Tabletop Warhammer?

[Werewolf]

Found an old box in storage which had my previous models / paints / tools etc - amazingly a number of the paints and shades are all still in good condition - just need to sort them all out and work out where to put it all...

If they're in the old white rubber topped bottles that's actually relatively normal.
If they're in any of the newer bottles you need to contact the Vatican to report a miracle, most of the current GW paints/bottles tend to result in them going solid/unusable within a year or so (sometimes before you've even opened them), although if you've got a decent vortex mixer (I got a cheap lab one), some stainless steel ball bearings and proper acrylic thinner you can sometimes revive at least the standard paints (my ~£100 mixer paid for itself very quickly).

Hi all. Just getting back into tabletop Warhammer, I used to play very old edition Warhammer Fanatasy battle (like 30 years ago) and stil have my old Orc/gobbo minis. I dont have the time though to consider building or playing the Old World thats been recently launched so ive got myself a Warcry set that im painting up as the skirmish based games look to be a much easier alternative to get back into.

Just wondering does anyone else play Warcry and know the best way to find other potential players in Essex area ? Dont really have any personal contacts of anyone anymore that plays . Im also keen on Kill Team so will be happy to pick up teams and terrain for that at some point. Seems like its difficult to find like minded people around my age into the hobby ?

Cheers

Around my area (not essex unfortunately), it seems most of the clubs are playing in the local churches and the likes of the Royal Legion or village halls, try a gander at facebook (urgh) for clubs in your area, and possibly try and see if your local churches etc have a site listing the regular clubs and meetings they hold.
It seems weeknights are more likely than weekends, because a Monday night tends not to be popular with things like one off events for a lot of places, so it's easier for a club to set up a regular night.

 

[Bar]

If they're in the old white rubber topped bottles that's actually relatively normal.
If they're in any of the newer bottles you need to contact the Vatican to report a miracle, most of the current GW paints/bottles tend to result in them going solid/unusable within a year or so (sometimes before you've even opened them), although if you've got a decent vortex mixer (I got a cheap lab one), some stainless steel ball bearings and proper acrylic thinner you can sometimes revive at least the standard paints (my ~£100 mixer paid for itself very quickly).

Will get a call in - some white tops but the rest are the newer style - they were maybe 3-6 months old before going into storage but they were in there for almost 2 years. Also found about 20 vallejo paints as well which can be added to the collection.

 

[Noxia]

Made good progress on Sunday. One of the many things frustrating me was the various levels of progress on my miniatures.

So I started with my intercessors which I hate but are necessary, removing all the salamander shoulder pads and replacing them with IH ones.

Same for the spud launchers. I then primed all the models chaos black in order to try and get some consistency when I do the next layers. Plus I was advised that gloss black would help with my metallics.

Spoiler

Iron Father Feirros is also primed albeit in subs due to some rather tricky bits. I also primed the 1/2 tech marines I've built.

Ballistus primed albeit through airbrush when I was trying it, along with the (forgot the name) some sort of transport tank thing that has been going on forever.

Right is newly primed with existing pink and other colours still showing which is fine as I'll make sure to cover with the airbrush.
Hopefully you can see in the left one the metallic through the black/brown coat. I will be happy if I can replicate that colour throughout.




Edit. Also ordered the new needle so I can rule out a bent one for any issues I get. As well as some liquid flow improver as I don't like that gel stuff. Also some decal stuff for when I get there.

 

[DavieJG]

Made good progress on Sunday. One of the many things frustrating me was the various levels of progress on my miniatures.

So I started with my intercessors which I hate but are necessary, removing all the salamander shoulder pads and replacing them with IH ones.

Same for the spud launchers. I then primed all the models chaos black in order to try and get some consistency when I do the next layers. Plus I was advised that gloss black would help with my metallics.

Spoiler

Iron Father Feirros is also primed albeit in subs due to some rather tricky bits. I also primed the 1/2 tech marines I've built.

Ballistus primed albeit through airbrush when I was trying it, along with the (forgot the name) some sort of transport tank thing that has been going on forever.

Right is newly primed with existing pink and other colours still showing which is fine as I'll make sure to cover with the airbrush.
Hopefully you can see in the left one the metallic through the black/brown coat. I will be happy if I can replicate that colour throughout.




Edit. Also ordered the new needle so I can rule out a bent one for any issues I get. As well as some liquid flow improver as I don't like that gel stuff. Also some decal stuff for when I get there.

Is that priming with airbrush or spray can? Looks like a nice coating without filling the details.

 

[Noxia]

Is that priming with airbrush or spray can? Looks like a nice coating without filling the details.

Chaos Black spray can but most of my primers are colour forged range, just I only have matte black in colour forge. If the weather is right, I still prefer to prime this way because it's actually far less hassle than setting up the airbrush. I only intend to use the airbrush in emergencies like if there is a consistent period of bad weather and I want to crack on.
I've only ever had issues with some of the lighter colours from a spray can like with flaking on wraithbone one etc.

24 models based in VMC steel, 1 dread, 1 tank in just under 2h. I can't even imagine how long that would have taken me to do it with a brush. And I'm going quite slow and cleaning in-between.

Start of tech marine, again, airbrush able to get smoother coats down than I can ever do with a brush.

 

[DavieJG]

Chaos Black spray can but most of my primers are colour forged range, just I only have matte black in colour forge. If the weather is right, I still prefer to prime this way because it's actually far less hassle than setting up the airbrush. I only intend to use the airbrush in emergencies like if there is a consistent period of bad weather and I want to crack on.
I've only ever had issues with some of the lighter colours from a spray can like with flaking on wraithbone one etc.

24 models based in VMC steel, 1 dread, 1 tank in just under 2h. I can't even imagine how long that would have taken me to do it with a brush. And I'm going quite slow and cleaning in-between.

Start of tech marine, again, airbrush able to get smoother coats down than I can ever do with a brush.

Sounds like must try harder on my part then. I was using army painter spray primer. Maybe just a can or skill issue

 

[Noxia]

Sounds like must try harder on my part then. I was using army painter spray primer. Maybe just a can or skill issue

Actually, I don't think it is you. I have got one army painter spray which was a pink and it sprayed at a much much lower pressure than any of the citadel or colour forge ones.

Hopefully you can see the zenethil effect with my metallics.
I am wondering if I might follow the cult of paint tutorial where they use tamiya smoke which is kind of a clear black paint which may preserve the highlights because I don't get that no matter how much I thin my other black.

Actually I might try nuln oil on one of the models I don't care about just to test.

 

[roman59]

Will get a call in - some white tops but the rest are the newer style - they were maybe 3-6 months old before going into storage but they were in there for almost 2 years. Also found about 20 vallejo paints as well which can be added to the collection.

Actually, I don't think it is you. I have got one army painter spray which was a pink and it sprayed at a much much lower pressure than any of the citadel or colour forge ones.

Hopefully you can see the zenethil effect with my metallics.
I am wondering if I might follow the cult of paint tutorial where they use tamiya smoke which is kind of a clear black paint which may preserve the highlights because I don't get that no matter how much I thin my other black.

Actually I might try nuln oil on one of the models I don't care about just to test.

The new reciprocating pen sander has just arrived, it come with 8 different shaped heads flat and curved, should speed things up a bit.

Cheers All

 

[Noxia]

@roman59 you're already putting us all to shame with your high quantity and quality outputs. Stop buying tools to further the gap please.

 

[roman59]

@roman59 you're already putting us all to shame with your high quantity and quality outputs. Stop buying tools to further the gap please.

I just want to make life easier

 

[Noxia]

I just want to make life easier

I hear you. Also..

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/transatlantisgames/two-thin-coats-wave-3?ref=ksr_email_mktg_auto_user_watched_project_launched

 

[Bigpig]

@roman59 must not buy!!

@Noxia that’s a nice red and the coat looks smooth.

 

[Noxia]

Very happy with tonight. I have got the exact formula in order to keep my zenithil which hopefully you can see on my intercessors and my terminators and also it is very obvious which of those terminators is different to the others.

I then decided to try an airbrush the weapons and to my surprise I was actually very accurate and didn't get more than maybe a speck or to on a couple of models of white on them.

Unfortunately I am at the stage where I will have to resume the brush work soon, but I am very happy with the start I have made and it looks like I might actually get these finished.

I might try and brush on the tamiya flat white on the iron hand shoulder symbols as a start to see how that goes.

 

[Kenai]

I might actually get these finished.

Don't jinx it

 

[Noxia]

Don't jinx it

Yeah my bad. We know I will mess up something on the brush part and end up stripping them.

I'm not sure I even want to try and edge highlight the terminators at this point

 

[Bigpig]

Great tip for airbrushing is silly putty or airbrush masking. It’s kinda like blue tac just cover the areas you don’t want to hit.

 

[Noxia]

Great tip for airbrushing is silly putty or airbrush masking. It’s kinda like blue tac just cover the areas you don’t want to hit.

Oh yeah I got some liquid latex brush on stuff I forgot about. Maybe I'll use that to do the shoulders.

 

[roman59]

Oh yeah I got some liquid latex brush on stuff I forgot about. Maybe I'll use that to do the shoulders.

The above fluid works really well to, plus you can wash it off your brush with water.
Cling film works wonders as well to mask stuff up

 

[PardonTheWait]

Another little batch done.

 

[Noxia]

Bit more on techy, did leather base, most metals, and some tubing.



Ignore the white, I try to brush the tamiya on and quickly realised that I will never use a brush to do white again if I can help it.

Speaking of, not really sure what to do with these flat white weapons. I have a brighter white I can use to edge highlight and I guess maybe I could just pinwash some of the recesses. I don't want to wash them all over because I quite like the cleanness.
Oh and I did the metal bits on termie and a subtle highlight as I don't really want super bright metal.

May do some weathering at some point too.