Tabletop Warhammer?

roman59 said:
What I tend to do is unscrew the barrel, loosen the needle, pull the needle back so it clears the nozzle, remove the nozzle, the push the needle forward so that you can remove the needle from the front.
After cleaning just do everything in reverse to put it all back together.
My previous comment was a bit late last night ;)
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Didn't think to do it the other way. I'm going to get a spare needle incase I did bend it and good to have anyway for when I get annoyed with the guard on and need to keep wiping the needle and then drop my airbrush or something.

I believe it's this one: https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Harder-Steenbeck-123740-0.4mm-Needle.html
 
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Noxia said:
Didn't think to do it the other way. I'm going to get a spare needle incase I did bend it and good to have anyway for when I get annoyed with the guard on and need to keep wiping the needle and then drop my airbrush or something.

I believe it's this one: https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Harder-Steenbeck-123740-0.4mm-Needle.html
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Yep that's the right needle
Personally its safer pushing the blunt end of the needle in first rather than trying to push the pointed end in first :)
Especially with the 0.15 needle that I use on one of my airbrushes.
 
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roman59 said:
Yep that's the right needle
Personally its safer pushing the blunt end of the needle in first rather than trying to push the pointed end in first :)
Especially with the 0.15 needle that I use on one of my airbrushes.
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Yeah considering how delicate they are I'm pretty sure I probably damaged it. Though as I'm still new to this I wouldn't know what behaviour it was exhibiting to suggest that.

Still confused how I managed to black out that terminator. It didn't happen when I brushed on and as airbrushing atomises the paint I'd have thought it was thinner.
Then again, I was using a different base coat metal (colour forge steel primer) so I would need to apply the contrast with a brush over the VMC Steel to see how it compares to the airbrush.
 
roman59 said:
Take a look at some of Warhipsters Slaves To Darkness videos as they have black metallic armour and see if that's the type of finish your are after ;)
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I was literally following that war hipster iron Hands guide except I was using an airbrush lol.
Anyway, it's all part of the learning process.
 
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roman59 said:
That's very true my friend
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Actually now I recall I sprayed one of my tanks in that VMC Steel so I can just practise on that to see what happens.
Not sure if you have used that paint but I swear they have put something in it to make it smell nice. It almost smells like sweets.

I was going to decant my airbrush thinner to a dropper/neck bottle because I don't really like how it comes out of the bottle and I usually end up making it drip. But then those squirty bottles I can be a bit volatile too lol.
 
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Noxia said:
Finally, I really hope I didn't damage my needle, upon reassembly the trigger had moved which meant as I was putting the needle back in it hit something and I couldn't push it forward more. Not sure how I could tell, visually pretty hard.
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I did this on my ultra literally last week in the exact same way, I was wounded. Rescued it somewhat with extremely fine sanding sponge but it still wasn’t right after that so replaced it.

I always remove and replace my needle from the rear as the newer H&S needles have sharp ridges at the rear and I feel this can/will damage the rear packing seal. The needle collet at the rear guides the needle in dead straight so I do it that way.

Since last week I am extremely vigilant about checking if my trigger assembly has popped up though!

Re: your terminator that looks like a full coat of paint you’ve put over the silver hence why the shine has gone. I think you’d want to thin that down extremely thin with medium and/or do very very thin coat(s) to achieve the metallic black look.

Or just mix black ink/contrast in with some silver and do some experiments.

However contrast paint does dry fairly matte so it will definitely reduce/eliminate the shine and reflection of the metallic underneath.
 
Yeah it's an annoying mistake to make but one I'll only make once hopefully!
I'm going to contrast medium as stated but I'm still confused why it would be more opaque than when I brushed it on.
 
Noxia said:
Yeah it's an annoying mistake to make but one I'll only make once hopefully!
I'm going to contrast medium as stated but I'm still confused why it would be more opaque than when I brushed it on.
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Have you tried thinning down the contrast paint with Lahmian Medium then run it through your airbrush ?
 
Noxia said:
Yeah it's an annoying mistake to make but one I'll only make once hopefully!
I'm going to contrast medium as stated but I'm still confused why it would be more opaque than when I brushed it on.
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Possibly because it goes on thin and even, then dries, then your second thin coat goes on even, and so on, whereas by brush it does its thing and slides away from flat areas etc?

Haven’t really thought about it before as I haven’t airbrushed it over metallics, I’ve used Vallejo Xpress over a pre-shaded black and white model and it worked well but I really was using it as a normal paint, just one that would allow a bit more of the pre-shade to show
 
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I don't think the 'contrast' ability of contrast paints really works via an airbrush does it? You won't get the run off effect, it'll dry too quickly as it's being applied so thin and pretty much just behave like a normal paint but maybe ever so slightly less opaque.
 
roman59 said:
Have you tried thinning down the contrast paint with Lahmian Medium then run it through your airbrush ?
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Yes, got a similar result. Would be great if I wanted a very flat black lol.
PardonTheWait said:
Possibly because it goes on thin and even, then dries, then your second thin coat goes on even, and so on, whereas by brush it does its thing and slides away from flat areas etc?

Haven’t really thought about it before as I haven’t airbrushed it over metallics, I’ve used Vallejo Xpress over a pre-shaded black and white model and it worked well but I really was using it as a normal paint, just one that would allow a bit more of the pre-shade to show
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I read a lot about this before and it seems a lot of people do use contrast paint for an airbrush but perhaps for different results or effects that I'm getting. Interestingly, I sprayed some volupus pink over the metal and that turned into a candy metallic pink. It just doesn't work with the black. I will try a normal black paint I guess and see.
Kenai said:
I don't think the 'contrast' ability of contrast paints really works via an airbrush does it? You won't get the run off effect, it'll dry too quickly as it's being applied so thin and pretty much just behave like a normal paint but maybe ever so slightly less opaque.
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Conflicting information out there. Obviously you do not get the recess pooling benefit but you do get a good flat spray I guess.

Gonna keep on trucking. Only way to figure it out. I do seem to never get much paint now when I mix it myself like it looks a lot in my little mixing pot but then I pour it into the gravity cup and it barely gets above the feeder hole.

Like I put four 'drops' from a TTC paint and about 6 of thinner and yeah barely resulted in any. Rather than go mad and buy the whole range, I'm going to buy a couple of army painter air just to see what they like.

Another thing I've struggled with is when I sprayed the metal if I try to spray slightly underneath the last pass, the air from the gun would blow the previous pass around because it's so thin.

Oh and randomly white specks in pink paint, not touched white today, just black/metal/purples
Edit. Stuck my sharp poker thing in the nozzle and a couple of bits of white stuff came out. Possibly grey from yesterday.
 
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Cantankerous said:
Contrast style paints through the airbrush are more of a colour filter on what you spray onto. They act more like inks and other semi-transparent paints from my experience.
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Which is why I expected to see the metallic underneath just like when I brush it. Interesting
 
Cantankerous said:
Contrast style paints through the airbrush are more of a colour filter on what you spray onto. They act more like inks and other semi-transparent paints from my experience.
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Depends on the layering. My marines are flesh tearers red over silver base. Looks great! Gives a dark metallic red effect.
 
I once primed some miniatures with army painter pixie pink primer and then used a sort of zenithil and imperial fist contrast. These were very orange on the pink bits.

I used a paint that is equivalent of pink horror and used white to highlight. It looks worse than the photos make out. Basically I got a very nice yellow with a what is basically dirty brown. Another curious result.

I am going to try some pink horror citadel because I've just looked and it doesn't really look anything like the two thin coats equivalent.


 
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The dirty brown instead of a more orange I think might be due to the pigment mixes used in the paints. With so many paints mixing a load of pigments they mix poorly. Although brown is orange ;)

I've still not got anything I'm willing to show off painted but have been slowly working through building my stormcast. Not had a lot of time recently though.
 
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