushing too.
They are as cheap as chips on Amazon and well worth getting.
Here you go with the adjuster
I have one of those pots from my first attempt lol.
As well as those pokey pipe cleaner type brushes but not seen a need for them yet. Though the little poker tool is good if there's a little clog in the nozzle. I use that same tool to put a mark before I drill a barrel hole.
Interesting session. I went over a terminator that was already primed in a leasbelcher equivalent, this was the VMC Steel, I then tried to do a sort of zenethil with white aluminium, perhaps most noticeable on part of the glove, shoulder pads and the back right leg.
Pics are out of order and I'm on mobile so CBA sort.
The two gloved pics are me trying to spray black templar very lightly, it came out a kind of grey which was cool.
Lastly the second coat, now I've lost the metallic look and it pretty much looks like I've just primed it black. It does have some reflectivity in light but disappointing result. I wonder if I should use contrast medium to thin it more, also I guess the difference between the steel and white aluminium may not be strong enough to work, but then it could have been the two contrast coats were too big.
I don't think the steel really went on well to the leadbelcher primer either but this wouldnt happen going forward.
Had a couple of blockages too so even contrast needs a bit of thinner it seems. The retarder I had was a gel which I wasn't expecting so will get a more liquidy flow improver.
Finally, I really hope I didn't damage my needle, upon reassembly the trigger had moved which meant as I was putting the needle back in it hit something and I couldn't push it forward more. Not sure how I could tell, visually pretty hard.
Pics are out of order and I'm on mobile so CBA sort.
The two gloved pics are me trying to spray black templar very lightly, it came out a kind of grey which was cool.
Lastly the second coat, now I've lost the metallic look and it pretty much looks like I've just primed it black. It does have some reflectivity in light but disappointing result. I wonder if I should use contrast medium to thin it more, also I guess the difference between the steel and white aluminium may not be strong enough to work, but then it could have been the two contrast coats were too big.
I don't think the steel really went on well to the leadbelcher primer either but this wouldnt happen going forward.
Had a couple of blockages too so even contrast needs a bit of thinner it seems. The retarder I had was a gel which I wasn't expecting so will get a more liquidy flow improver.
Finally, I really hope I didn't damage my needle, upon reassembly the trigger had moved which meant as I was putting the needle back in it hit something and I couldn't push it forward more. Not sure how I could tell, visually pretty hard.
Last edited:
Looking goodInteresting session. I went over a terminator that was already primed in a leasbelcher equivalent, this was the VMC Steel, I then tried to do a sort of zenethil with white aluminium, perhaps most noticeable on part of the glove, shoulder pads and the back right leg.
Pics are out of order and I'm on mobile so CBA sort.
The two gloved pics are me trying to spray black templar very lightly, it came out a kind of grey which was cool.
Lastly the second coat, now I've lost the metallic look and it pretty much looks like I've just primed it black. It does have some reflectivity in light but disappointing result. I wonder if I should use contrast medium to thin it more, also I guess the difference between the steel and white aluminium may not be strong enough to work, but then it could have been the two contrast coats were too big.
I don't think the steel really went on well to the leadbelcher primer either but this wouldnt happen going forward.
Had a couple of blockages too so even contrast needs a bit of thinner it seems. The retarder I had was a gel which I wasn't expecting so will get a more liquidy flow improver.
Finally, I really hope I didn't damage my needle, upon reassembly the trigger had moved which meant as I was putting the needle back in it hit something and I couldn't push it forward more. Not sure how I could tell, visually pretty hard.
Always remove the needle from the front and put the needle back into the airbrush from the front, that way you will keep the needle in good condition and not drag paint through the barrel of the airbrush.
What I tend to do is unscrew the barrel, loosen the needle, pull the needle back so it clears the nozzle, remove the nozzle, the push the needle forward so that you can remove the needle from the front.Looking good
Always remove the needle from the front and put the needle back into the airbrush from the front, that way you will keep the needle in good condition and not drag paint through the barrel of the airbrush.
After cleaning just do everything in reverse to put it all back together.
My previous comment was a bit late last night
Last edited: