What have you done to your car today?

BMW 120d e82 coup . Rear pads I'm trying to change..

Iv used this tool for a few years and used to do pads when I had time. but I think the last time the rears were done were in a garage. Do they locktite the pins ? I always put a bit of copper slip on even though people tell you shouldnt.. don't bloody locktite these things if they have they are a pain to get off

Tbh, it's not the best tool anyway, but would suffice to do pins that have been torqued correctly. A hex socket is far more robust and easy to get some good torque on. RE: a garage doing the rears last time - i thought this might be the case. Like every garage they have no idea what things should be torqued up to, so just do it as tight as they can. I think the pins are only meant to be around 30NM from what I remember which is really not a lot. I'd bet good money that with the hex socket, and a 3/8 spanner with a cheater bar, or a couple of blows on the spanner with a hammer and they'll come loose no problem. I'd avoid heat and plusgas - I'm sure it won't need anything like that and you'll end up causing more harm than good. Just get the right tool for the job and it'll come off no problem.

Don't copper slip any threads - you'll overtorque the bolts. They won't have rusted, they will have been overtorqued by the last garage. I took off the ones from my mum's F10 which hasn't had new brakes since factory (11 years ago/80k miles) and there was not a spot of rust on the pins or threads.

Why is it so difficult to get an indie to swap the reluctor rings on my drive shaft on the rear

I want the ABS relutctor rings changed, i will supply the rings, the ABS sensors and the wheel hub nuts


They are insisting i replace the entire drive shafts

This is not what i want !

My local indie (just a standard no frills mechanics garage down the road from me) knew all about them when I went to have mine done and said he even keeps the rings on the shelf for when he gets them in. It's not a difficult job as long as you can get the driveshaft out of the wheel hub (mines a 130i so doesn't have the reluctor rings as the ABS ring is built into the wheel bearing and is an absolute PITA job). Takes a mechanic maybe 1.5 hours per side at most. This isn't something you should have to be travelling 70 miles for at all - just call a bunch of garages on your local industrial estate. If they've been around more than 5 minutes - they will have done this job numerous times on E9x and E8x cars
 
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I got to say though, the BMW discs are quality items, I'm really impressed how they don't rust after so many years. I wonder who makes the OEM parts for BMW, well... bit of Googling should tell me. :D

VNE (French brand) make quite a few of the BMW brake discs, and on the newer cars with the M Sport brakes/2 piece discs I believe Brembo make these
 
Tbh, it's not the best tool anyway, but would suffice to do pins that have been torqued correctly. A hex socket is far more robust and easy to get some good torque on. RE: a garage doing the rears last time - i thought this might be the case. Like every garage they have no idea what things should be torqued up to, so just do it as tight as they can. I think the pins are only meant to be around 30NM from what I remember which is really not a lot. I'd bet good money that with the hex socket, and a 3/8 spanner with a cheater bar, or a couple of blows on the spanner with a hammer and they'll come loose no problem. I'd avoid heat and plusgas - I'm sure it won't need anything like that and you'll end up causing more harm than good. Just get the right tool for the job and it'll come off no problem.

Don't copper slip any threads - you'll overtorque the bolts. They won't have rusted, they will have been overtorqued by the last garage. I took off the ones from my mum's F10 which hasn't had new brakes since factory (11 years ago/80k miles) and there was not a spot of rust on the pins or threads.



My local indie (just a standard no frills mechanics garage down the road from me) knew all about them when I went to have mine done and said he even keeps the rings on the shelf for when he gets them in. It's not a difficult job as long as you can get the driveshaft out of the wheel hub (mines a 130i so doesn't have the reluctor rings as the ABS ring is built into the wheel bearing and is an absolute PITA job). Takes a mechanic maybe 1.5 hours per side at most. This isn't something you should have to be travelling 70 miles for at all - just call a bunch of garages on your local industrial estate. If they've been around more than 5 minutes - they will have done this job numerous times on E9x and E8x cars



Most of the indies are quoting around £250-280 to do the ABS rings locally, if i was to get the brakes done locally thats going to be an extra £70-90 easily. So say £320 potential cost locally , most wont touch it without paying £60-90 for their diagnostics only , when i can travel 70 miles and get checks done on INPA, and the the rings done. Also have the rear pads and brake discs swapped for what seems to be about £140-£160 odd, if he does a good job ill round it up a bit higher.
 
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Why is it so difficult to get an indie to swap the reluctor rings on my drive shaft on the rear

I want the ABS relutctor rings changed, i will supply the rings, the ABS sensors and the wheel hub nuts


They are insisting i replace the entire drive shafts

This is not what i want !

I had a similar issue replacing the bearing in a hub. Ended up taking the hub to an engineering company, they only charged me £25.
 
Not technically something I did to my car, but today I built a shed, and shelving, and put a load of my stuff in it.
I've never had a shed before... (stop it...!)
Genuine game changer. :p

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A pretty big no really - I had my doubts going in :s end result looks a bit more silver than the photo for some reason but still not good.

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(I didn't care too much about overspray as the intention was to change the tyres once done)

Originally diamond cut with two shades of silver as well and appear to have been previously been touched up badly which has made the whole thing worse along with uncooperative weather and a bad can of spray paint.

They needed much more sanding down than I gave them as well - really they need sandblasting and properly redone but the cost of that isn't so far off just buying a new set so not really worth it - so I've just ordered a new set and gonna keep these at the back of the shed for an emergency/dirty work where they don't matter.


It doesn't look too bad to me, guessing this is without clearcoat? Try a few coats of clear, that will help how it looks quite a lot.
 
It doesn't look too bad to me, guessing this is without clearcoat? Try a few coats of clear, that will help how it looks quite a lot.

It is clear coated - it has come up quite a bit better since the photo once cured (that was like an hour after) but the consistency doesn't look good closer up including the clear coat where it is smooth in places but rough in others. The only way to fix it really is to either spend like a day plus on each one sanding and/or sandblasting them and they still look naff compared to the original look.
 
Picked up an 'old banger' a month ago for workhorse duties and put it straight into service. Haven't even had chance to post it on here before the local yoofs made their mark on it... literally

Bonus points if you can guess the car...
Laguna MK3 estate :cool: genuinely thought I was the only foolish person to own a Laguna this forum! :p I've got a 2008 Laguna Dynamique S 2.0 16V as my dad car/work horse. Very much a love/hate relationship as it's always causing me grief, usually at MOT time too. Had mine 4 and a bit years and it has been off the road for probably 8-9 months of that period for various and often expensive reasons. I also have a Renaultsport Megane 275 as my toy so I've used that when the Laguna has been broken :o

Sorry to see this happen anyway, don't see many Laguna around these days (the rarity factor is part of the reason I'm still keeping mine going for now). Probably best just buying a replacement door rather than paying for this to be repaired?

Would love to see more pictures of yours, spec etc. Looking at the alloys I suspect you've got a GT? This is mine after a recent wash after getting it back on the road again.

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How much oil do those cars of yours burn?!

Not a drop thankfully! :p

From right to left its unused Toyota pink coolant, almost empty Suzuki blue coolant, Prestone universal coolant, almost empty HX7 10W40 (E30), a bit of Helix Ultra 5W40 left over from something else, Jizer, Evaporust, a bunch of small bottles of gearbox oil ATF, brake fluid, leftover Fuchs Titan Race Pro S, and then the 15W50 Motul 2100 is for the next two services of the E30. :)
 
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Laguna MK3 estate :cool:

God damn it! :eek: :D I didn't expect anyone to actually get it, nevermind narrowing it down to pretty much the exact model.

But yes... behold the behemoth... (without wanting to turn this into 'show us your motors')

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A Mk3 Laguna Sport Tourer GT 205...

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Spec is fairly typical GT spec as far as I can tell but tbh it's quite nicely kitted out overall... 4Control, auto lights/wipers, keyless entry/keyless go, dual zone climate, electronic hand brake, cruise control, speed limiter, split tailgate window, no sunroof (less leaks), GT interior, headlamp washers...

A very good friend of mine is as much into his Renaults as I am my MGRover stuff and is always badgering me with suggestions for unusual and interesting Renaults that I should try. Recently he's shown me a few Laguna III Coupes and while I certainly took a shine to them I tried my best to resist. If I was going to try a Laguna it absolutely had to be an estate as I was deperate for one to use for work duties... so of course he went hunting and found this car.

It has a decent stack of paperwork from previous owners, fully stamped service book upto 100k and then plenty of paperwork upto its current mileage of 145k. It is however due a cambelt so I got the seller to reduce the price to cover the cost of a cambelt kit which will be done imminently.

I bought it about 3 weeks ago and since then it's taken me all around the UK for work and also loaded up with the family for a week's holiday to Butlins in Bognor Regis

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(I paid for all that space so I'm going to use it!)

Of course, it's only a cheap car so isn't without its niggles, but nothing that can't be easily fixed in time. It came with crappy Accelera tyres on the rear and they were showing signs of cracking, so knowing I'd be heavily loaded for the Bognor trip and not wanting to risk the safety of me or my family I stuck on a brand new pair of Eagle F1s. The fronts will be done before the MOT in a few months along with some rear springs as the current ones are looking pretty corroded (I am very much pro-preventative maintenance). I've just done an oil change and the cambelt/pumps/tensioners will be done in a few weeks, but other than that everything else is looking pretty good for the time being!

Overally though, I am very impressed by it. It's comfortable, quiet, pretty huge inside and feels plenty quick enough with that engine... and on a run is actually very very good on fuel, well exceeding my expectations;

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I did also know what it was, but thats because I click every ad I see for a Laguna Coupe. Those things are much better looking than they have any right to be!
Sadly most are diseasal powered.
 
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