Spent last week in Tuscany. We were based in Florence but did get around a bit. Here is my guide to eating in Florence.
1. Budget Eats - only one place you need to know about and that is the Mercato Centrale. The ground floor is a typical indoor market where you buy local produce from old-fashioned characters. Upstairs, though, there are farmers and chefs cooking up particular examples of their own produce. You can get Chianina (big white local cow variety) burgers, seafood platters (see below), porchetta sandwiches, simple pasta dishes, truffler's salads, local specialities (lampredotto/tripe sandwiches, ribollita/veg and bean soup), the best pizzas, etc. All dishes are less than 10 euors. It's open from 1000-0000. There are beer and wine bars too. Great food at great prices. Must see.
2. Traditional Florentine Trattorias - you know, tables v close together, red and white Gingham tablecloths, owner is a bit too chatty, etc. We tried three (the first at the recommendation of our landlady): Trattoria del Fagioli - Michelin guide place, Trattoria dei Pazzi (no WiFi, only wine), and Trattoria La Maremma. All served home-cooked style dishes (never departing from the trad order of antipasti, primi piatti, secondi piatti, and contorni) from the Tuscan classics such as Bistecca Fiorentina (a huge T-bone cooked blue), Tuscan crostini with chicken liver parfait, ravioli with ricotta and pear, gnocchi alla gorgonzola, spaghetti alle vongole (clam pasta), truffled pasta, plain grilled fish, beef in pork fat, and so on. Never more than five or six ingredients but always with simple and bold flavours. Delicious. Expect to pay 100 euros for two including wine. Highly recommended.
3. Modern fine dining - we went to two quite different places. One is recommended in the Michelin guide, the Osteria Personale, and the other with three Italy Best Food Stars. AT OP we had a five course taster with three wines at 75 euros each. The food was great but the service let everything down. We had the 2130 slot and they were rushing us along all the way. It felt like they didn't want us. Anyway, the food was quite challenging at the start with some cold dishes:
Red pepper sorbet:
Pea ice cream, smoked herring cream, apple and mint:
Scallops with friggoletto peppers, salted codfish cream and liquorice:
Spaghetti with three tomato (sun dried, confit, smoked) sauce:
Pork fillet with roasted corn cream, spring onion, olives, and coffee:
Her dessert was salted popcorn ice cream with toffee, smoked tea crumble, and darck choc ganache:
And mine, coconut foam, lime sorbet, cardamom meringue, and peanut butter:
They prolly overused the smoking of ingredients (not too strong, but too often).
The next place, Enoteca Fiorentina, was a three course taster with cheese and four wines. The service was amazing and the food sublime. Surely a contender for a michelin star. Set in a deli-come-wine shop- come restaurant.
Scallops with pea and mint puree and a bottarga (smoked and dried mullet roe) butter sauce:
Sepia pasta spiced gently with prawn and pistachio crumb:
Octopus on chick pea puree:
The cheese (all italian, though they have English, French, etc):
The wines were all organic or biodynamic and superbly matched. A bit more expenny here at 250 euros for two peeps. Must try.
4. French market - don't know if it was temporary but we enjoyed the vittels:
There you go... and I haven't mentioned the Chianti wine trip on vespas nor the truffle hunting in San Miniato.