Samsung Odyssey 49" OLED G9 G95SC

Coolasmoo said:
It's not the monitors it's the idle power draw of the Graphics card.

Download CPUID or similar and you will see this.
Click to expand...
Yep, I have been checking that but my power draw and temp are well below the limit required for the fan-stop to turn off which Zotac stated:

How can I enable/disable fan-stop on certain graphics card models? | ZOTAC

<p>The FREEZE fan stop is a feature available only on certain models. Look for the label or FREEZE badge on the packaging of the graphics card or on the product page or product brochure.</p> <p>The FREEZE fan stop feature is automated and is enabled out of the box. There is no user interaction...
www.zotac.com www.zotac.com

"We checked on the specifics for the fan stop
GPU temperature >= 55C OR GPU loading >= 120W, than fan ON
GPU temperature < 55C AND GPU loading < 120W, than fan OFF"

And I am well below those numbers on both.

Currently idling at 120hz = 39 deg and 24W, fan is off.. if I change to 240Hz those dont change drastically and are still below limit, but the fan will not return to stop after load until I change the Hz. Same issue happened with this card on 2 monitors now but not on my old 3440x1440.
Its not an issue specific to the G9, but I am looking for 4090 suggestions where this is not an issue with this monitor. cheers
 
Ezah said:
Yep, I have been checking that but my power draw and temp are well below the limit required for the fan-stop to turn off which Zotac stated:

How can I enable/disable fan-stop on certain graphics card models? | ZOTAC

<p>The FREEZE fan stop is a feature available only on certain models. Look for the label or FREEZE badge on the packaging of the graphics card or on the product page or product brochure.</p> <p>The FREEZE fan stop feature is automated and is enabled out of the box. There is no user interaction...
www.zotac.com www.zotac.com

"We checked on the specifics for the fan stop
GPU temperature >= 55C OR GPU loading >= 120W, than fan ON
GPU temperature < 55C AND GPU loading < 120W, than fan OFF"

And I am well below those numbers on both.

Currently idling at 120hz = 39 deg and 24W, fan is off.. if I change to 240Hz those dont change drastically and are still below limit, but the fan will not return to stop after load until I change the Hz. Same issue happened with this card on 2 monitors now but not on my old 3440x1440.
Its not an issue specific to the G9, but I am looking for 4090 suggestions where this is not an issue with this monitor. cheers
Click to expand...
 
Took an update earlier. It auto updated itself when I powered on, and said ‘updating firmware’. I was on 1405, and so I checked after it had completed and I was still on 1405. Not sure what happened? It deffo updated tho.
 
All I can think is the base OS that hosts the monitor software updated. But only because of the language used, firmware vs software update/version…

Nothing I can see different.
 
just got this monitor wow its amazing I have the center of the screen at eye level what distance do you guys suggest for the best immersion my monitor is on a adjustable desk stand.
 
This is the best and worst monitor i have owned.

The black screening is awful and i think im going to return it.

It happens every time i want to close The First Descendant Game, Does it whenever i click on something within Razer Synapse. Only way to recover it is unplugging and then plugging back in.

Never had this issue on any other monitor, its also on 1405 firmware.
 
This problem is worse on all games made in unreal engine.
Try to solve it like this (it works for me on Tekken 8 and Descendant)
Nvidia control panel (if you have an Nvidia card obviously, otherwise look to see if AMD has something similar) and set in the specific game tab to power management mode - prefer maximum performance -
It seems that the defect is more pronounced the more the GPU has spikes and dips in power.
For my part, after having fiddled around a bit in the service with the max lux modification from 96 to 138 (96 is only good with hdr400 but hdr 400 is really VERY poor in play, so much so that you often have evident problems of crazy clipping on the highlights or even worse are adjustments in games that don't work at all (re4, forza horizon 5 etc etc)
I also fixed something in the settings of the monitor with probe (in HDR I lowered the contrast from 50 at home to 48 to ensure that with the high peak brightness the color shades did not present obvious steps which unfortunately they do if left at home.
I also used colorcontrol to be able to quickly access the service and enable Nvidia dither which gave a BIG hand in this sense.
I also noticed that the EOTF curve that Samsung uses is too open to low temperatures and I proceeded to lower it with -1, bringing everything back to an optimal situation.
Furthermore, for games the rec2020 color space must be set manually by setting CUSTOM in color space and then rec2020 and not used natively because it does not produce the same result (maybe you already knew it but Samsung has this flaw in both the monitors and the TVs it produces )
I have to say that now the monitor performs REALLY well and I'm quite satisfied, net of the problems it brings with it due to quite buggy software that other models don't have.
Unfortunately it is the only one at 240Hz and it is the only one that to my taste is really aesthetically beautiful.
Soon it will be joined again by an LG G4 where I will move to play when the form factor is not a discriminating factor.
 
Interesting. Got another firmware update afterward and also notice that the annoying popup (that can be disabled in service menu) has moved. It’s now called game_bar.auto_launch_support_type.

If you have the service remote press info, then factory and navigate through. Changing the value to the ‘not supported’ option of the three available under Engineer or MRT option.

No differences noticed yet!
 
Picked one of these up recently at a bargain price.
Thought it was DOA as it refused to power up but thankfully it was just the DC adapter; managed to prove with a digital multi-meter that it was overvolting and very variable.

Thankfully Samsung support sorted me out with a replacement and got me up and running, from personal experience I would advise avoiding their web chat; they wanted to replace the whole monitor which is aggro i didn't need. Samsung telephone support were superb.

Coming from two 27" IPS 1440p ROG monitors it has certainly taken some getting used to.
I'll be honest though when not gaming, I do often find myself running the monitors in multi view mode with DP and HDMI inputs simulating 2x 2560 x 1440 res just without the bezel. I have noticed this messes with the colours somewhat; I've yet to experiment much with the settings but there appears to be lots of config options available.
I'm not overly convinced by the Samsung TV smart tv type interface, i don't feel its entirely necessary. Also a bit odd that not all the apps can be split.

It's given me an excuse to treat myself to a 5000 series cards when announced later in the year mind.. as expected doubling the pixel count has dropped frame rates somewhat.
 
They may have updated the firmware but the usual problems are exactly where they were before.The black screens are always there and the monitor still doesn't ask me to clean it (but does it exist? Does this refresh do it? Meh)Since I've had him, he's only asked me once.
 
This monitor has now been relegated to my number 2. Using it on my second PC, I just could never get on with it. Maybes its just too big for me and all the black screen problems ive had with it. When its working its good. And I do enjoy using it half and half one side youtube and browsing and the other for windows and stuff. Ive ordered the Alienware AW3225QF im looking forward to 2160p in 16:9 ar @ 240HZ. I dont really regret buying this but i suppose if i had the choice again I wouldnt. Anyway it makes a nice number 2. IN meantime im using an LG Ultragear 32GK650F-B" 144hz 1440p monitor on my number 1.
 
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I use the Amazon basics premium wall mount arm, and even that requires a washer (a 10p coin might work) under the tilt mechanism to stop it drooping. Once in, I haven’t worried about it dropping out, the weight holds it in nicely but cable ties or glue can be used. That would be the cheapest method and it’s easy to do - I do exactly the same as you intend and it’s excellent.

EDIT - it’s been a while since I bought that thing and I don’t see it available. It’s a copy of this thing made by Ergotron, but this cost more. However, with the HD tilt pivot accessory (more money) it won’t need any washers like mine.

Heavy Duty Wall Mounted Monitor Arm | Ergotron HX Wall Mount

Choose a monitor arm that’s as adaptable as you. With the HX Wall Monitor Arm, you can reposition large monitors weighing up to 42 lbs (19.1 kg) while still enhancing your workspace with a sleek design.
www.ergotron.com www.ergotron.com
 
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Amazon Basics is a rebarnd of Ergotron LX, which is less rigit than HX.
Really there is no point in going anything other than Ergotron HX - this is the only arm that handles G9 correctly. Everything else will have drawbacks.
 
Amazon basics arm is strong enoogh, so that would imply the LX is too. Needs the HD pivot (98-540-216) to avoid popping a washer underneath to limit the droop tho (assuming it fits, looks like it should)
 
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