The Man Behind the Curtain was an explosion of art meets food. In the restaurant no opportunities to use fine art are missed, see the Ducati in the reception, or the shoes on the doors (apparently) denoting lavatory genders. It is quite a dark restaurant but there is plenty of space because they don't overfill it:
Had a Kumquat and Cardamom Gin with some deliciously juicy hand-massaged octopus while waiting for our table:
At the table we got our amuse-bouches quite quickly. The Veal Sweetbread XO slider was the best, followed by the bilberry thingummy, and the mackerel bit was just plain old tasty:
The Wagyu beef starter with olives and beef fat sheets was incomparable. I was stunned into a series of appreciative, vaguely sexual groans:
Then we were into the fish, which started with raw langoustines in mussel consomme and basil oil. This was a demostration of the lightest of touches. As with all the dishes the flavours were distinct and complimentary without being overpowering:
Then we had Michael O'Hare's take on Ackee with Saltfish. It's a tasty dish but probably the worst of an amazing bunch:
The last fish dish was his signature Emanciption dish from GBM. This dish is a stunner. I don't have the vocabulary to do it justice. Wow.
Then we had the meat main, which was Iberico Pork with Smoked Egg and Olive Shards. Yet another incredible dish. The textures and flavours are sublime. Truly exceptional.
The first pud was coconut and lemon grass soup with chilli sorbet. It tasted like a sweet thai green chilli and the kaffir lime cleaned the palate nicely. The missus thought this was the worst dish:
The second pud was another plate of manna from heaven, Chocolate, honey, and violet. I was worried the violet would ruin the plate but it was just a subtle background harmony. The puffed rice brought crunch. Outstanding:
The coffee was served with a Passion Fruit petit-four and a lemon and chocolate doughnut:
The beef and olive starter, Emancipation, the Iberico Pork main, and the Chocolate with Violet and Honey pud are all perfect dishes in my opinion. Ten out of ten all round.
In summary, it's a very cool place that isn't stuffy or up itself. It is, however, ostentatious and artsy. The food swings between subtle and sublime but everything is really delish. The service was excellent (all the staff were about twelve) and the new sommelier had some great wine pairings, even if he was a little obsessed with Spain.
Highly recommended (the missus said it was cheaper than Rogan & Co and Martin Wishart).
Afterwards we went to this achingly cool jazz bar called The Domino Club. I hate jazz but the cocktails were outstanding.
(Never worked in a kitchen but I imagine this is why they insist on set menus for large groups).
