What have you done to your car today?

I might move it just below the dial cluster in the gap, top mount sticky pad so both mics are aimed directly at me through the gap in the steering wheel. out of view then.

Can't mount if fully on the headlining by the rear view mirror as wind noise and outside noise causes negative things to happen to the noise cancelling part of the mic with the roof down :o

I think it's fine where it is for the time being though.
 
I've done all sorts the past week. Been tidying up wiring in the engine bay, hiding what I can and cleaning things up. Also removed the power steering pump and replaced with an idler pulley, and fitted a Saxo electric pump in the wheel arch all hidden out the way.

Done some wiring dash-side too. Fitted a radio steering wheel interface, wired up my new oil gauge (Just need to fit the sender tomorrow), wired up footwell LEDs, fixed a couple of other little niggles while I was there too.

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I think the footwell lighting looks quite good, I was worried it might look a little chav-tastic but I'm pleased with it.
 
Mrk - That'll be noisy ime. In my E46 i have routed a mic to the headlining, it was a very straightforward task, just tuck the wire into the pillar rubber :)
 
Yea, thats a really bad mic location - either place it at the top of the A pillar (You can route it up the inside of the weatherstrip on the pillar) or stuck it in the OEM location where the reading lights are.
 
I'll have to play around with the mic gain settings on a few drives before I permanently move it to the weather strip or headlining, it didn't seem to like the wind noise before when the roof is down.
 
Tried to change oil today to find the sump nut properly seized. I tried WD40, a socket wrench, nothing works on the little ****er and I don't want to risk ruining the head as I don't have a replacement. Off to the garage tomorrow :/

It all seemed so easy in the manual...
 
Yeah I've had that problem with my sump plug. Ended up rounding it off and then I had the fun of trying to file it down enough to be able to hammer a 12mm socket onto a 13mm nut. I did it eventually though but that sump plug was in a hell of a sorry state after :D Definitely best to go to a garage to get it dealt with before it gets too bad. For me the problem was crap tools I suspect so I've got some better kit now.
 
Fitted a fresh piece of copper brake pipe to replace a pinched and corroded one.

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Don't think it's changed anything with regards to stopping (stopped well before, still stops well) but it should please the MOT tester when I eventually get round to that point.
 
shroomz said:
Tried to change oil today to find the sump nut properly seized. I tried WD40, a socket wrench, nothing works on the little ****er and I don't want to risk ruining the head as I don't have a replacement. Off to the garage tomorrow :/

It all seemed so easy in the manual...
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I've got the opposite problem - drain plug keeps coming a turn undone and oil drips out of the threads. Do it up tight-ish and it lasts about three weeks before it comes loose and starts leaking again!

I'll give up and take it in at some point...
 
shroomz said:
Tried to change oil today to find the sump nut properly seized. I tried WD40, a socket wrench, nothing works on the little ****er and I don't want to risk ruining the head as I don't have a replacement. Off to the garage tomorrow :/

It all seemed so easy in the manual...
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Plusgas not WD40, that should help it shift. WD40 isn't any good at unsticking bolts/nuts etc.

MagicBoy said:
I've got the opposite problem - drain plug keeps coming a turn undone and oil drips out of the threads. Do it up tight-ish and it lasts about three weeks before it comes loose and starts leaking again!

I'll give up and take it in at some point...
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Do you have the crush washer fitted / are you doing it up to the right torque?
 
InvaderGIR said:
Do you have the crush washer fitted / are you doing it up to the right torque?
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Er, dunno. Not pulled it out as then all the oil would go everywhere! There's a limit to what I can do in a public garage on a couple of borrowed axle stands. It's never been serviced outside the dealer network, even though it's ten next year. Yes, done up to the right torque. Looked up the value, borrowed a torque wrench and five minutes of my neighbours time. He builds kit cars so he's a bit handy.

I'll get it properly looked at when it goes in for a service, or I run out of spare VAG special derv oil. Guessing it'll need a new thread cutting so they'll try and fleece me to change the entire sump.
 
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MagicBoy said:
Er, dunno. Not pulled it out as then all the oil would go everywhere! There's a limit to what I can do in a public garage on a couple of borrowed axle stands. It's never been serviced outside the dealer network, even though it's ten next year. Yes, done up to the right torque. Looked up the value, borrowed a torque wrench and five minutes of my neighbours time. He builds kit cars so he's a bit handy.

I'll get it properly looked at when it goes in for a service, or I run out of spare VAG special derv oil. Guessing it'll need a new thread cutting so they'll try and fleece me to change the entire sump.
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It could be stripped thread yeah, in which case a new sump is probably the easiest option, generally they don't cost too much, of course a garage would fleece you for one and fitting. :p

shroomz said:
Thanks, just ordered a can off the rainforest and will give it a shot, judging by the reviews I'm feeling hopeful :)
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It may not help but it's worth a go as it's a proper penetrating fluid so gets in there well. Worst case it doesn't work and you've got a can for any other stuck nuts and bolts you come across another time (be it on the car or in the house).
Is it an actual hex bolt, rather than allen style bolt and are you using a twelve or six sided socket if it's a normal hex bolt? I always prefer to use 6 sided sockets on sumps as it's really not one you want to round, along with a decent length bar or wrench.
 
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