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The RX Vega 64 Owners Thread

Did some more OC (tl;dr waste of time mostly):

Again for Time spy as above

1622/1150, 1727/1200, 945/1000, 100% Fan Speed, [HWinfo readings] Max Temps GPU 55/HBM 58/Hot Spot 75, VDDC 1.150v/ MVDDC 1.356V, Core 216w/Memory 13.56w/Chip 354w - 26.81 fps
Ibid, 1100/1000 HBM, Max temps 59/62/82, 1.144v/1.356v, 223w/17.29w/359w - 27.91 fps

Unfortunately while it could loop time spy graphics test 1 for ages, it wasn't stable in-game, as I crashed as soon as I booted The Division. So, on to that, that game's benchmark:

HBM always state 3 locked as min/max, 100% fan speed unless otherwise changed
1602/1702 Core, 1620ish real avg; 51.6 fps avg / 26% CPU / 0% GPU
-50mv P6 & P7, 1650ish real avg, 55ish C avg; 52.3 / 27% / 0%
-50mv again P6/P7, 1630ish real avg, 52ish C avg, 290-300w; 52.2 / 27% / 0%
-50mv again, 1607ish real avg, 50ish C avg, 260ish w; 51.4 / 27% / 0%
1552/1000, 1657/1050, 1100/1000 HBM, Stock fan - 1570ish avg, 60c, 260w; 50.5 / 25% / 0%
Lock P7 above to min - but same results
P7 min/max 1687/1100, 1100/1000 HBM - 1620ish real clocks avg, 1500 RPM avg, 65ish C, 300w - 51.5 / 27% / 0%

Not sure how stable 1100mhz on HBM really is in general, but I suspect not too much, at least from Odyssey gameplay which eventually crashes, but in The Division it runs without issues so far. Meh, no big difference either way for 50mhz.
 
Did the Morpheus II mod for my Vega 64 but wasn't too happy with the VRM temperatures. They were getting over 100C when running stress tests or extended gaming sessions. The little heatsinks weren't cutting it so I decided to cut up the stock front plate and do that mod.

Took about 30 minutes with the Dremel, and a lot of store brand cutting discs breaking but I got a relatively clean cut. VRM temps now only get to about 90C at most after running stress tests. I could probably get it lower if I changed the thermal pads on the front plate but at this point I don't want to open up the whole thing again. Card also definitely feels more rigid with the stock front plate and back plate on now.

Only issue now is that the coil whine has somehow got even louder after doing the front plate mod. Before it wasn't too audible but now i can hear it buzzing from across the room when the card is under load.
 
How do I keep my custom wattman settings from going back to default all the time please. I have to load a saved profile each time I reboot my PC which is a pain

Many Thanks

Do you switch the PC off at the wall at night? If so that will reset the profile, has AMD store the profile inside the Windows Fast boot. The reason is for fast fail safe measures.
 
Didn't know that, useful info thanks :)
Don't see how what shankly has said is true to be honest. I switch my PC off at the wall and it doesn't forget my settings. His reason why doesn't make any sense either. All fast boot does is store the windows kernel data into a hibernation file and then loads that image into RAM when you boot up so it's quickly ready for you, turning it off at the wall makes no difference, the only way turning it off at the wall would matter is if you were putting the machine to sleep rather than shutting it down.

It shouldn't be forgetting your settings, the only time mine ever has is it if crashed previously and then it will give me a pop-up message saying it has reverted to defaults.
 
Don't see how what shankly has said is true to be honest. I switch my PC off at the wall and it doesn't forget my settings. His reason why doesn't make any sense either. All fast boot does is store the windows kernel data into a hibernation file and then loads that image into RAM when you boot up so it's quickly ready for you, turning it off at the wall makes no difference, the only way turning it off at the wall would matter is if you were putting the machine to sleep rather than shutting it down.

It shouldn't be forgetting your settings, the only time mine ever has is it if crashed previously and then it will give me a pop-up message saying it has reverted to defaults.

On my Asus motherboards I get A0 on the board LED if it doesn't read from fast boot. If it reads from fastboot I get 40 on the board.

If it reads A0 after a switch off my profile will be reset. Make of that if you will.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&sou...aw3vZCllITNBH8GwyaZ2faXZ&ust=1551302148308119
This confirms my experience
 
On my Asus motherboards I get A0 on the board LED if it doesn't read from fast boot. If it reads from fastboot I get 40 on the board.

If it reads A0 after a switch off my profile will be reset. Make of that if you will.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwj735b9qNrgAhW8AmMBHcg5Cu8QzPwBegQIARAC&url=https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/7e0w6w/psa_if_you_are_losing_wattman_settings_on_windows/&psig=AOvVaw3vZCllITNBH8GwyaZ2faXZ&ust=1551302148308119
This confirms my experience

That's really strange, I've got an Asus motherboard as well. Does it also lose the settings if you put the device into Hibernate instead of shutting down without fast boot?
 
Still seem to be getting crashes after the computer has been idle for a long time. The screen goes into power save mode after being inactive for a while and sometimes it doesn't wake again. When I boot back up I get the "settings have been reset" message.
 
Wattman resets itself if the settings aren't stable or the PC didn't shut down properly.

It used to just crash windows like other overclocking tools, but in recent versions it seems to handle it better.
 
Did the Morpheus II mod for my Vega 64 but wasn't too happy with the VRM temperatures. They were getting over 100C when running stress tests or extended gaming sessions. The little heatsinks weren't cutting it so I decided to cut up the stock front plate and do that mod.

Took about 30 minutes with the Dremel, and a lot of store brand cutting discs breaking but I got a relatively clean cut. VRM temps now only get to about 90C at most after running stress tests. I could probably get it lower if I changed the thermal pads on the front plate but at this point I don't want to open up the whole thing again. Card also definitely feels more rigid with the stock front plate and back plate on now.

Only issue now is that the coil whine has somehow got even louder after doing the front plate mod. Before it wasn't too audible but now i can hear it buzzing from across the room when the card is under load.
Did you do it to he reference 64 card? Any pics, or links how to do the mod?
 
Did you do it to he reference 64 card? Any pics, or links how to do the mod?

Sadly I didn't take any pics but I used some guides I found on Reddit. There are some pictures a person posted of their mod they did to their Vega 56 although this person didn't add the backplate

https://imgur.com/gallery/2JVRt

First, after taking the reference cooler apart you basically want to cut the curved bit where the reference blower fan sits in order to make clearance for the Morpheus heatsink. I found this picture and drew red lines where you have to make the cuts (for the curved bit you have to cut all the way around). I cut mine so that it would be flush with the lip of the front plate. Best tool would be something like a Dremel or similar Rotary tool with some good quality cutting discs. If you are planning on reusing the stock heat pads then I would suggest placing some painters tape over them so that the metal dust doesn't get stuck to them.

V24mtgR.jpg


Second, you have to enlarge the four holes on the stock front plate so that the mounting standoffs on the Morpheus will pass through the front plate.


If you wish to reuse the stock backplate you will have to reuse the stock X bracket as the Morpheus X bracket won't fit in the stock backplate. Take the screws out of the stock X bracket and use the spring screws from the Morpheus to screw in the stock X bracket to the cooler. Just be very careful with the pressure as you don't want to crack your GPU die, though the screws should stop. Use the cross pattern when tightening.

I added some thermal pads to certain chips on the back of the card so that they would make contact with the backplate. There was a thermal image of a card that showed six spots on the back that got really hot and I put thermal pads on those (the six yellow spots on the back of the PCB shown below).

1uG2kqG.jpg
 
so are you guys saying you don't shut down pc but just turn it of at the wall ? ..that's mad .. could lead to all sorts of driver error or corruption ?
Myself I dont do this.After shutting down properly I unplug the system from the wall since it will still draw some power and me living in South Africa I literally have to save every watt of power since electricity is a scarce and expensive comodity.
 
Late to the party, in fact so late, everyone that was hammered is sobering up and people are stumbling their way out the door. Anyway, here I am....

X7u4xWJ.jpg

Now for some tinkering!


Welcome and on TROH.:)


The Roll of Honour.

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