Apart from the fact that Vallejo are 18ml pots and Citadel are 12ml? 50% more for same price.
For stripping, try Fairy Power Spray. Smells slightly better than Dettol and hurts less if you don't wear gloves.
Tabletop Warhammer?
- Thread starter Arcimbaldo
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Apart from the fact that Vallejo are 18ml pots and Citadel are 12ml? 50% more for same price.
For stripping, try Fairy Power Spray. Smells slightly better than Dettol and hurts less if you don't wear gloves.
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Did not see the size difference ok Vallejo next time 
Did not see the size difference ok Vallejo next time
Vallejo also use dropper bottles which are easier to mix with by using written recipes and counting drops. They also do not dry out as the bottle is sealed and not open topped allowing air in.
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That's cool will Deffinitley look into them more 
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Nice one Voodoo, cheers.
Well Christmas has come and gone. I was lucky enough to receive an airbrush kit to try and speed up some painting and help with larger models. Have been looking at tutorials online and ordered a cleaning pot and brushes but could do with tips on use and what other bits to buy.
It is a basic kit really with compressor, 2 airbrushes and a secondary water trap but should be good to get me started. I have bought Vallejo surface primer and Tamiya acrylic thinner from a local shop to get started.
Also got my 3rd ForgeWorld Tau Broadside for more Railgun fun!
It is a basic kit really with compressor, 2 airbrushes and a secondary water trap but should be good to get me started. I have bought Vallejo surface primer and Tamiya acrylic thinner from a local shop to get started.
Also got my 3rd ForgeWorld Tau Broadside for more Railgun fun!
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Well I have just started building my Choas Army - I got Warp Talons off the missus (even though she doesnt want me to do it)
Built but not painted
Warp Talons
Possesed Marines
With 12 Cultists.
Still left to build
10 Marines
3 Bikes
1 Rino
Typhus HQ
Built but not painted
Warp Talons
Possesed Marines
With 12 Cultists.
Still left to build
10 Marines
3 Bikes
1 Rino
Typhus HQ
Last edited:
i was looking at forge world last night for my nids and was wondering wat the difference is cos the big modles look bad arse lol. also started my dark eldar and i am stuck on a colour theme any ideas to find some good examples. ?? thanks
Forgeworld do a lot of models that are both rare or not available via GW main site. They are "official" models however so can usually be used in standard games and tournaments.
The models are all resin with a similar texture to Finecast. They are produced under vacuum rather than spun cast so tend to have a better quality control than standard Finecast. All FW models are aimed at experienced modellers as they will require some straightening of parts, extensive clean-up of flash/mould lines and filling with putty etc.
The models are however much better sculpts in general than GW normal models and are my first port of call for new stuff when they make what I need.
Check out the difference between a GW Tau Broadside and FW one and you can clearly see why I have 3 FW ones and 0 GW ones.
The models are all resin with a similar texture to Finecast. They are produced under vacuum rather than spun cast so tend to have a better quality control than standard Finecast. All FW models are aimed at experienced modellers as they will require some straightening of parts, extensive clean-up of flash/mould lines and filling with putty etc.
The models are however much better sculpts in general than GW normal models and are my first port of call for new stuff when they make what I need.
Check out the difference between a GW Tau Broadside and FW one and you can clearly see why I have 3 FW ones and 0 GW ones.
Thread makes me sad 
I was a wargamer for all of my youth, albeit a little confused re armies with mix and match Imperial Guard, Marine, Harlequin armies and playing with friends and 'home rules'.
Went to Uni to find a roleplaying / wargaming club and quickly dug out my Imperial Guard.
3 years later I had amassed 3500 points of brand spanking new Cadian Imperial Guard. Gamed several times a week, entered several local and national competitions (with little success I must add!)
Proudest moment was taking part in British Universities National Competition and came 3rd in Best Painted Army.
Loved painting, 3500 points all painted, and based in urban themed camo and bases.
End came to Uni, knew I would not have any use for the army at home, so sold the lot to a friend for £300
Wish I still had it as it looked spectacular. Would look ace in a good cabinet.
I'm still doing a bit... After several years hankering for the hobby again I brought a shed load of Goblins from Ebay, just to paint up, but haven't rolled a dice in anger in about 5 years now.
I was a wargamer for all of my youth, albeit a little confused re armies with mix and match Imperial Guard, Marine, Harlequin armies and playing with friends and 'home rules'.
Went to Uni to find a roleplaying / wargaming club and quickly dug out my Imperial Guard.
3 years later I had amassed 3500 points of brand spanking new Cadian Imperial Guard. Gamed several times a week, entered several local and national competitions (with little success I must add!)
Proudest moment was taking part in British Universities National Competition and came 3rd in Best Painted Army.
Loved painting, 3500 points all painted, and based in urban themed camo and bases.
End came to Uni, knew I would not have any use for the army at home, so sold the lot to a friend for £300
Wish I still had it as it looked spectacular. Would look ace in a good cabinet.
I'm still doing a bit... After several years hankering for the hobby again I brought a shed load of Goblins from Ebay, just to paint up, but haven't rolled a dice in anger in about 5 years now.
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I was thinking about doing Word Bearers as my theme for my army but I have a couple of questions with regards to building my army. I am looking at getting a HQ - I really want Typhus but he is has the sign of the Nugle, do I have to paint my army to go with him? or can I have a set of plauge marines under his command?
If I cant go with him then how do I go about getting a HQ for the Word Bearers?
If I cant go with him then how do I go about getting a HQ for the Word Bearers?
Should be in the CSM book but I believe you can mix and match (I dont play Chaos). One issue you might have is that some Chaos factions have hatred to others.
I know a friend of mine is looking to host some Plague Marines as elites to allow the use of Forgeworld Blight Drones in his CSM list. He uses a custom paint theme so no particular Codex group.
I know a friend of mine is looking to host some Plague Marines as elites to allow the use of Forgeworld Blight Drones in his CSM list. He uses a custom paint theme so no particular Codex group.
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Yeah that is what I was thinking - I am in no rush atm as you can see from my list there are still a few things to do before I stick to a certain faction. He also has a special rule where he can have the cultists into zombies!
So i think its a good choice to have them as a separate squad to fight alongside the Word Bearers
So i think its a good choice to have them as a separate squad to fight alongside the Word Bearers
Word Bearers are dedicated to Chaos Undivided or some such title and so don't serve any particular faction (along with Alpha Legion, Iron Warriors, Sons of Horus and the Night Lords) so they can form or fight with any other faction. World Eaters wont tend to fight with Thousand Suns and Death Guard wont ally with Emperors Children as their respective factions hate each other. Of course in the event of a Black Crusade they all unite under a leader whoever he may be.
Hope that helps!
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Thats great thank you - Really I only want him to lead the plauge marines and also I might make some Zombies for him but thats in the future lol
Congrats on getting an airbrush. it should speed some things up massively
Some little things you'll want to get to go with it are:
Cotton buds (cheap ones) for cleaning.
Kitchen roll (for cleaning the needle and wiping the brush down).
Vallejo airbrush cleaning liquid (about £6 for a 200ml bottle that will last ages).
Liquid reamer for cleaning blockages (it's in a spray can, sometimes foaming sometimes not).
A small dish or something to put the nozzles in to soak whilst you clean the rest of the brush (the top of a spray can is good).
And a magnifying glass of some kind is handy to spot tiny blockages in the nozzel or a slightly damaged needle.
We thave a bit of packing foam we've cut a notch in, so when we're cleaning the brush or the brush is disassembled we can put the needle safely on the foam (it makes it obvious where it is, whilst also stopping it moving around).
Remember to drain the tank of the compressor after use if it's got one (there is usually a brass nut under the tank). otherwise you can end up with water collecting in the tank reducing it's capacity and potentially causing corrosion over time.
If you've not seen them, a guy on youtube (buypainted from memory) has some good run throughs on how he uses the airbrush for doing his models, and my brother has started experimenting with oil washes for speed on some models (you varnish the model, apply an oil wash and wipe off the excess, it's faster than normal washes and works really well for some items).
There are also "salt" techniques you can use with the airbrush to very quickly do chipped paint etc (from memory it's basically apply some salt grains between the base and top layers).
I've been slowly cleaning up my Skaven ready for assembly and undercoating when I've got more time, and am feeling a bit better (combination of Christmas and some bug means I've not had much time for models), I've currently got 40 Plague monks ready for assembly, 40 clan rats, I'm working on 40 Storm Vermin (bodies done, heads and arms etc need doing), and 10 Pink horrors.
I've also got a tub of 20mm warhammer bases I need to sit down with one evening to put magnets in them, the idea is the magnets let me use movement trays the models don't fall over in, even when they're on a hill (it should also let me hang the models upside down so washes flow into natural "dark areas" on clothing).
The pink horrors are likely to get a blatt of white undercoat with the airbrush, followed by one of the vallejot model air colours (I think there is a close match to tentacle pink), whilst the rats will be getting based with other coloured primers to give them both an undercoat, and the base colour for either fur or robes.
Things do speed up with it! I had a first go with Vallejo Black surface primer on the 60mm bases for the Broadsides. They are modelled with bits of slate ready for a winter look and it took all of 10 minutes to get used to using the airbrush and get a good coating on both. Normally with a brush it would be 10-15 mins each!
I am using Tamiya acrylic thinner as my local store did not have the Vallejo one or the cleaner but was told I can use the thinner as cleaner anyway due to alcohol content. Seemed to work ok last night.
I will be waiting to do anymore with it until my cleaning pot has arrived as much easier to spray out with that than into kitchen roll.
No tank on the compressor unfortunately but if needed I will buy one to attach in-line.
Do you find it is worth spraying distilled water through as a last step when cleaning or just leave the clear as last step?
I am using Tamiya acrylic thinner as my local store did not have the Vallejo one or the cleaner but was told I can use the thinner as cleaner anyway due to alcohol content. Seemed to work ok last night.
I will be waiting to do anymore with it until my cleaning pot has arrived as much easier to spray out with that than into kitchen roll.
No tank on the compressor unfortunately but if needed I will buy one to attach in-line.
Do you find it is worth spraying distilled water through as a last step when cleaning or just leave the clear as last step?