Hazro - Any Update?
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Associate
- Joined
- 24 Jul 2005
- Posts
- 484
I am one of the few who seemed to get a very good unit first time round with my 26Wi. I had no real backlight issues, the image is great, no snow. I just have some slight banding on the checkemon test, which in practice doesn't seem to be evident. I might send it in just for the sake of getting the gradient issue totally fixed as I'd rather have something I know is working as intended. It isn't something that has bothered me so far though. So as of yet, no this is still the initial firmware 26Wi.
Man of Honour
which black test results were those the HL2 ones? I had a big directory shift recently 
Man of Honour
That's the last run I did and won't be doing another until I get the screen back from Hazro!
I don't have the coloreyes results screenshots anymore though - ditched them for blueyepro.
That's the last run I did and won't be doing another until I get the screen back from Hazro!
I don't have the coloreyes results screenshots anymore though - ditched them for blueyepro.
Thanks for posting that, but does it not give you black level (IIRC you managed to get it down to 0.62) ?
Man of Honour
Hi mate 0.58 is what I normally get, I just did a test and report in Lacie BEP and got 0.60 - this would be due to not calibrating in over a month and the panel settling in after some minor changes being made to OSD and gfx card drivers since my last calibration but still you get the idea
Test report: http://robbiekhan.co.uk/root/temp/Report.pdf
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Man of Honour
I've adjusted RGB to my chosen desired values and ifnd 120 to be way too dark
Associate
- Joined
- 16 Sep 2008
- Posts
- 52
I had no idea - I thought that Dell's had -HC at the end of their name if they were wide gamut.
Anyway - that sealed it, I ordered the Hazro again yesterday. I've also got a DTP94 probe and Monaco Optix software for calibration, so looking forward to trying it all out.
It'll probably arrive on Monday, but I'm not expecting it to be the new firmware version. I can't see Hazro being that quick with the OC stock, when they're clearly snowed under with customer screens.
Associate
Think I'm going to try hardware calibration, I can see some weird things happening on this particular one I have(like having to set reds down by 10 compared to greens and blue in the OSD). I guess if I'm not happy with blacks and accurate colours, a hardware calibrator would be worth the money (and I have like 6 monitors I can use it on!) What's a good calibrator I can buy which will give me detailed enough information (like black deltas) without breaking the bank too hard?
Associate
- Joined
- 16 Sep 2008
- Posts
- 52
I bought a Monaco Optix XR, for £57 delivered which comes with the well regarded DTP94 probe on clearance from Ebay - the seller still shows having 13 in stock and it came next day.
Otherwise people seem to go with the X-rite Eye-One Display 2 or X-rite Eye-One Display LT models.
There's a review of a few on www.tftcentral.co.uk
Otherwise people seem to go with the X-rite Eye-One Display 2 or X-rite Eye-One Display LT models.
There's a review of a few on www.tftcentral.co.uk
Associate
I just spoke to OCUK customer service and my monitor was supposed to be delivered today but it's delayed till monday as they were waiting for the upgraded firmware versions to be returned from Hazro, so looks like we'll get the updated ones! fingers crossed!
Man of Honour
Man of Honour
Calibration for Dummies (you asked for it, LOL!)
There are 2 few things you will need before you can calibrate your screen;
• Colorimeter
• Calibration software (the bundled software is usually OK but something like ColorEyes or Lacie BlueEye Pro have better reporting and consistency.
First things first, we need to get the monitor reset to factory defaults then adjust the backlight brightness to a comfortable level. On the Hazro HZ24Wi there is no independent backlight control only Brightness/Contrast and RGB controls.
I’ll use Lacie BlueEye Pro in my examples as that’s what I’ve been using but they’re all pretty much the same for the calibration process and settings that need changing.
You will probably want to leave the Brightness and Contrast controls alone and only adjust the RGB values from the default 95,95,95 to something around 65,65,65 (my settings) – this will keep brightness and contrast details at their defaults but the luminance will have dropped somewhat from around 400cd/m2 to 200-220 depending on the values you choose as your most comfortable without being too dark or bright.
You don’t “need” to aim for 120cd/m2 because this value is just an guide value. Different room lighting levels will mean a different value will be aimed for by different people depending on what luminance they find comfortable. For me 200-210 (RGB values 65 each) is very nice in my room (I have 5000k energy saving bulbs uplit for room lighting).
It’s worth noting luminance won’t affect colour accuracy, it’s just the brightness of the LCD in relation to comfort to you eyes etc. because not many screens have onboard LUT adjustments I found that adjusting the LUT on the gfx card by dropping the luminance to 120cd/m2 for example (as a target) especially on Vista you got odd behavior such as the mouse cursor being abnormally brght in front of the dimly lit background surrounding – I believe this to be the way Vista renders the desktop and windows via the desktop composition. This happened on all calibration software I used.
So with the “comfortable” settings out of the way you can load up and connect the calibration device/software.
Change the settings to aim for to 6500K (D65) colour (normal daylight), Gamma 2.2 (standard Windows gamma value) or Gamma *L (only on ColorEyes) and for the luminance leave this on Max if available (else it will adjust this in the gfx card LUT and take away your previously set comfort level).
When asked to choose a profile method you’ll have some options such as matrix, LUT 8bit and LUT 16bit. Stick to Matrix, it tends to give smoother gradients.
When initial settings are set move onto calibration.
During calibration you might get asked to adjust brightness and contrast where you will be presented with a bar that shows optimum levels (pre-calibration) and you simply adjust the OSD brightness/contrast until the bar is in the middle. You “can” skip these 2 steps or you can do them – try both and see what results work best for your lighting and eyes.
After the above bit is done the software will do the rest, it will switch through various colour shades adjusting and measuring as it goes along.
In BlueEye pro you can run a “Test and report” Before and after calibration to see the changes. In EyeOne Match 3 (software that comes with the EyeOne Display2) you get a button to show before and after results.
The results in either should give you an average dE value – you want to be seeing values of below 1.0 max (not highly essential for this though desirable) and around 0.3-0.8 average (this is most important).Lacie say an average dE of below 1.0 is exceptional colour accuracy which is what we’re after
Save the profile using a suitable name and that’s it. You’ll see the profile as the default now in display properties colour management tab (colour management window in vista)
-
IMPORTANT!
In Vista you will get times when the adjusted LUT settings are dropped. This is apparently a GFX card driver bug for both nVidia and ATI cards. I have experienced this regularly on both cards and it only happens during 2 occasions.
1: The LUT adjustment loads at Windows boot time but a second later drops out of adjusted LUT to default LUT (you can see this happening)
Solution = to browse the startup folder in the start menu and manually click the LUT loader.
2: The LUT adjustments get dropped when you load the gfx card’s control panel for the first time after logging into Windows (ATI CCC prime example)
Solution = same as above.
I just created a shortcut to the LUT loader in the Quicklaunch toolbar for easy launching.
Hope that helps!
There are 2 few things you will need before you can calibrate your screen;
• Colorimeter
• Calibration software (the bundled software is usually OK but something like ColorEyes or Lacie BlueEye Pro have better reporting and consistency.
First things first, we need to get the monitor reset to factory defaults then adjust the backlight brightness to a comfortable level. On the Hazro HZ24Wi there is no independent backlight control only Brightness/Contrast and RGB controls.
I’ll use Lacie BlueEye Pro in my examples as that’s what I’ve been using but they’re all pretty much the same for the calibration process and settings that need changing.
You will probably want to leave the Brightness and Contrast controls alone and only adjust the RGB values from the default 95,95,95 to something around 65,65,65 (my settings) – this will keep brightness and contrast details at their defaults but the luminance will have dropped somewhat from around 400cd/m2 to 200-220 depending on the values you choose as your most comfortable without being too dark or bright.
You don’t “need” to aim for 120cd/m2 because this value is just an guide value. Different room lighting levels will mean a different value will be aimed for by different people depending on what luminance they find comfortable. For me 200-210 (RGB values 65 each) is very nice in my room (I have 5000k energy saving bulbs uplit for room lighting).
It’s worth noting luminance won’t affect colour accuracy, it’s just the brightness of the LCD in relation to comfort to you eyes etc. because not many screens have onboard LUT adjustments I found that adjusting the LUT on the gfx card by dropping the luminance to 120cd/m2 for example (as a target) especially on Vista you got odd behavior such as the mouse cursor being abnormally brght in front of the dimly lit background surrounding – I believe this to be the way Vista renders the desktop and windows via the desktop composition. This happened on all calibration software I used.
So with the “comfortable” settings out of the way you can load up and connect the calibration device/software.
Change the settings to aim for to 6500K (D65) colour (normal daylight), Gamma 2.2 (standard Windows gamma value) or Gamma *L (only on ColorEyes) and for the luminance leave this on Max if available (else it will adjust this in the gfx card LUT and take away your previously set comfort level).
When asked to choose a profile method you’ll have some options such as matrix, LUT 8bit and LUT 16bit. Stick to Matrix, it tends to give smoother gradients.
When initial settings are set move onto calibration.
During calibration you might get asked to adjust brightness and contrast where you will be presented with a bar that shows optimum levels (pre-calibration) and you simply adjust the OSD brightness/contrast until the bar is in the middle. You “can” skip these 2 steps or you can do them – try both and see what results work best for your lighting and eyes.
After the above bit is done the software will do the rest, it will switch through various colour shades adjusting and measuring as it goes along.
In BlueEye pro you can run a “Test and report” Before and after calibration to see the changes. In EyeOne Match 3 (software that comes with the EyeOne Display2) you get a button to show before and after results.
The results in either should give you an average dE value – you want to be seeing values of below 1.0 max (not highly essential for this though desirable) and around 0.3-0.8 average (this is most important).Lacie say an average dE of below 1.0 is exceptional colour accuracy which is what we’re after
Save the profile using a suitable name and that’s it. You’ll see the profile as the default now in display properties colour management tab (colour management window in vista)
-
IMPORTANT!
In Vista you will get times when the adjusted LUT settings are dropped. This is apparently a GFX card driver bug for both nVidia and ATI cards. I have experienced this regularly on both cards and it only happens during 2 occasions.
1: The LUT adjustment loads at Windows boot time but a second later drops out of adjusted LUT to default LUT (you can see this happening)
Solution = to browse the startup folder in the start menu and manually click the LUT loader.
2: The LUT adjustments get dropped when you load the gfx card’s control panel for the first time after logging into Windows (ATI CCC prime example)
Solution = same as above.
I just created a shortcut to the LUT loader in the Quicklaunch toolbar for easy launching.
Hope that helps!
Last edited: