***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0

[UKDTweak]

There are revisions of the DNA40, the latest version has atty lock so you can force the mod to always hold the resting resistance once you get it to room temp, so it wont jump around, but you cannot update the firmware on Any DNA40 chip.
As for NI200 wire, it is a pain to work with, softer and easier to squish and ruin while you build or wick, you can build micro coils, some do, but spaced is easier as you dont have to dry fire and pinch which is when you can crush the coils very easily and ruin them.
Wrapping on the Kuro or CoilMaster coilers is easy, just have to be more gentle than you would be with Kanthal.

However, you can use Titanium Grade 1 wire, it works very well on the DNA40 and is as easy and tough as Kanthal, you just have to use lower temp limits, for example, NI200 at over 200c can burn cotton, Titanium will burn cotton on the DNA40 from over 175c..

That HCigar mod is not bad, but may not have the latest DNA40 chip in it as they came out Before the latest chip was released. The screen is dark and can be hard to see in sunlight.
And for that price, look for the Vaporshark S Body Micro... its like a Coupor Mini but with a Genuine Evolv DNA40 and the latest revision of the chip, far smaller and not Chinese made.

http://www.vaporshark.com/sbody-macro-products

 

[pgi947]

Any particular reason for wanting a DNA40 mod? Something like the D2 is half the cost, does what the DNA40 can do and more - higher power and native titanium.

 

[Twirlywoos]

No firmware updates on the DNA40 unfortunately.

There's two versions and I think everything uses the "big screen" version now.

I hate working with nickel with a passion, and the coils have to be spaced (Macro coils)

There are revisions of the DNA40, the latest version has atty lock so you can force the mod to always hold the resting resistance once you get it to room temp, so it wont jump around, but you cannot update the firmware on Any DNA40 chip.
As for NI200 wire, it is a pain to work with, softer and easier to squish and ruin while you build or wick, you can build micro coils, some do, but spaced is easier as you dont have to dry fire and pinch which is when you can crush the coils very easily and ruin them.
Wrapping on the Kuro or CoilMaster coilers is easy, just have to be more gentle than you would be with Kanthal.

However, you can use Titanium Grade 1 wire, it works very well on the DNA40 and is as easy and tough as Kanthal, you just have to use lower temp limits, for example, NI200 at over 200c can burn cotton, Titanium will burn cotton on the DNA40 from over 175c..

That HCigar mod is not bad, but may not have the latest DNA40 chip in it as they came out Before the latest chip was released. The screen is dark and can be hard to see in sunlight.
And for that price, look for the Vaporshark S Body Micro... its like a Coupor Mini but with a Genuine Evolv DNA40 and the latest revision of the chip, far smaller and not Chinese made.

http://www.vaporshark.com/sbody-macro-products

Thanks guys

Any particular reason for wanting a DNA40 mod? Something like the D2 is half the cost, does what the DNA40 can do and more - higher power and native titanium.

Well I don't need to stick with evolve, but after researching a bit I just bought the evic 60 Watt tc mini in white and a velocity styled rda in black. Just want to try out temp control and I think it will best work with a dripper hence why I chose that combination. The Evic looked better than the IPV D2 imo and was cheaper too. For £32 all in through gearbest I think it's great value.

 

[slinxy]

Thanks guys



Well I don't need to stick with evolve, but after researching a bit I just bought the evic 60 Watt tc mini in white and a velocity styled rda in black. Just want to try out temp control and I think it will best work with a dripper hence why I chose that combination. The Evic looked better than the IPV D2 imo and was cheaper too. For £32 all in through gearbest I think it's great value.

IMHO.. The DNA40 chips are just bad, I've tried two different versions, and yet cba to get another mod with the "gold" version of the chip, which is the latest.

The evic chip in the evic vt and mini, does work well in temp mode, it seems to vape cooler than both the yihi and the Evolv (if and when working) chip. I have the full size evic, and once I got the 510 working, it's been fine. I've heard nothing but good things about it he mini.

But it does work differently from the others in the terms that you fix your power and adjust temperature rather than the other way.

The D2 is a great mod, fits and shape perfect for my hands.. I'm looking for a second one but in silver. The other two let downs for me is the non standard charge port and not having step down; but I would like to see it on a scope, cos I can definitely detect a change in power when the device is turn down.

Another mod worth considering is the sig 75w.

But DNA devices are silly cheap now considering I brought my shark for £170 pounds vs the £100 pounds it is new now. Lol

 

[Hamster]

IMHO.. The DNA40 chips are just bad, I've tried two different versions, and yet cba to get another mod with the "gold" version of the chip, which is the latest.

The evic chip in the evic vt and mini, does work well in temp mode, it seems to vape cooler than both the yihi and the Evolv (if and when working) chip. I have the full size evic, and once I got the 510 working, it's been fine. I've heard nothing but good things about it he mini.

But it does work differently from the others in the terms that you fix your power and adjust temperature rather than the other way.

The D2 is a great mod, fits and shape perfect for my hands.. I'm looking for a second one but in silver. The other two let downs for me is the non standard charge port and not having step down; but I would like to see it on a scope, cos I can definitely detect a change in power when the device is turn down.

Another mod worth considering is the sig 75w.

But DNA devices are silly cheap now considering I brought my shark for £170 pounds vs the £100 pounds it is new now. Lol

Pretty fair appraisal of some temp mods there

I've got an Hcigar VT40 with v5 DNA40 board and have had zero issues with it. Not sure if it's 'gold' but it's been very well behaved so far.

With you on the D2. I've got small hands and it's perfect for me in that regard. It's also a cracking little mod. Unlike you, i couldn't wait for the silver so i bought myself another black one The new one (from Gearbest UK warehouse) has v3 firmware but the only difference i've noticed is that it constantly displays the resistance when it's initialised whereas the v2 firmware showed the resistance change as the mod's fired and the temperature of the coil increases.

I too wish it had a micro usb rather than barrel connector; it really doesn't help that they included such a short cable, making it difficult to use as passthrough if desperate but they only charge at around 0.7A which a generic usb extension cable can handle without problem. Also it's a slippery little sod so the silicone sleeve is needed which makes manually changing cell a faff.

Lack of step down isn't ideal but not such a biggie for me as I'm using them in temp mode but if using kanthal can just build a coil in suitable range resistance.

It really is a good time for small temp control/limiting mods! I may well get the evic mini too but will hold out for some more in-depth reviews!

 

[UKDTweak]

I have several DNA40's, from the very first release chip to the latest large screen which is Not the Gold, the Gold chip was released Just before the first Large Screen version and the latest version is large screen And has Atty lock.
The only one that gave me any trouble was the VaporFlask, the screen would glitch every 24 hours or so running in temp mode, all my other DNA40's have been flawless, ironic as the Flask was the only one I did not build myself... the lack of Titanium support is a none issue, ive been using TI wire on all my DNA40's without a single problem, just have to use a slightly lower temp of 175c instead of 200c for NI200.

The DNA40's only problem is its price and lower power compared to all the China mods now taking over, such as the IPV's and such, which do offer better value for money, but some china mods just don't work right or regulate the same and thus don't vap as smooth as the DNA chips do, some downright don't work in temp mode such and the M80 and Penny.

But if your wanting to try Temp control, you are better off getting a none DNA based chip mod as they are much cheaper, so if you find you don't like temp control, its not such a loss... as temp control is not to everyones liking as you don't get as warm a vap as you would with kanthal and wrapping NI200 coils sucks, Titanium though is much easier to work with, ive yet to try SS wire.

 

[Frozennova]

Ive got some 317L here that I possibly try later.

Will throw a couple of coils in a Velocity

 

[ICEx21]

https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sour...1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=clapton coils for sale uk

Thanks I did the same but I was hoping someone could have recommended a specific site or company they've used before.
I've not used many of those sites before so don't know if they're reliable or not.

 

[slinxy]

The best way I found to work a dna40 in temp mode, is to fire the coil for a second or two.. so it heats up the coil and rises the ohm slightly

unscrew the atty, fire the mod a few times so it knows the atty isn't on the device, then screw it back down ant select new coil. this way the mod locks the ohm of the atty to a higher than should be resistance.

If you leave your mod long enough for the coil to cool down, you have to repeat the process.

Yes I know this aint the right way to do it, but it's the only way I can get a decent vape from a coil set at 420 degrees.

It's funny how the dna40 is considered to be the chip for more expensive mods, while the bare bone chip yihi chip like the sx350 is more customizable and is more expensive to buy, let a lone the sx 350j. The tides are turning; a lot of the high end world are releasing mods based on the yihi chips now, and I have my eye on the hellfire one.

 

[Wazz-1]

I have the latest DNA40 in the xvostick, small screen and atty lock.
Works flawlessly, using Ti wire with reduced temps. Fantastic, between that and a couple of mechs I have no need for anything else.
Did I mention how good the Xvostick is paired with Merkava, a fantastic little mod and atty combo
It really is very good
Vaping home brewed Ginger biccies and a touch of custard Mmmmm.



Edit : Did I say how good the Xvostick is...

 

[Wazz-1]

Snip,
I have my eye on the hellfire one.

I'm sure it will be a fantastic mod but...
Have you won the lottery?

 

[NVP]

The power you apply in TC mode controls how quickly you get to your set temperature. I tend to set the mod to max W or J and just adjust the temperature to taste. What is the mod you are using?

For a temp setting I find that it varies massively depending on the atty, coil, and juice. Start at 180C and work up from there. Some of my stuff is best at 230C and other stuff is best at 170C.

Just using an iStick TC40W with the Tritons ni200 0.15 coil. Thanks for the advice, I will give it a try once this current non TC coil gives up

 

[pgi947]

The cthulhu v2 has redeemed itself, now got the dual coil deck in, wicking great using the same method I use on the single coil, better airflow on the dual deck. Stuck the pre made coils in that came with it (was feeling lazy), came out at 0.38ohm, currently got it at 38w, the clouds produced are so dense and large, flavour still isn't quite aromamizer standard but certainly nicer then subtank rba.

Vapor depot have also suggested slackening the positive retention **** under the deck to reposition the wonky positive post.

I'd still advise waiting until all of the production kinks have been worked out before buying, but when it does work, what a tank.

 

[UKDTweak]

Just remember that the flash point of cotton is 200c and above, so if you set your temp over 200c or your resting resistance is not properly set, you can still get dry or burnt hits... the type of juice and how well it wicks can affect this too, like Wazz says, depends on the juice. Wicking has a part to play in it too..

 

[NVP]

In TC mode it says I can lock the resistance, why would I want to do this?

 

[pgi947]

It gives the mod a base line to do temp calculations from.

 

[UKDTweak]

When you first put a temp control coil on a mod, the mod will read the resistance, in order for temp control to work properly, both the mod and coil need to be at the same room temp, this is so the chip has a baseline resistance to work from as it uses the changes in the coils resistance as it heats up, to determine the temp, if the base reading is off, your temp readings will be off and temp control will not work properly and you might get a burnt hit, the atty or res lock, is mainly to ensure that the baseline does not change, for example, if you used the mod and took a few puffs, then took off the atty to re fill the tank, then screwed it back on, the mod may re read the resistance and wrongly assume its the new baseline and thus bugger your temp control, the lock ensures this does not happen, it is also helpful if you have an unstable atty, as some can cause readings to fluctuate, or if your coils are not secured properly etc...

 

[NVP]

Ah thanks for that, really helpful So I should make sure to lock the resistance first thing on each new coil.

Cheers

 

[Rilot]

In TC mode it says I can lock the resistance, why would I want to do this?

On the iSticks it works in a different way. It reads the resistance when you attach an atty but the resistance lock stops it from re-measuring it again until you unlock. This should prevent drift but the iSticks don't seem to handle it all that well.

If you're using an iStick you have no choice but to run at the max W as that is all it will let you do. The display changes to adjusting the temperature when you are in TC mode.

You want to enter TC mode before you attach you TC coil by the way (hold down the middle button of the three).

 

[NVP]

Thanks Rilot. I'm trying to see if there is a way to change it from F to C - no biggy but just curious.

Will the iStick be sufficient or should I upgrade to something beastly?