Type R and VTEC owners
- Thread starter ChrisD.
- Start date
Bit high Buckster, one sec.
EDIT - Here we go > http://www.ti-motorsport.co.uk/price-list-honda.php . Based in Staffordshire, might be handy for you then rjkoneill. Not a fun job to try and do on the EP3 from what I gather, as you need to drop the subframe out. Then once it's all back together get it all checked up geo wise
EDIT - Here we go > http://www.ti-motorsport.co.uk/price-list-honda.php . Based in Staffordshire, might be handy for you then rjkoneill. Not a fun job to try and do on the EP3 from what I gather, as you need to drop the subframe out. Then once it's all back together get it all checked up geo wise
Last edited:
This +eleventy.
A good place shouldn't charge you additional labour for putting a lightened flywheel in, TGM didn't for me.
Oh and if you want to do it properly get a one piece chromoly one from the likes of 'Competition Clutch'.
3.4kg of goodness
Bit high Buckster, one sec.
EDIT - Here we go > http://www.ti-motorsport.co.uk/price-list-honda.php . Based in Staffordshire, might be handy for you then rjkoneill. Not a fun job to try and do on the EP3 from what I gather, as you need to drop the subframe out. Then once it's all back together get it all checked up geo wise
Yeah if front subframe is dropped, GEO will go out, so will need re-doing on front.
Man of Honour
- Joined
- 13 Nov 2009
- Posts
- 11,674
- Location
- Northampton
Excuse the stupidity but surely the rev limiter would save you from any major damage, maybe valve bounce at worst
Don't miss shift then
Lightweight flywheel is a fantastic mod. Very free revving and in traffic all you have to do is let off the throttle and the car essentially brakes itself down to a near stop
Lightened flywheel should make no difference over stock on a missed shift IMO Janesy B.
Where did you work that out?
A lighter flywheel will have less twist/effect on the crankshaft should you miss shift. So how will it force the pistons into instadeath? If anything, the stock heavy flywheel should do more damage
Where did you work that out?
A lighter flywheel will have less twist/effect on the crankshaft should you miss shift. So how will it force the pistons into instadeath? If anything, the stock heavy flywheel should do more damage
Man of Honour
- Joined
- 13 Nov 2009
- Posts
- 11,674
- Location
- Northampton
Lightened flywheel should make no difference over stock on a missed shift IMO Janesy B.
Where did you work that out?
A lighter flywheel will have less twist/effect on the crankshaft should you miss shift. So how will it force the pistons into instadeath? If anything, the stock heavy flywheel should do more damage
Another good point, a lighter flywheel would although rev up quicker also return to idle quicker so would spend less time in dangerous rpms
I paid about 575 from honda, i think its a good 3-4 hours labour
Lightened flywheel should make no difference over stock on a missed shift IMO Janesy B.
Where did you work that out?
A lighter flywheel will have less twist/effect on the crankshaft should you miss shift. So how will it force the pistons into instadeath? If anything, the stock heavy flywheel should do more damage
Pretty simple really, heavier flywheel makes it more resistant to speed up or slow down rpm. I guess the extra time it takes for the rpm to rise could give you more time to dip the clutch again instead of instant over rev.
Frankly I don't think it would make much of a difference in reality. Besides, how often do you buzz your engine anyway?
Rjk, try simautoparts and Hendy performance for oem clutch.
Actually, probably the same price as tegiwa. I had an exedy fitted from tegiwa with a fidanza flywheel. Doesn't feel any tougher to drive (it can with some engines iirc)
Great mod! Seems to accelerate quicker through the gears
Actually, probably the same price as tegiwa. I had an exedy fitted from tegiwa with a fidanza flywheel. Doesn't feel any tougher to drive (it can with some engines iirc)
Great mod! Seems to accelerate quicker through the gears
I got bored yesterday so I decided to give my knob a bit of a polish I used this thread from TRO: http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?22227-polish-your-knob
I don't have any pictures from the beginning, but it looked similar to this one:
Results at below:
To try and protect the finish, I've given it a few coats of laquer too. Once it has had a chance to cure, I'll give it a going over with some 2000-grit and rubbing compound to smooth off the orange peel.
Pretty pleased with the result for around an hours work.
I used this thread from TRO: http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?22227-polish-your-knobI don't have any pictures from the beginning, but it looked similar to this one:
Results at below:
To try and protect the finish, I've given it a few coats of laquer too. Once it has had a chance to cure, I'll give it a going over with some 2000-grit and rubbing compound to smooth off the orange peel.
Pretty pleased with the result for around an hours work.
So Vtecererers, I'm considering changing my FK3 around Jan/Feb time once the new house has been purchased and i'm allowed to spend some money again. Have really enjoyed my diseasel as a car overall so am considering either an EP3 and a runaround for the boss, or an FN2 as our only car.
For those who have owned both what would you prefer?
I've driven plenty of vtec's from prelude to integra to Accord R to Ep3 and I like the delivery so that side of things is covered. Would buy an EP3 outright probably at circa £4k but would then (likely) have to finance something for the Mrs, alternative is to drop in the region of £8/9k on an FN2 with about half of that financed / personal Loan
If going the FN2 option in order to appease my better half she would want the same spec as my current EX, this would mean a bit of waiting around but I'd have the time to wait I guess. Only thing I don't expect to be able to get is the HID's as I doubt i'd be getting a good facelift for my money.
For those who have owned both what would you prefer?
I've driven plenty of vtec's from prelude to integra to Accord R to Ep3 and I like the delivery so that side of things is covered. Would buy an EP3 outright probably at circa £4k but would then (likely) have to finance something for the Mrs, alternative is to drop in the region of £8/9k on an FN2 with about half of that financed / personal Loan
If going the FN2 option in order to appease my better half she would want the same spec as my current EX, this would mean a bit of waiting around but I'd have the time to wait I guess. Only thing I don't expect to be able to get is the HID's as I doubt i'd be getting a good facelift for my money.
Last edited:
I'd personally keep the FK3 until you can afford to 'upgrade' without the need for finance, is there anything wrong with keeping it another year?
If you go the finance route, do it proper with a FD2
the 5 doors will make it seem like a sensible decision for the boss too
If you go the finance route, do it proper with a FD2
the 5 doors will make it seem like a sensible decision for the boss too Good drive back from Wales this morning. Despite the rain it was still quick, impressed with the amount of grip from the F1AS2s. Even around tight roundabouts you can pin it in second with no issues.
The tyres are still a little soft in the dry though but it's hard which to optimise for. Also need to check alignment still as the front seems to scrub on entry when you come back on the power, also seems a little unstable in the wet. It's tricky to get right on the bends though due to the passive rear steering. The front inside edges are wearing though which points to toe maybe being knocked out, 1deg of front camber shouldn't cause this much difference.
Still a very quick car though even without ABS (dodgy wheel sensor) or traction control
The tyres are still a little soft in the dry though but it's hard which to optimise for. Also need to check alignment still as the front seems to scrub on entry when you come back on the power, also seems a little unstable in the wet. It's tricky to get right on the bends though due to the passive rear steering. The front inside edges are wearing though which points to toe maybe being knocked out, 1deg of front camber shouldn't cause this much difference.
Still a very quick car though even without ABS (dodgy wheel sensor) or traction control