Soldato
Cars with uss will keep working as normal
for now, they've already disabled radar even on cars that have them, so...
Cars with uss will keep working as normal
Because they don’t ‘need’ it, I use ‘ because that’s Tesla’s view not mine.Why have they disabled radars?
Why have they disabled radars?
How close were they to the obstacle? I've noticed my sensors (69 plate) do overestimate the gap, like saying 6 inches when there's a foot or so. I guess it's better to air on the side of caution though, probably worried about being sued .Looks useful
Appears to be as reliable as the auto wipers & lights after the December update
Images from Tesla UK FB group - they hadn’t crashed and the obstacle in front of the car was straight.
I find the cameras the most useful when reversing as visibility in the model 3 out the back is really poor, made worse by a previous owner tinting the windows.My car with sensors will say ‘STOP’ when it’s at least 12” away (often more), from what ever it ‘sees’. I guess that’s intended behaviour so you can still open the boot and get to the frunk.
That said, I’ve never really found front parking sensors particularly useful. As above, they stowing to stop at least 12” from the object. For that reason, they are not actually that useful when parking in very tight spots. If you need sensors to tell you if the front of your car is within 12” of something else, it’s time to hand back your licence. I get the back, seeing out the back of modern cars is not the best.
Back to vision, the visual is not the best there… It’s not a total fail though, it identified the need to stop.
That said, the top of the fence wouldn’t be picked up by parking sensors so criticising vision for not doing something which sensors wouldn’t do is not exactly fair. I would presume, the vision system is calibrated to sweep the area that sensors would traditionally sweep so if something falls out of that area, I’m not surprised it went a bit wonky.
We could do with an outside shot to get some context as looking at the screen with a blurry background is not telling much of a story.
Meh. Edge case.Tesla doing a great job of spoiling the Model 3 and Y. Some owners still say the wipers aren’t a problem
That's a good point about causes. Mine has a hissy fit if I flick the wipers on when it's been raining but has since stopped as I assume a load of water runs infront of the camera and it freaks out.Occasionally if the bright sun is low and there are trees making it flicker on the screen enough that I myself feel blinded and need to use the sunshade or sunglasses, then it'll occasionally catch it out and start wiping a dry screen, other than that it's fairly rare for me too. I see it online all the time as well and generally think people are just fussy ****ers.
Not once in two years have I had a major hissy fit with it. I mean you extend your middle finger one inch and press the stalk and there's the options on the screen if you want them. It's neither difficult or a PITA however you look at it.
maybe Tesla vision has identified the sky cloud type, correlated theory with the weather radar and is cleaning windscreen proactively - top marks for neural nets. . michael fish effect.Tesla doing a great job of spoiling the Model 3 and Y. Some owners still say the wipers aren’t a problem
I get my charger installed at home on Thursday, I believe on Octopus EV Tariff or whatever it is called will cost me 0.10p P/KWH to charge it between the hours of 11:30pm to 5am or thereabouts. So the battery on the Model 3 is 75 KW approximately, so I believe it will be 75kw x 0.10p KWH i make that 0-100 for £7.50Apologies if this has been asked before but im finding very conflicting information online.
But on a standard home tariff, how much is it costing you roughly to charge your Tesla from a low percentage to 100%?
Cheers
It's not really that relevant how much it costs to charge from low % to 100%, you don't drive it down to empty and then charge it back up again like an ICE car. You'd just plug it in daily and replenish what you used while you sleep and you wake up with a full charge. The cost to run depends on how many miles you do and how hard you drive it.
You should be able to get roughly 4 miles per Kwh when driven inside legal limits in the real world. Ignore any range claims from any manufacturer, WLTP is not very real world. How much do you pay for your electricity? Divide that number by 4 and you have how much it costs to drive per mile.
It is usually well worth getting on an EV tariff, you can pay as little as 10p/kwh for EV charging overnight. OVO's tariff has no impact on your normal day rate but it only covers EV charging. Octopus' rate covers your whole house usage in the cheap period but it has a higher day rate.
OVO us usually better if you don't have solar or battery storage, Octopus is usually better if you do or can offset a lot of energy use into that cheap period.