The Tesla Thread

Why have they disabled radars?
Because they don’t ‘need’ it, I use ‘ because that’s Tesla’s view not mine.

In fairness my experience of both is that the vision only version is better (it’s not perfect) than the old radar version. There is still a vocal minority who protest the change and have an entrenched view that it’s worse but I just don’t see it in my own experience.

That said, the version of autopilot we have in the U.K. is ancient and bears little resemblance to what’s being deployed in the US at the moment.
 
Last edited:
Why have they disabled radars?

Their main reasoning for ditching the radar in favour of the cameras is the question of what does the software for self driving do if the radar is telling it one thing and the cameras are saying the opposite.
Which sensor input does the software listen to...
They could have left the radar enabled on cars with it but then they'd pull the excuse of having to maintain a radar enabled software branch.
Ironically I believe HW4 is reintroducing some sort of radar but its unclear what it'll be for.

Its a fairly valid point but personally I'd have said the radar is more reliable, it can see things that an optical camera can't and doesn't care about light levels or rain. Its only really snow and ice that can block radar and that'll block cameras as well.


As for whats better in general....I get phantom braking on vision only, I don't really recall the car panicing at the sight of an HGV in lane 1 on a slight right hand curve while you are in lane 2 when it had radar but its annoying common on vision since it seems to have the idea the HGV is in your lane (because of the angle with the curve) and jumps on the brakes.
In a clear sunny day the autopilot cruise control is mostly fine although a bit inconsistant about how soon its going to slow down for queuing traffic, sometimes its sensible and slows gently and early but most of the time it leaves it a bit late and brakes heavily.

Generally speaking I feel the Tesla on autopilot is a nervous driver while my old Octavia's ACC could be entirely trusted to not do anything stupid. I feel like I've gotta watch the Tesla like a hawk when its on cruise control which partly defeats the point in driver assistance tech, its supposed to make it less stressful....
 
Last edited:
New toys Incoming!!!

KKOC8Ff.jpg

Looks useful :cry:
Appears to be as reliable as the auto wipers & lights after the December update :p

Images from Tesla UK FB group - they hadn’t crashed and the obstacle in front of the car was straight.

52780655281_226aa98b60_c.jpg
52780905959_88594175e2_c.jpg
 
Last edited:
Looks useful :cry:
Appears to be as reliable as the auto wipers & lights after the December update :p

Images from Tesla UK FB group - they hadn’t crashed and the obstacle in front of the car was straight.

52780655281_226aa98b60_c.jpg
52780905959_88594175e2_c.jpg
How close were they to the obstacle? I've noticed my sensors (69 plate) do overestimate the gap, like saying 6 inches when there's a foot or so. I guess it's better to air on the side of caution though, probably worried about being sued :rolleyes: .
 
My car with sensors will say ‘STOP’ when it’s at least 12” away (often more), from what ever it ‘sees’. I guess that’s intended behaviour so you can still open the boot and get to the frunk.

That said, I’ve never really found front parking sensors particularly useful. As above, they stowing to stop at least 12” from the object. For that reason, they are not actually that useful when parking in very tight spots. If you need sensors to tell you if the front of your car is within 12” of something else, it’s time to hand back your licence. I get the back, seeing out the back of modern cars is not the best.

Back to vision, the visual is not the best there… It’s not a total fail though, it identified the need to stop.

That said, the top of the fence wouldn’t be picked up by parking sensors so criticising vision for not doing something which sensors wouldn’t do is not exactly fair. I would presume, the vision system is calibrated to sweep the area that sensors would traditionally sweep so if something falls out of that area, I’m not surprised it went a bit wonky.

We could do with an outside shot to get some context as looking at the screen with a blurry background is not telling much of a story.
 
My car with sensors will say ‘STOP’ when it’s at least 12” away (often more), from what ever it ‘sees’. I guess that’s intended behaviour so you can still open the boot and get to the frunk.

That said, I’ve never really found front parking sensors particularly useful. As above, they stowing to stop at least 12” from the object. For that reason, they are not actually that useful when parking in very tight spots. If you need sensors to tell you if the front of your car is within 12” of something else, it’s time to hand back your licence. I get the back, seeing out the back of modern cars is not the best.

Back to vision, the visual is not the best there… It’s not a total fail though, it identified the need to stop.

That said, the top of the fence wouldn’t be picked up by parking sensors so criticising vision for not doing something which sensors wouldn’t do is not exactly fair. I would presume, the vision system is calibrated to sweep the area that sensors would traditionally sweep so if something falls out of that area, I’m not surprised it went a bit wonky.

We could do with an outside shot to get some context as looking at the screen with a blurry background is not telling much of a story.
I find the cameras the most useful when reversing as visibility in the model 3 out the back is really poor, made worse by a previous owner tinting the windows.
 
Last edited:
I know a few people complain about this a lot but it doesn’t really affect me. It’s odd that Tesla basically sell 1 spec of car but people experience of this stuff can be very different.

The car does a very occasional dry wipe but a quick squirt of the washer jets and it doesn’t do it again. There may well have just been something on the screen.

It’s more likely to happen in winter because of the salt spray so you do have to use the washer jets regularly if you like to tail gate the car in front. If you don’t clear it, the camera will see the salt as rain and try to wipe it away and turn your windscreen into a blurry mess!
 
Occasionally if the bright sun is low and there are trees making it flicker on the screen enough that I myself feel blinded and need to use the sunshade or sunglasses, then it'll occasionally catch it out and start wiping a dry screen, other than that it's fairly rare for me too. I see it online all the time as well and generally think people are just fussy ****ers.
Not once in two years have I had a major hissy fit with it. I mean you extend your middle finger one inch and press the stalk and there's the options on the screen if you want them. It's neither difficult or a PITA however you look at it.
 
Occasionally if the bright sun is low and there are trees making it flicker on the screen enough that I myself feel blinded and need to use the sunshade or sunglasses, then it'll occasionally catch it out and start wiping a dry screen, other than that it's fairly rare for me too. I see it online all the time as well and generally think people are just fussy ****ers.
Not once in two years have I had a major hissy fit with it. I mean you extend your middle finger one inch and press the stalk and there's the options on the screen if you want them. It's neither difficult or a PITA however you look at it.
That's a good point about causes. Mine has a hissy fit if I flick the wipers on when it's been raining but has since stopped as I assume a load of water runs infront of the camera and it freaks out.
 
Tesla doing a great job of spoiling the Model 3 and Y. Some owners still say the wipers aren’t a problem
maybe Tesla vision has identified the sky cloud type, correlated theory with the weather radar and is cleaning windscreen proactively - top marks for neural nets. . michael fish effect.
 
My Model S sometimes dry wipes the screen when I get to a specific point of my driveway if it's sunny... otherwise the wipers behave themselves pretty well.
 
Last edited:
Apologies if this has been asked before but im finding very conflicting information online.

But on a standard home tariff, how much is it costing you roughly to charge your Tesla from a low percentage to 100%?

Cheers
 
Apologies if this has been asked before but im finding very conflicting information online.

But on a standard home tariff, how much is it costing you roughly to charge your Tesla from a low percentage to 100%?

Cheers
I get my charger installed at home on Thursday, I believe on Octopus EV Tariff or whatever it is called will cost me 0.10p P/KWH to charge it between the hours of 11:30pm to 5am or thereabouts. So the battery on the Model 3 is 75 KW approximately, so I believe it will be 75kw x 0.10p KWH i make that 0-100 for £7.50

That to me is a bargain!!! I'm sure that is not 100% correct but it won't be far off! I have had a few beers now :)
 
Last edited:
It's not really that relevant how much it costs to charge from low % to 100%, you don't drive it down to empty and then charge it back up again like an ICE car. You'd just plug it in daily and replenish what you used while you sleep and you wake up with a full charge. The cost to run depends on how many miles you do and how hard you drive it.

You should be able to get roughly 4 miles per Kwh when driven inside legal limits in the real world. Ignore any range claims from any manufacturer, WLTP is not very real world. How much do you pay for your electricity? Divide that number by 4 and you have how much it costs to drive per mile.

It is usually well worth getting on an EV tariff, you can pay as little as 10p/kwh for EV charging overnight. OVO's tariff has no impact on your normal day rate but it only covers EV charging. Octopus' rate covers your whole house usage in the cheap period but it has a higher day rate.

OVO us usually better if you don't have solar or battery storage, Octopus is usually better if you do or can offset a lot of energy use into that cheap period.
 
It's not really that relevant how much it costs to charge from low % to 100%, you don't drive it down to empty and then charge it back up again like an ICE car. You'd just plug it in daily and replenish what you used while you sleep and you wake up with a full charge. The cost to run depends on how many miles you do and how hard you drive it.

You should be able to get roughly 4 miles per Kwh when driven inside legal limits in the real world. Ignore any range claims from any manufacturer, WLTP is not very real world. How much do you pay for your electricity? Divide that number by 4 and you have how much it costs to drive per mile.

It is usually well worth getting on an EV tariff, you can pay as little as 10p/kwh for EV charging overnight. OVO's tariff has no impact on your normal day rate but it only covers EV charging. Octopus' rate covers your whole house usage in the cheap period but it has a higher day rate.

OVO us usually better if you don't have solar or battery storage, Octopus is usually better if you do or can offset a lot of energy use into that cheap period.

I get what you're saying about it not being relevant. But for the sake of budgeting and working out worst case scenario costs, it helps give you a better idea.
 
The easiest way to budget is to take your annual milage figure and calculate the cars energy costs as 90% at home charging and 10% public at some ludicrous rate, say 75p/kwh. Tesla superchargers are a lot cheaper than that, between 40p and 55p but you'll not always be on one of those.

If you drive the car at all you are better going on OVO's tariff at 10p/kwh for EV charging at home.

Two worked examples:
Price cap = 9000 miles @ 34p = £765 + 1000 miles @ 75p = £187.50. Total = £952.50
OVO= 9000 miles @ 10p = £225 + 1000 miles @ 75p = £187.50. Total = £412.5

Just amend those numbers accordingly depending no your estimated home / public split, I do slightly more public charging but not much more these days.
 
Back
Top Bottom