Hazro - Any Update?

whats your black point reading mrk? can you get from the LaCie report or elsewhere please?

According to ColourEyes the reading is:

blackpoint.jpg


Calibrated dE is 0.38 average.

My OSD brightness/contrast is 50/56 and RGB values were pre-adjusted to 85/85/85 for a comfortable brightness then calibrated in ColoEyes afterwards to get D65 @ 82/85/78
 
ps, just had the HZ26Wi delivered....the screen isn't glossy on this one?! odd

just checked, and their website (now updated) says "Hard coating(2H), Glare(Low Reflection treatment of the front polarizer)" for the HW24Zi but says "Hard coating(3H), Anti-glare treatment of the front polarizer" for the HZ26Wi
 
0.798 cd/m² is very high for the black point. But, the white point is very high too, so could you please tested with a decent white point (like 200 cd/m² or 150 cd/m²)?
 
That would mean I'd need to recalibrate again as I've currently got it set up quite nicely. When I last tried to get 130-150cd/m2 I had to drop the brightness to almost 0 which then resulted in a very bad overall brightness even after calibration.

This is working perfectly in everything even if the figures seem high, visually it is not in movies, games, desktop!
 
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odd, perhaps some overlay settings kicking in during movies as well? you should be able to calibrate without changing any OSD settings really, even if you left the brightness control where it is. no matter, was just interested
 
Hmm, the only OSD settings I change are the RGB values to get 6500K as the preset 6500k is nowhere near 6500K (the same goes for most monitors from my understanding!) so adjusting the RGB values to give proper 6500K/D65 with brightness settings comfortable to you was what I read about being the best way to calibrate and let *** software do the rest on the gfx card LUT front!

I use FFDShow BTW for decoding everything Video wise (no post processing enabled, just RAW video support)
 
in theory you dont really need to change any OSD at all, if you run through the automated stages of the LaCie software (skipping the brightness, contrast and RGB sections) you can still get very good results. just make sure you set the target values before hand so it's aiming for 120 cd/m2 (or whatever) rather than "maximum"
 
in theory you dont really need to change any OSD at all, if you run through the automated stages of the LaCie software (skipping the brightness, contrast and RGB sections) you can still get very good results. just make sure you set the target values before hand so it's aiming for 120 cd/m2 (or whatever) rather than "maximum"

Ahhh I see. I don't have a copy of BlueEye Pro software though this is where the issue lies! I contacted Lacie by email and they failed to respond after 2 weeks so gave up and their site has no demo version which is a shame as I
it's supposed to be the best software to calibrate with so I'd have been able to see if ColorEyes is just as good at the end result or not :/
 
give the Eye Match software from X-rite a try too, that offers some good results. There's also a trial ver of the BasICColor software available i believe, which is good for measuring black depth etc

ps, just testing the HZ26Wi now, and black depth is 0.68 cd/m2 at default settings, and only improved to 0.65 cd/m2 after calibration :( not particularly great on that front, but looking good in other areas for sure!! :) note that that was with a range in luminance from 528 cd/m2 at default, down to 120 cd/m2 once calibrated
 
Ok Re-calibrated again but this time set black point for "min" as opposed to *** default "max" and got:

blackpoint2.jpg


If I set it to 120cd/m2 then the end result is very bad (looks like it lacks contrast x100 !)

I'm almost certain it's the way Vista handles colour calibration possibly.

Still, luminance aside, the colour accuracy has improved to dE: 0.33 average (max 0.66)
 
A lot has been said about the new Hazro so far, but I haven't seen anybody test it with SD material over component input, yet. Could someone with a 24" model (which is what I'm looking to get) please try the following setups:

1) PAL DVD video (720x568) over component, with 4:3 and anamorphic widescreen (16:9, 2.35:1 or 2.45:1) aspect ratios (note: it's important that your DVD player doesn't scale the image to 1080i or anything, it needs to come through as standard definition)
2) Game console input through component, maybe with a Wii or a PS2, again both 4:3 and 16:9 would be good.

The questions that I have are:

a) For 4:3 SD material, is the image properly scaled to fill the vertical dimension, but NOT stretched horizontally to a wide ratio (16:9 or 16:10)? Is there a setting in the OSD that needs to be activated for this to happen?

b) For anamorphic widescreen material, is the image displayed correctly, i.e. horizontally stretched to 16:9 instead of staying "compressed" at 4:3? (Note: if it's stretched to 16:10, it's deformed - there should be black bars on the top and bottom with both 16:9 and 2.35:1 material)

c) Is there any sort of overscan in any situation?

d) In case you have a Wii or PS2 (or the original Xbox) that you can actually play with the monitor, how would you characterize the input lag? There is some scaling involved, after all.

e) Any other notable defects in the image?

In all other usage scenarios relevant to me, the Hazro looks very good judging by the comments. I couldn't really care less about all the decimal-accuracy measurements that overflow this thread. Instead, my buying decision depends on what the results are for SD material over component, so if anyone could please run the tests I've described here, I'd be eternally grateful.
 
Ok Re-calibrated again but this time set black point for "min" as opposed to *** default "max" and got:

If I set it to 120cd/m2 then the end result is very bad (looks like it lacks contrast x100 !)

I'm almost certain it's the way Vista handles colour calibration possibly.

Still, luminance aside, the colour accuracy has improved to dE: 0.33 average (max 0.66)

yeah, these screens cant seem to produce any better blacks even when luminance is turned right down. see my note about the HZ26Wi, if you get luminance down then black depth doesnt really improve and you lose contrast. It's a juggling act between a decent contrast and a useable brightness really
 
yeah, these screens cant seem to produce any better blacks even when luminance is turned right down. see my note about the HZ26Wi, if you get luminance down then black depth doesnt really improve and you lose contrast. It's a juggling act between a decent contrast and a useable brightness really


Sorry for my N00B question but does that mean that the OSD brightness control doesn't dimm backlight ?
 
I've got access to a calibrator from work. It comes in a suitcase type thing, it's called a Gretag Macbeth, it comes with Eye-One Match software, would this be any good for the Hazro?
 
brightness and backlight are 2 different things, some screens have individual controls whilst others only have brightness.

The NEX Professional ones have a backlight control but you never need to touch anything in the OSD as the software does everything in the monitor via DDC/CI
 
brightness and backlight are 2 different things, some screens have individual controls whilst others only have brightness.

The NEX Professional ones have a backlight control but you never need to touch anything in the OSD as the software does everything in the monitor via DDC/CI

Not really, IIRC, on a CRT the brightness controlled something else, however, on an LCD the brightness typically controls how dim the backlight is. Some monitors "fake" it (like the OcUK value for instance) by using pixel blocking, and hence have poorer black levels (as a small portion of visible light will still leak through a black pixel).
 
I've just got my 24" one now and well apart from being excessively bright i'm impressed

Colours are amazing compared to a 22" TN panel but something is wrong with the black levels I reckon, the backlight is just soooo bright

I've set it to 30% brightness in the OSD as well

Any ideas?

sid
 
Some monitors "fake" it (like the OcUK value for instance) by using pixel blocking, and hence have poorer black levels (as a small portion of visible light will still leak through a black pixel).

Exactly what I'm afraid off. Couldn't stand the brightness of my OcUk Value 24". Sold it after a week :o

I've just got my 24" one now and well apart from being excessively bright i'm impressed

Colours are amazing compared to a 22" TN panel but something is wrong with the black levels I reckon, the backlight is just soooo bright

I've set it to 30% brightness in the OSD as well

Any ideas?

Doesn't reducing brightness improve blacklevel ?
 
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