LauncherPro is awesome, and to expand on which bits are 'Touchwiz' (or at least non-stock android/samsung) you've got:
Launcher -- Replaced by LauncherPro personally
Contacts/Phone bits -- quite like these so see no reason to change
Calendar -- bit crappy with not 'seeing' all my calendars, but I use the launcherpro widget to view it and launch the 'add event' bit which works fine
Lock screen as well, more samsung than touchwiz I guess -- this I'm not a massive fan of, need to change it at some point but not looked for alternatives yet
Think that's it...
Oh, yeah, Screens, iirc the Atrix is using a Pentile screen to get the higher res, what about the other new phones like Sensation etc, they've got a bigger screen than the Atrix but are they Pentile or 'proper' screens?
Just ordered a couple of random sleeve style cases from amazon, will let you know what they're like when I get them, my main worry is that they're designed for thicker phones and don't provide a decent fit, they specified the phone but we'll see...